I foresee a trip to Sears for a LARGE socket! |
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I foresee a trip to Sears for a LARGE socket! |
mittelmotor |
Jun 25 2012, 10:43 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
Hi guys,
Noob question: what is the size and torque value for the rear hub nuts? Gotta buy a socket; already have a stout breaker bar, and the whole thing is swimming in PB Blaster. Thanks in advance! |
PeeGreen 914 |
Jun 25 2012, 11:40 PM
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#2
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I believe it is 250 ft lbs but I am likely wrong,
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mittelmotor |
Jun 26 2012, 12:45 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
I'll answer my own question. Pelican Parts how-to article says 30 mm, or 1 3/16 SAE, torque to between 217 and 253 ft-lb., so nice guess, PeeGreen! Rear bearing replacement looks involved, but will be a rite of passage. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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rnellums |
Jun 27 2012, 07:15 AM
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#4
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Professional Enthusiast Group: Members Posts: 1,646 Joined: 26-November 09 From: Littleton, CO Member No.: 11,072 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Not so bad, so long as you have access to a shop press.
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mittelmotor |
Jun 27 2012, 10:49 AM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
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cary |
Jul 7 2012, 10:43 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Instead of jumping on the breaker bar.
Go get some old school black pipe and cut some extensions. You can calculate the additional torques with each of the different lengths. |
Andyrew |
Jul 9 2012, 10:30 AM
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#7
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Takes over 400lbs of force to break it the first time. I used 5' of black pipe on my breaker bar and had my 250lb father jump on it to break it loose.
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mittelmotor |
Jul 9 2012, 07:24 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
So I got the castle nuts unthreaded, and removed the right stub axle...Tink! One tap with a hammer and it was out. Went on to destroy the left one; death by blunt force trauma.
Oh well, I had to break something! |
stewteral |
Jul 12 2012, 01:32 PM
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#9
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Old Member Group: Members Posts: 384 Joined: 4-December 07 From: Camarillo, CA Member No.: 8,424 Region Association: Southern California |
I'll answer my own question. Pelican Parts how-to article says 30 mm, or 1 3/16 SAE, torque to between 217 and 253 ft-lb., so nice guess, PeeGreen! Rear bearing replacement looks involved, but will be a rite of passage. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Hi Mittelmotor, I just did the rear bear replacement and it's not that much of a challenge. I also took every opportunity to heat the swing-arm & freeze the bearing to aid in easier fitting. That said, it still came down to a BIG Bolt & bigger washers as a puller to get the bearing installed. It's important to PULL the bearing in and NOT try beating it into place. A word of WARNING: I pulled the bearing because of SLOP. I thought the bearing had failed: It had NOT: the wheel hub had worn and was moving relative to the inner bearing race. Some months back, I was surprised to find that axle nut loose and tightened it, but the damage was done and the hub continued to rotate and wear. The result came when I had to withdraw 2-days early from a very expensive three-day week-end at Sears Point (with NO refund) and drag the 7 hours home. The repair cost a new 911 wheel hub + bearing. So my feeling is to not worry about over-torquing the axle nut (much) rather than have it come loose. I stood my 185lbs on my 18" breaker bar (277lbs/ft) and gave a tiny extra bump. Now I KNOW the nut is tight. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) enjoy, Terry |
stugray |
Jul 16 2012, 02:00 PM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,824 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
"Go get some old school black pipe and cut some extensions."
I once snapped a Craftsman breaker bar doing just that. Took it into Sears and the salesman said "looks like you used a 4 foot cheater on that". I said, "no more like 7 foot". He still replaced it without question. Gotta love the craftsman warranty. Oh, and you CAN snap a cheap socket too (safety glasses alert!). Better to buy the impact sockets for that application. Stu |
mittelmotor |
Jul 16 2012, 02:38 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
Thanks for the nuggets of wisdom, guys. There's no substitute for hearing from those of you who've done this before.
I pounded the bearings and hubs out of the rear arms last night, after removing calipers, etc. Hardest part really was removing the pin from the clevis on the parking brake....rusted solid. I buzzed the head of the pin off with a Dremel, and then it came right out. Terry, I had the same issue on the right side....hub was spinning in the bearing a bit. Not an issue, as I'm converting to 5-lug and the new hubs have nice surfaces. For bearing re-install, I have access to a bearing press. So I'll freeze them, put them in freezer baggies and then an ice chest for transport to the shop...kinda like a transplant organ! For bushing replacement on the rear arms, I figured I'd use the bearing press too. Should I use lots of WD-40 here? What about re-installing the new bushings? |
stugray |
Jul 17 2012, 01:26 PM
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#12
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,824 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
I was told on this forum that once you pound the bearings out, you have ruined them.
Even though the Haynes manual shows the mechanic pounding them out. Stu |
bulitt |
Jul 19 2012, 03:25 AM
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#13
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Achtzylinder Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 2-October 11 Member No.: 13,632 Region Association: South East States |
When I replaced my bearings I had cobbled up my washers, all thread rod, nuts etc.
to pull the bearings in the control arm. Froze the bearings first and stuck the end of the control arm in front of my propane garage heater. Placed the frozen bearing into the control arm and turned to pick up my installation device, when I turned back the bearing had slid down into the control arm on its own. Once it all normalized temp it was in there for good. |
mittelmotor |
Jul 19 2012, 02:27 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
I hope mine go in that easily!
Undertook the fun job of removing front suspension bushings last night (at about 11:30, when I do my best work), and found if a little torch heat is good, more is better. When the bushing is actually on fire and making crackling, popping sounds, it's ready to twist off. Looks like a nasty, gooey marshmallow at that point. It will be nice to reach the stage of reassembling freshly painted parts!! |
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