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> Fix a six, Like Neil Young says...rust is an insomniac
Speedo
post Jan 21 2018, 07:02 PM
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The splice is committed and the inner fender welded up. Starting to rotate the car on the rotisserie to "finish" the welds.
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So if I am not going to track the car and the rocker/longs repairs have been done correctly, is the stiffening kit still necessary?
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Speedo
post Jul 12 2018, 03:51 PM
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Long time since posting...but a lot of progress made. Decided not to add stiffening kit as chassis was not bad, repairs were correct and it is not a "tracked" six.
You guys have seen all this a thousand times so the dialogue will be minimal. At this point I have gone around the car 360 degrees and I am back where I started.Attached Image
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Speedo
post Jul 12 2018, 03:59 PM
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Moving on...welding back in the repaired bottom of the lockpost worried me. Quarter panel was removed which allowed the lockpost to "float". The bottom of the lockpost had welded so the shape might have changed slightly. I measured and triangulated and compared the dimensions with the drivers side 1000 times. I had to "muscle the steel in place to weld using clamps and voodoo.
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Speedo
post Jul 12 2018, 04:08 PM
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Closer...
With the chassis on the rotisserie, and the bracing in place...no way for me to mount the door to check for fitment. All I can do is measure and measure...and then measure a last time. Quarter panel seems to fit back in ok. A real bummer would be that it was either too large (needing something to be re-assessed), or too small leaving large gaps. Would really like someone to come look over my shoulder before I commit this back to the car. Better to have someone look at it and say..."no wait!!!" now than after it is all welded back up. I have beer... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

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Speedo
post Jul 12 2018, 04:18 PM
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Once the q-panel is back on, I have a bit of welding to do on the bottom of the passenger side with the chassis upside down, (thank ggodness for the rotisserie). Then it comes back upright for a lot of weld massaging, and dolleying. Then leading all around (new challenge for me) and paint prep. First round of sandblasting didn't do a very good job on the underside of the chassis. Not sure whether to send it back to them for a second round now that I have a chassis dolley, allowing them to get under the car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...hat-i-made.html

We'll see. I am ok with stubborn undercoating staying on the car, but there sill is a lot of crap (dirt and grease) stuck to the inner fenders, engine compartment etc. that I would like to have removed before I repaint.

Then the question of a painter...?
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Ferg
post Jul 12 2018, 04:39 PM
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I have a guy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)
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Speedo
post Jul 12 2018, 05:30 PM
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QUOTE(Ferg @ Jul 12 2018, 02:39 PM) *


Perfect! Same guy? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

BTW, anybody need these?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...suspension.html
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peteyd
post Jul 13 2018, 06:16 AM
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Lookin' good Lars

Pete
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Speedo
post Jul 14 2018, 08:16 AM
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I'm serious about having someone look this over before I close up the panel.
Brant, Ferg...someone knowledgeable local? The beer is cold. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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brant
post Jul 15 2018, 10:02 AM
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I can look at it. But not sure I would be more than a guess either
The measurements should be adequate.
Plus your dog not have the deep sheet metal and experience you have
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Speedo
post Jul 21 2018, 09:15 AM
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QUOTE(brant @ Jul 15 2018, 08:02 AM) *

I can look at it. But not sure I would be more than a guess either
The measurements should be adequate.
Plus your dog not have the deep sheet metal and experience you have


What about my dog? Why bring her into this? She doesn't weld very well...no opposeable thumb thing.
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Speedo
post Jan 1 2019, 11:37 AM
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Happy New Year!
I am done welding. Didn't want to bore folks with welding pictures. I have dressed my welds and ready to prep for paint, but I have some remaining questions...

I had to remove lead in areas that needed repair ...door handle access, wiper recess and gasket tracks in front and rear as well as bottoms of windshield corners. Picked up a 70/30 Eastwood kit and watched a bunch of videos, so ready to attack. You cannot sand this stuff, only file. Not sure how I am going to be able to finish "contour" some of these areas prior to priming. On outside bodywork (fenders, quarters), filing will be easy, but intricate areas are going to be impossible... like the door latchpost next to the door handle...lots of lead. Am I better off picking up some of the leadfree sandable solder? Or just go plastic? Hate to revert to bondo as it can't be an edge, it dries and shrinks over time and its not original. Never saw any videos of Porsche workers body finishing with lead. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Maybe they used disposable workers?

Help would be appreciated...

Speedo
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sixnotfour
post Jan 1 2019, 12:54 PM
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II dont have a clue but good article ,,Wilhoit Restorations

http://www.willhoitautorestoration.com/leadvspolyester.php
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Speedo
post Jan 5 2019, 05:32 PM
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Lot of welding done here to mitigate rust. B pillar area at lockpost/vent area when I have leading "contour" concerns. Having a painter (no Ferg, not him again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ) come take a look tomorrow to see how much prep he wants me to do. Gonna put some paint on this puppy...eventually!
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Bulldozer27
post Jan 5 2019, 06:16 PM
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I've examined this entire thread as well as your softie conversion thread on Pelican. Utterly amazing....

Would you be interested in addressing the rust issues in my car? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)
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Speedo
post Jan 5 2019, 07:02 PM
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QUOTE(Bulldozer27 @ Jan 5 2019, 04:16 PM) *

I've examined this entire thread as well as your softie conversion thread on Pelican. Utterly amazing....

Would you be interested in addressing the rust issues in my car? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)


Thanks for the compliment, but I am a hack. Self taught that stumbles through my own projects trying to learn along the way. You are supposed to learn from others mistakes.
I (apparently) on the other hand like to learn from both my own and others mistakes.
Now I need to figure out "to lead where necessary, and to not lead where not necessary"?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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sixnotfour
post Jan 12 2019, 07:31 AM
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saw this on r3dplanet thread...lead alternative ?



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Speedo
post Jan 14 2019, 10:47 AM
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Met with my potential painter yesterday. He doesn't do lead, but he loves All-Metal. Not sure how much more I am going to do before "handing off". I will dolly some of the welds, and level the floor dings...and probably some last minute welding. Initially I proposed getting the car upside-down and scrubbing the floor and wheel-wells to get down to undercoating or where the undercoating is scraped off... to steel. Then I was going to prime the bare metal and Schutz the floors. He suggested not doing that and instead allowing him to mount the chassis on his rotisserie and take it back to his sandblaster in Denver. With the chassis on its side they will be able to remove all the undercoating, grime and oil so that the underside of the car is bare like the top of the car. Then he will prime the entire car, and I will come back and seam seal and undercoat the bottom of the chassis. He will then prep and paint top and bottom. Let me know what you guys think...

This raises another question as to the layering and what gets painted body color vs black.

I am of the mindset that the layers go like this...
bare steel
prime
seam seal
undercoating
color
clearcoat (top side)

Also, Adriatic Blue is single stage then clear coat, yes? Modern paints are far different than 58 year old paints. What is the general consensus for type of paint to use these days? He will/can shoot anything.

Thanks...getting closer.
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Speedo
post Jan 20 2019, 08:33 PM
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Needed to clear out some room in the shop today which required moving the hood and rear lid. Painter had suggested that I check fitment soon...as there has been a lot of metal added and metal heated after all the metal repair. Both fit well, and I was reminded that the rear lid needs some massaging above the latch where I discovered dents under the bondo. Not a bad or complicated fix. Front fits great, and I have to admit it starts to get the juices flowing.
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Ferg
post Jan 21 2019, 08:46 AM
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Looks great Lars.
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