Micro1000 CHT Gauge, my preferred setup Options

[McMark]

I was asked about which CHT gauge to get and thought that I had posted this info about the Micro1000 over here some time ago. Apparently not. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) So here's my preferred CHT setup because it has an original looking appearance, it's temperature compenstated, and the sensor and wiring is QUALITY stuff. The temperature compensation is important because the crappy VDO setup (and other cheapies) will read 1° off for every 1° above or below 70° inside your car. The VDO wiring can also lead to erroneous readings due to how the thermocouple works and what are called 'cold-junctions'.

CHT Gauge

This is the Micro 1000 gauge as mentioned. It ranges from 0-600 degree F or 0-300 degrees C. The top row of numbers is F, the bottom row is C. It's got two thumbscrews on the back for the collar that will hold the gauge in the dash (or wherever). It comes with a bulb assembly included for night visibility (I forgot to take a picture of that). The back has a + and a - connection for the wire extension. You want the 2" version.

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Sender
You will need to buy the appropriate probe/sender for your application. A standard Type IV spark plug is 14 mm. The smaller plugs that Len is using is a 12 mm motorcycle spark plug. I can't vouch for which sender should be used for this application. The sender only comes with about 12" of wire. You will need to purchase an extension lead (see below). The sender comes with a section of heat shrink tubing to protect the screw connections between the sender and the extension leads. The section of wire close to the heat source is protected by a braided wire exterior. This is a very nice feature. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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Extension Leads
You will need to purchase either the 7' or the 15' CHT extension lead (make sure you don't accidentally get the EGT leads). These are special wires. You can not use normal copper wire to extend the wires. The wires come pre-crimped with the appropriate connections. So it's a simple plug in installation. I purchased the 15' kit for my 914 as I suspect the 7' is too short, unless you're doing something unique.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.paintandmetal.com-419-1339605844.6.jpg)

This is the link to buy the whole setup.

And part numbers:
Guage: 10-01425
Sender: 10-00823
Extension: 10-01443

[biosurfer1]

despite being sick, you are not crazy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ...you did post about it in the past(though not as thorough):

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=cht+gauge

[Mark Henry]

Cool...er... hot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I don't see the sender for 12mm, I see 10, 14 and 18mm...or is the 10mm a typo?

[ConeDodger]

This is the one you used on my car...

[Elliot Cannon]

My biggest problem with the VDO is the lousy connecters and wiring. I wonder if the connecters and wiring for this gauge will work with my VDO gauge? Probably not compatible. Thanks for this post Mark.
Cheers, Elliot

[McMark]

I don't see the sender for 12mm, I see 10, 14 and 18mm...or is the 10mm a typo?

No, there is no 12mm sender. But you can use the 14mm sender. The ring connector on the bottom isn't an electrical transfer component, it's just a heat transfer component, so it can be crimped/cut/modified to work. Similarly a 10mm connector could be opened up carefully (grind don't drill).

I wonder if the connecters and wiring for this gauge will work with my VDO gauge?

Not compatible. Sorry, but nothing about the VDO setup is good.

[yeahmag]

I have used the same one for years now and love it.

[Mark Henry]

I don't see the sender for 12mm, I see 10, 14 and 18mm...or is the 10mm a typo?

No, there is no 12mm sender. But you can use the 14mm sender. The ring connector on the bottom isn't an electrical transfer component, it's just a heat transfer component, so it can be crimped/cut/modified to work. Similarly a 10mm connector could be opened up carefully (grind don't drill).

Apparently you can get 12mm but it's a bit of a PITA,
Does anyone else need a 12mm sender? maybe we could do a group buy, not to get a discount, just to make it worth their trouble and maybe hurry delivery along.

If I did open up a 10mm I'd like to know they have enough meat on them to do this before I order. Messing with the the 14mm to make it fit a 12mm doesn't sound very appealing to me.

This is what I found on the samba:

58 plastic tub (C&P from thesamba from a thread in 2007)

You're right- generally, the sensors are 10mm or 14mm. However, I called and talked with a salesman, and got 5 of them (one spare) in 12mm. It was kind of a big ordeal, but it happened after several months, and was only about 20% more.

