Will it be done before Parade?, Oil cooler installation Options

[Dave_Darling]

Since I'll be driving the 914 through a desert in July, I figure having an external oil cooler might be a good idea. I bought a cooler, thermostat, sandwich plate, and some fittings from Earl's quite a few years back. I don't have any lines, a way to mount the cooler, or a fan.

I wonder if I'll get the install done before the trip? If I do, it'll be close. I have a lot of other obligations which will keep me out of the garage for most days and evenings...

I intend to get the cooler mounted under the rear trunk floor, locate and fasten in the thermostat, add the sandwich plate, then hook it all together with rubber lines. Then I can remove the lines and measure them, so I can get better lines in the correct lengths.

The rubber lines (fuel rated, so hopefully OK with oil) may actually be used as a short-term solution, but I don't expect them to last very long.

I also have to figure out where to get the oil lines and a fan. Hopefully locally, so I don't have to pay for express shipping...

--DD

[type47]

Which Earls adapter did you get? I'm working on re-connecting an oil cooler and I have a 502ERL sandwich adapter w/thermostat. Do you have install instructions? Mine came on an engine in the car when I bought it. Looking for torque spec for the "nut" like fastener.

[ChrisFoley]

The rubber lines (fuel rated, so hopefully OK with oil) may actually be used as a short-term solution, but I don't expect them to last very long.

They'l last only as long as it takes for the oil to get hot, the hose to develop an aneurism and pop, spraying oil all over the underside of the car, leaving you stranded on the side of the road.
Fuel hose isn't rated for the pressures an oil system may develop, and I'm sure it isn't rated for pressure at elevated temperatures.

[ThePaintedMan]

All I know is cars that leak oil are usually the ones that end up with burst radiator hoses. Oil weakens rubber, sometimes very quickly.

[Bartlett 914]

I installed a cooler in my car recently. It still has the rubber hoses supplied. I would only add that I made a mistake on the thermostat connection for the fan. It needs to be on the outlet side of the cooler. It works fine but it runs almost all the time. The oil coming out of the sandwich adapter is the hottest oil in the engine. Best measured after it has had a chance to cool through the external cooler before measuring temperature. After the external oil cooler comes the normal oil cooler.

[Dave_Darling]

Ah, but these hoses were not supplied with the cooler!

I guess that means I really have to find a local source of oil-rated hose, then. Any suggestions?

--DD

[McMark]

SummitRacing.com ships REALLY fast with just ground. Most stuff gets to me overnight (again, just choosing ground shipping) since their warehouse is in Sparks NV.

If you order from them today, you should have it before the weekend.

[monkeyboy]

SummitRacing.com ships REALLY fast with just ground. Most stuff gets to me overnight (again, just choosing ground shipping) since their warehouse is in Sparks NV.

If you order from them today, you should have it before the weekend.

True. I'm in LA, and I get most of the stuff next day, or maybe two day.

You can see when you order if it is coming from that warehouse. If it is, you are OK.

[r_towle]

you wont get it done...bring it to Mark (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[SirAndy]

you wont get it done...bring it to Mark (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

The transportation up to Sonoma and back is a bit much to coordinate, so I'll keep at it myself.

Hey, I've already done a few things since I got it back:
- Fixed a short that kept popping fuse #9
- Re-installed the rain tray
- Re-aligned the left headlight "eyebrow" so the light could actually close
- Replaced the temporary fuel hose through the engine shelf with stainless tubing
- Adjusted the clutch

I dunno, I might just be able to get this done.

I've ordered an electric fan and an in-line thermoswitch for it from Summit. Supposed to ship tomorrow. I've stopped at a local hydraulic supply place and gotten some idea of what is involved with getting hoses put together. I picked up some material to make brackets out of, and I have a rough design for the fan bracket.

Now I have to get the hard parts (cooler, t-stat, sandwich plate) mounted, and run the temporary hoses just to get the sizes. Then I can take those in to the shop and get real hoses made, or at least get the correct type of hose.

.... Yeah, sounds kinda iffy to me as well ...

--DD

[Black22]

I installed a Bugpack Mesa 72 plate oil cooler w/ fan, Mocal Sp-1t sandwich adapter and socketless fittings to socketless hose in about 1.5 hours.

I have two t-stats. One in the Mocal and one Empi on the outlet of the oil cooler. This allows the oil to be cooled in three stages, depending on my driving habits and weather conditions. Stock cooler only until 180 degrees, then the Mocal opens up flow to the Mesa cooler. When the Mesa cooler can't reduce oil temps exiting it to below 180, the fan kicks on.

I ran power to the fan from a fused lead to the battery (Thanks to Toms fuse block mod (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) ), w/o a relay. Works great! Fan will run for about a minute after the engine is shut down. When you fire it up after a brief (10 minute) stop, my temps are back to 180!

40 miles on the freeway, with 86 degree weather, my temps never got over 200.

BTW my cooler is mounted under the rear trunk, above a heat exchanger.

[r_towle]

The transportation up to Sonoma and back is a bit much to coordinate, so I'll keep at it myself.

Hey, I've already done a few things since I got it back:
- Fixed a short that kept popping fuse #9
- Re-installed the rain tray
- Re-aligned the left headlight "eyebrow" so the light could actually close
- Replaced the temporary fuel hose through the engine shelf with stainless tubing
- Adjusted the clutch

I dunno, I might just be able to get this done.

I've ordered an electric fan and an in-line thermoswitch for it from Summit. Supposed to ship tomorrow. I've stopped at a local hydraulic supply place and gotten some idea of what is involved with getting hoses put together. I picked up some material to make brackets out of, and I have a rough design for the fan bracket.

Now I have to get the hard parts (cooler, t-stat, sandwich plate) mounted, and run the temporary hoses just to get the sizes. Then I can take those in to the shop and get real hoses made, or at least get the correct type of hose.

