Remote starter solenoid, Good, bad or ugly? Options

[Jesco Reient]

Ok so I've spent another lovely day working on the 914, The harness from the relay has some bad wiring in it. So I'm taking it out to replace it. I get to the starter and there is a Ford starter solenoid remote mounted where it is fairly easy to reach from underneath the car. Now I know this is not factory, but is this a common modification that some people think is a good idea? or is this a band aid fix for something worse?

[SirAndy]

or is this a band aid fix for something worse?

I'd go with that one.

While adding a relay to that circuit by itself is not a bad idea, it's commonly used as a band-aid because someone was too lazy to find the real problem.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

Its a band aid for dirty grounds, corroded wires, and bad connections. That said, its sometimes the quicker, easier, cheaper fix. Cleaning those grounds and finding the real problem can be both time consuming, and expensive if your paying some one to do it. Its not a bad fix. The ford solenoid works with much less voltage than the bosch.

[Bartlett 914]

A solenoid pulls a lot of current. This can put a strain on the ignition switch. Adding another solenoid doesn't really solve this. You can use a small relay with contacts that can handle the stock solenoid. These are commonly available at your FLAPS. These will have low current coils (good for the ignition switch) and contacts that will work your solenoid. Should the relay fail, it is very easy to go back to stock. While true that there may be other problems, I use a relay as a preventative measure.

[Tom]

The 914 has a long start circuit with many connections. Any one of them that deteriorates causes a loss of current flow, resulting in low voltage to the solenoid and resultant low current flow to the solenoid. A fix is to install a starter relay near the starter solenoid that uses less current to operate.
One might wonder why starter relays were designed in the first place and why VW and Porsche ( among others) decided one was not necessary. Did you ever hook up a starter and manually activate the starter solenoid? See the spark from the arc across where you made the connection? That produces carbon which over time builds up on the contacts until, guess what, yes, another voltage drop. Carbon is the main ingredient in small resistors.
The stock solenoid on a 914 pulls 35 amps initially until the contacts inside the solenoid close. I'd say that was considerable current. Installing a relay that only pulls 150 mili-amps is a HUGH improvement to the start circuit and will save the ignition switch from the destructive arc.
Where in western Washington are you? There are a good number of us Teener owners around here.
Tom in Port orchard,Wa.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Yep, I used the wrong terminolgy. Should have said relay.

[Jesco Reient]

Where in western Washington are you? There are a good number of us Teener owners around here.
Tom in Port orchard,Wa.

I am in the Olympia area

[Jesco Reient]

Thank you to everybody, I have removed the starter and all the related from the relay board as well, and am now inspecting the wiring, Yeah, not good but atleast there are wiring harnesses available!

[Tom]

If your 12 pin harness is bad, someone local may have one to replace it. Also lots of guys are willing to lend a hand sorting out the problem for beer and BBQ!!,
or just Teener talk!
Tom

[lester7410]

I have been told to install a ford starter relay to increase the voltage to the starter. My new starter "clunks", but does not turn the engine. Can someone tell me how to install this into the wiring ? What wires/cable connect to where? Could really use your help.

[SLITS]

Depends on which Ford solenoid you got. If it has two small terminals, proceed as follows:

1.) Battery cable and alternator cable that was on starter to one large terminal.

2.) Short battery cable from other large terminal on Ford solenoid to original post on starter solenoid (top terminal).

3.) Yellow wire that was attached to solenoid goes to one of the small terminals on the Ford solenoid. I hooked up a battery to the Ford solenoid (+ to large terminal, - is the mounting plate. I hooked up a wire from the + battery connection and touched the smaller terminals ... one of which will make it click ... that's where the yellow wire goes.

4.) From the other small terminal, you can run a wire to the spade terminal the yellow wire was originally attached to on the starter

or

You can run a jumper from the solenoid battery terminal (top one - the one you hooked the short battery cable from the Ford solenoid) to the spade terminal where the yellow wire was attached.

5.) All that's left is to mount the Ford solenoid to the body or a good ground.

Oh, and disconnect the positive lead on the battery before doing any of this!

[PanelBilly]

I'm always willing to come by and drink your beer and walk around the car with a dazed look on my face. Check over all the wires and connections at the starter. It means pulling the starter off and doing some inspection on the bench. Jeff Bowlsby ( sorry Jeff if I spelled your name wrong, I've already started drinking tonight) has correct replacement wires for making everything new again. No reason to add a "fix" when the issue is just wires that have broken down over time.

[JeffBowlsby]

Keep knockin' 'em back Billy if thats what it takes, you are one of the few that spelled it right!

[KELTY360]

Ford Starter solenoid wiring

Read this thread for the info you need. It's been two years since I did this fix and it's been flawless.

[lester7410]

Depends on which Ford solenoid you got. If it has two small terminals, proceed as follows:

1.) Battery cable and alternator cable that was on starter to one large terminal.

2.) Short battery cable from other large terminal on Ford solenoid to original post on starter solenoid (top terminal).

3.) Yellow wire that was attached to solenoid goes to one of the small terminals on the Ford solenoid. I hooked up a battery to the Ford solenoid (+ to large terminal, - is the mounting plate. I hooked up a wire from the + battery connection and touched the smaller terminals ... one of which will make it click ... that's where the yellow wire goes.

4.) From the other small terminal, you can run a wire to the spade terminal the yellow wire was originally attached to on the starter

or

You can run a jumper from the solenoid battery terminal (top one - the one you hooked the short battery cable from the Ford solenoid) to the spade terminal where the yellow wire was attached.

5.) All that's left is to mount the Ford solenoid to the body or a good ground.

Oh, and disconnect the positive lead on the battery before doing any of this!

[ClayPerrine]

Oh, and disconnect the positive lead on the battery before doing any of this!

If you disconnect the NEGATIVE lead on the battery you get the exact same effect, and you don't get sparks if your wrench happens to hit ground while loosening up the nut on the cable.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

[76-914]

Check out this thread. Mark has a hand drawn wiring diagram here that helps. Scroll down about half way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=37683&hl=