Of course, Aircraft Spruce's supplier dorked up the order a couple of times, and I ended up with 9 of them (and had to send 4 back.... I need to remember to do that), but still- pretty darned cool.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421635

[Jeffs9146]

Here you go!

[rwilner]

Here's mine (pardon the crappy iphone pic).

This works fine in the console but is better suited to the A pillar IMO.

An invaluable gauge that's short money...replace your broken clock with something useful! I think this gauge is a requirement if you've performed any modifications to your engine.

[Valy]

So is the gauge smaller than other 52mnemonic gauges?

[McMark]

Does anyone else need a 12mm sender? maybe we could do a group buy, not to get a discount, just to make it worth their trouble and maybe hurry delivery along.

This totally jogged my memory. Westach is about 1.5m from my shop... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[rwilner]

So is the gauge smaller than other 52mnemonic gauges?

It's a standard 52mm gauge. If you're replacing your clock in a stock center console, you'll need to get creative to fit it into the 60mm hole. I used black gorilla tape. I think Rich Towle found a piece of PVC pipe at home depot that had the perfect ID and OD.

[McMark]

Yup, you can get black PVC and make an adapter that works great.

[jim_hoyland]

Just installed a Micro 1000 CHT. Works fine but cannot read at night because of the weak lighting. Any suggestions to make this brighter ?

[76-914]

Just installed a Micro 1000 CHT. Works fine but cannot read at night because of the weak lighting. Any suggestions to make this brighter ?

But very bright in an A/C which it is made for. White panel lights always blinded the shit out of me at night.

[jim_hoyland]

Just installed a Micro 1000 CHT. Works fine but cannot read at night because of the weak lighting. Any suggestions to make this brighter ?

But very bright in an A/C which it is made for. White panel lights always blinded the shit out of me at night.

Do we need more wattage ?

[worn]

I was asked about which CHT gauge to get and thought that I had posted this info about the Micro1000 over here some time ago. Apparently not. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) So here's my preferred CHT setup because it has an original looking appearance, it's temperature compenstated, and the sensor and wiring is QUALITY stuff. The temperature compensation is important because the crappy VDO setup (and other cheapies) will read 1° off for every 1° above or below 70° inside your car. The VDO wiring can also lead to erroneous readings due to how the thermocouple works and what are called 'cold-junctions'.

I think I could live with a few degrees of fluctuation due to ambient - for one thing you are sort of already able to make a guess about how it is changing from your own built in sensory system and make compensations in your head. On the other hand there is build quality. I thought I had fixed my VDO oil pressure gauge by replacing the sender, but am I really supposed to have to tap the gauge to bring the needle up to position? I almost pulled the engine based on a crappy (can I say that here?) oil pressure gauge.

[ConeDodger]

I was asked about which CHT gauge to get and thought that I had posted this info about the Micro1000 over here some time ago. Apparently not. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) So here's my preferred CHT setup because it has an original looking appearance, it's temperature compenstated, and the sensor and wiring is QUALITY stuff. The temperature compensation is important because the crappy VDO setup (and other cheapies) will read 1° off for every 1° above or below 70° inside your car. The VDO wiring can also lead to erroneous readings due to how the thermocouple works and what are called 'cold-junctions'.

I think I could live with a few degrees of fluctuation due to ambient - for one thing you are sort of already able to make a guess about how it is changing from your own built in sensory system and make compensations in your head. On the other hand there is build quality. I thought I had fixed my VDO oil pressure gauge by replacing the sender, but am I really supposed to have to tap the gauge to bring the needle up to position? I almost pulled the engine based on a crappy (can I say that here?) oil pressure gauge.

"A few degrees of fluctuation due to ambient" would be about 90 right now where I am, and at the north end of acceptable - that would be very concerning. I like that correct calibration can be expected from aircraft quality gauges. VDO is not what they used to be. If they ever really were... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[gothspeed]

Here's mine (pardon the crappy iphone pic).

This works fine in the console but is better suited to the A pillar IMO.

An invaluable gauge that's short money...replace your broken clock with something useful! I think this gauge is a requirement if you've performed any modifications to your engine.

Great looking console .... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)