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> Fix a six, Like Neil Young says...rust is an insomniac
wachospeedo
post Jun 10 2012, 07:10 PM
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New to the board. Most of my work and experience is over on Pelican with 911 longhoods. I stalked a local PCA guy who was going to eventually sell his 914-6. No pressure, just every few months I let him know I hadn't forgotten. Finally got a chance to see the car in person three weeks ago. Passenger rocker issues as well as surface bubbling in a number of places. Car had been extensively autocrossed at PCA parades for years...very successfully. Owner had pulled the original 2.0 and replaced with a 2.7 RS spec engine with carbs. He bought another mid-engined car (boxster) and ignored the 6. I bought the car (w/ 2.7) and original engine. Got the 2.7 running well enough to drive the car...and decided to dive into the resto. I am familiar with rust, and plan to do it correctly. I have a rotisserie with 911 mounts, but shouldn't be a big deal to make mounts for the 6. Made a couple calls to Resto Design to check on parts...and away I go. I have a 71 911 softie that has been at paint too long...so while I wait for it to come home, thought I would see what my sandblasters schedule was. Turns out he can do the car in two weeks. So, I have a deadline. So...I guess this is my resto thread on my new Adriatic Blue 6...
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I took a few hours Friday afternoon,a couple yesterday, and a few more today. Almost ready for the blaster
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yuck...passenger side. Drivers side looks ok. Before you question...yes I do have some hell-hole issues.
More later...

Speedo




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dw914six
post Dec 13 2014, 08:58 PM
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QUOTE(Luke M @ Dec 1 2014, 06:10 AM) *

Hey Lars,
The 6 is looking good so far and Keep up the great work.
It's been a while since I saw a MFI setup running but it can't be too hard to make it work in a 914. Long ago a friend of mine had a 2.4 T MFI engine in his 914 but I can't recall how he did the fuel plumbing on it.
If you are going the MFI route then just copy the system off a 911.

I do remember him having some issues with trying to figure out the wiring. It can't be too hard now a days with all the info out on the web.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

My 1970 orange 914-6 has MFI on a 2.2S engine. Runs flawlessly. Could not ask for a better setup. You will like it.
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Speedo
post Dec 14 2014, 07:14 PM
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Great! I am looking forward to running the MFI. Can I get some help with install/plumbing/electrical questions when the time comes? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
Will you post some pics of your engine compartment for me?

Speedo
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Speedo
post Dec 14 2014, 07:27 PM
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Need to keep up the pace...snowed here today and a perfect shop afternoon listening to KRFC out of Ft Collins, what a great radio station.
Time to attack...drew the cutting lines. Not really sure what to expect, but need to find out what is behind this
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Nurse, scalpel please
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Ugh....this looks terrible. Not what I was expecting. Started to dig out the crap and realized that most of the "turd colored" stuff was the surface rust from the surrounding steel. The bulk of the mound was seam sealer. And it was a pain to get rid of. Very stiff unless heated. Softer when heated...and BTW the fumes are great. Took me an hour and a half to dig out to here
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Didn't expect this...damn!
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From inside the fender looking up
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Speedo
post Dec 14 2014, 07:51 PM
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Ok, I am going to need more room to deal with repairing this vent tube.Attached Image
Looks sort of like "Freddie" in his hockey mask
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Gotta cut it out and splice a patch in
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Tight quarters here, hard to access, clean up and prep
Inside looking out...rather rough factory finish to this tube...but I guess it is all covered up with the interior
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Shaping the patch
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Speedo
post Dec 14 2014, 07:58 PM
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Fitting the patch
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Trimmed
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Tacked and welded
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Had to do the top stitch from the inside
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Cleaned up the patch and etch primered the repair.
Now on to the exterior skin. There is a lot going on in three dimensions here... I need to figure out the best places for the butt welds in the handle recess area.

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Ferg
post Dec 15 2014, 07:59 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) nice job.
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Speedo
post Dec 15 2014, 03:12 PM
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Just occurred to me that when I fix the perforations in this same area on the driver's side, that I am going to likely find the same mess of over-zealous use of seam sealer there too? Has anybody found the same carnage in that area before? Seriously...3-4 lbs of the muck.

Speedo
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Ferg
post Dec 15 2014, 03:57 PM
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QUOTE(Speedo @ Dec 15 2014, 02:12 PM) *

Just occurred to me that when I fix the perforations in this same area on the driver's side, that I am going to likely find the same mess of over-zealous use of seam sealer there too? Has anybody found the same carnage in that area before? Seriously...3-4 lbs of the muck.