.... Yeah, sounds kinda iffy to me as well ...

--DD

Dunno dude, you may have to get your hands dirty again....just drive it to marks, bring beer and let him do it while you wait... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[wndsrfr]

Dave--I'm reminded of a small instruction sheet insert included with my daughter's bicycle when unpacking it in pieces at 2am on Christmas night--it read "NOTE: Assembly of bicycle require great peace of mind."
I've been through three iterations on the oil cooler starting with the location above passenger side axle and ending up with a big front mount unit. I think the rear location is ok for street use, but doesn't cut it for DE events of 30 minutes, so I finally went front mount.
Another factor is the oil lines as you mentioned. I went from rubber 1/2 inch hose with barb fittings and hose clamps to hydraulic ones to finally Summit's stainless wrapped AN10. The correct blue Earl's rubber is probably fine for street use but some PCA groups won't allow it for DE's, requiring screwed-on or swaged-on fittings. When I tried the hydraulic lines I found the interior diameter of the fittings to be much smaller than the exterior size would seem to indicate, causing a series of restrictions in the system.
Summit's AN10 (even better is AN12, but probably overkill) keeps a uniform 1/2inch flow path through all fittings and the hose. The fittings assemble easliy after you get the knack of cutting the hose. I used a procedure of using the air cutoff disc tool to cut the stainless braid but not through the rubber inner liner to avoid spooging up the line with debris. Then cut the rubber liner with a razor knife and finally flush and blow clean anyway.
When you mock it up, be sure to allow plenty of linear room at each fitting before you get to the flex line--you'll be surprised how much space each of them take and will likely have to re-mount the cooler to get it to fit, so actually better to only temporarily mount the cooler first, make up the lines, then firmly mount the assembly.
Good luck with it--it's a very satisfying project, but definitely requires great peace of mind!

[GeorgeRud]

I imagine that the desert would be quite hot to traverse, but I do remember attending the Porsche Parade many years ago in the Ozarks. With temperatures over 100 degrees and the car loaded down with a weeks worth of luggage for two (as well as a case of wine on the passenger footwell!), the car still ran cool enough for our ride home to Chicago.

Do the cars really get that hot out west running down the highway?

[bdstone914]

Chris is 100% right about not using fuel line. I worked for an oil cooler company for 27 years and had to deal with hose claims where "mechanics" substituted fuel line for oil cooler hose. On transmission coolers it lasted a few days or a few weeks at best.

You need a minimum inside diameter of 1/2.

Try a big rig truck supply house. They carry what is called a fleet hose for general purpose on big trucks.

I suggest an internal wire braid hose. The SS outer cover only adds heat to the rubber underneath it.

You need a medium duty hydraulic hose rated for 250 F minimum. Fuel hose is cooled internally by the fuel and typically rated for no more than 70 psi and about 200F.
Also mounting an oil cooler under the vehicle is one of the least effective location.
You have the hot air from the engine, exhaust and road heat.
I mounted mine to the engine lid with the rain tray removed and never broke 210 F under heavy sustained load.
The amount of cooling you get is directly proportional to the differential temperature of the oil and air. Thus if you have 200 degree oil and 100 degree air you have twice the cooling of 200 degree oil and 150 air. The other factor to consider is the air volume through a cooler. A typical fan provides the equivalent of 15mph air speed. Next consider ho much to the cooler you are covering with a fan with a 4 inch dead spot in the center.
Highly recommend an oil temp and pressure gauge.
I next want to mount a cooler directly in front of the fan. It simplifies hose routing.
While it does add some heat to the cooling air to the heads the rise in temp is small and has little effect on the differential temp between the air and heads.
Bruce

[SirAndy]

"NOTE: Assembly of bicycle require great peace of mind."

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

My car's oil has gotten hot enough climbing through the Cascades in mid-summer (Portland Parade a few years ago) that we took a couple of breaks to let it cool. The car is probably in better tune now, but we're headed over the Sierras, which is rather higher as I recall. And it will likely be hotter through NV. Makes me want a cooler for peace of mind, if I can get it done.

I'm getting proper oil hose from a local company. I think the lines will be -10 AN; I have Earl's fittings for most or all of the junctions. I will need to make sure I give it enough bending radius when doing the layout, and I hadn't thought enough about how much of a straight run the fittings will need. Fortunately I have most of the fittings so I should be able to get it close.

I know the front of the car is the best location for a cooler. I don't want it there. I don't want it on the engine lid, or in front of the cooling fan. I want it under the trunk, in an area out of the air flow and in an area heated up by the exhaust. I know it will be sub-optimal there, but I believe that a 25-plate cooler (about 12x9 dimensions) should provide adequate cooling for my purposes. I made that decision years and years ago, back when I ordered the cooler--which is why I picked one of that particular size.

I have oil temp and pressure gauges already.

--DD

[ClayPerrine]

Dave,
Just do it... quit kvetching about it. I have been prepping Betty's car for Parade, and in the past few weeks, I have:

Installed new carpet.
Installed new door boxes.
Changed the clutch.
Changed the shocks and springs (Did the fronts last night after work.)
Replaced all 4 tires.
Replaced the brake pads and flushed the brake system.
Replaced one Fuchs rim after it cracked at an AX.
Replaced the front wheel bearings.
Adjusted the valves.
Fixed the broken exhaust hanger.
Installed new seat belts.
Installed the wiring for the radar detector.
Chased down an intermittent cut out issue.

To go:

Change the oil cooler seals and the oil Saturday morning.


All this while working 50 to 60 hour weeks, and finishing my Black Belt.

Oh..and it will be good to finally see YOUR 914 in person.

[Dave_Darling]

You've seen it before, at the last DFW Parade!!

--DD