Speedo



Yes, and in both rear fender corners above tail lights.
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Speedo
post Dec 21 2014, 09:21 PM
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QUOTE(Ferg @ Dec 15 2014, 02:57 PM) *

QUOTE(Speedo @ Dec 15 2014, 02:12 PM) *

Just occurred to me that when I fix the perforations in this same area on the driver's side, that I am going to likely find the same mess of over-zealous use of seam sealer there too? Has anybody found the same carnage in that area before? Seriously...3-4 lbs of the muck.

Speedo



Yes, and in both rear fender corners above tail lights.

Yeah, I kind of figured that...back there. Just didn't figure on the amount applied at the door receiver. Thanks Ferg...looking forward to the rear corners. So I am still working on the passenger latch/lock area. This is tricky as it is a three dimensional area. And as my replacement piece is solid, I need to remove good and bad steel to make the replacement as easy as possible. Here is my replacement...lined upAttached Image
I am feeling rather timid as this is a 3D replacement and it is not a scribe and cut situation. More of an extreme cut and fit X seven.
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haycait911
post Dec 21 2014, 09:39 PM
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QUOTE(Speedo @ Dec 21 2014, 08:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Ferg @ Dec 15 2014, 02:57 PM) *

QUOTE(Speedo @ Dec 15 2014, 02:12 PM) *

Just occurred to me that when I fix the perforations in this same area on the driver's side, that I am going to likely find the same mess of over-zealous use of seam sealer there too? Has anybody found the same carnage in that area before? Seriously...3-4 lbs of the muck.

Speedo



Yes, and in both rear fender corners above tail lights.

Yeah, I kind of figured that...back there. Just didn't figure on the amount applied at the door receiver. Thanks Ferg...looking forward to the rear corners. So I am still working on the passenger latch/lock area. This is tricky as it is a three dimensional area. And as my replacement piece is solid, I need to remove good and bad steel to make the replacement as easy as possible. Here is my replacement...lined upAttached Image
I am feeling rather timid as this is a 3D replacement and it is not a scribe and cut situation. More of an extreme cut and fit X seven.
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make sure you check the fit of a door handle in the detent and compare both sides for an even gap all around. an eighth of an inch in the detent height will show up dramatically when you fit the handle/door. don't trust just measurements.
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Speedo
post Jan 6 2015, 09:41 PM
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Santa brought me a Miller-Matic for being good last year. First thing I did was to practice...say hi to "Snork". Yeah, I am different : )
And I did do a bit more trimming on the passenger side door handle repair. Getting ready to weld up. This was a pain to get right.Attached Image Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image[attachmentid=482
221]Attached Image
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Ferg
post Jan 7 2015, 09:12 AM
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Snork is the perfect shop pet.

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brant
post Jan 7 2015, 04:48 PM
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which miller did you get?

110V?

cool!
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Speedo
post Jan 7 2015, 08:03 PM
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QUOTE(brant @ Jan 7 2015, 03:48 PM) *

which miller did you get?

110V?

cool!

Got a Miller-Matic 211 both 120 and 240. The 240 is really for thick stock up to 3/8ths. I am running it on 120 for the time being although my other welder is set up for the 240 I have accessible in the shop...so that is simply a shift of two internal wires and I am good to go. Not much 3/8ths think steel on a Porsche.
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haycait911
post Jan 7 2015, 08:49 PM
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QUOTE(Speedo @ Jan 7 2015, 07:03 PM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Jan 7 2015, 03:48 PM) *

which miller did you get?

110V?

cool!

Got a Miller-Matic 211 both 120 and 240. The 240 is really for thick stock up to 3/8ths. I am running it on 120 for the time being although my other welder is set up for the 240 I have accessible in the shop...so that is simply a shift of two internal wires and I am good to go. Not much 3/8ths think steel on a Porsche.



try some test welds. same metal, with 120v then 240v. you'll see a difference.
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Speedo
post Mar 6 2016, 07:21 PM
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Ok...
I am back. Other projects got in the way...but I am now on a mission. I trimmed the replacement steel to repair the passenger handle area, and stopped there. Very delicate repair and I decided to wait to weld it back up. A small rust hole on the back of the passenger sail forced me to open it up...couldn't just weld up the area...not the right way to do a repair. Once in there...it got worse. Then it got even worse.
Time to cut it out, clean it up and use good steel to replace the bad.Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
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haycait911
post Mar 6 2016, 07:25 PM
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that's pretty ugly. I wouldn't bother going any further. obviously a basket case. probably best to unload it cheap on a dumb Canadian that doesn't know any better (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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Speedo
post Mar 6 2016, 07:25 PM
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I had a donor sail that I disassembled and harvested the needed part.Attached Image Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image
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Speedo
post Mar 6 2016, 07:27 PM
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Harvested and cleaned up...needs a little bit of fitting yet, and to be etched.Attached Image
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Speedo
post Mar 6 2016, 07:31 PM
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Clean the area up, treat and weld in place.Attached Image Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image
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