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> Rear Main seal replacement, Couple questions
JRust
post Jul 28 2012, 07:22 PM
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I am replacing the rear main seal on my 74 2.0. I have a couple questions.

1st there are 3 shims on the crank that are loose. I know they are supposed to be as the flywheel holds them in place. My question is one of them is cracked. Would it be okay sandwiched between the other 2?

2nd the rear main seal I pulled I can see why it was leaking. Since I didn't put this one in. How do I put the new one in without causing the same problem? There are about 3 lines in the seal with the worst being in the picture. I didn't feel any burrs on the lip. I'd assume just put a little oil on the seal to help slide it in place. Any other tips appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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McMark
post Jul 28 2012, 07:33 PM
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Toss the cracked one. You should reset the end play while you're there anyway. I'll send you my installation tool and some spare shims if you want.
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JRust
post Jul 28 2012, 08:01 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 28 2012, 06:33 PM) *

Toss the cracked one. You should reset the end play while you're there anyway. I'll send you my installation tool and some spare shims if you want.

That would be great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Do you think you could get them out monday? On the off chance it sells on ebay. I only have 2 days left on it. I thought I had ordered everything I would need (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Some instructions on how to set the end play would be great too. Thanks Mark (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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euro911
post Jul 29 2012, 11:03 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Don't re-use that shim.

Elring seals have been getting bad press recently. I'd recommend using Victor Reinz seals.

There are a few ways to check/set end play, you just need a solidly mounted datum device and a dial indicator to gauge back & forth movement.

Here's a YouTube video ... It's easy, even a Caveman can do it ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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reharvey
post Jul 29 2012, 11:37 AM
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I've had some really bad luck with Elring rear seals. Use the Victor Reinz seal. Just my $0.02
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JRust
post Jul 29 2012, 12:33 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Jul 29 2012, 10:03 AM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Don't re-use that shim.

Elring seals have been getting bad press recently. I'd recommend using Victor Reinz seals.

There are a few ways to check/set end play, you just need a solidly mounted datum device and a dial indicator to gauge back & forth movement.

Here's a YouTube video ... It's easy, even a Caveman can do it ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

That video helps. I don't pick things up worth a crap out of a book. Watching it done is much better. So the endplay is just set with shims. Piece of cake (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I don't know what seal I have. I ordered it from Pelican

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JRust
post Jul 29 2012, 08:10 PM
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Looks like Pelican's are Elring. Oh well we shall see how well it works. I can use the shims & tool Mark. Call you later (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Thanks for all the suggestions too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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McMark
post Jul 29 2012, 09:35 PM
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Can do. I'll get them out to you tomorrow.
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ape914
post Jul 30 2012, 09:44 AM
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I would be hesitant to use any of them shims again, the shims are bearing surfaces. Certainly the shim(s) that were next to the torn one are damaged, no longer flat , or gouged. I'd replace all three. they got to be flat and smooth.

Try a cut a chamfer on the case to allow the new seal to slide in without catching on the sharp case edges. a nice 1/16 inch bevel makes the seals go in nice and easy with no tearing, use some oil on them too.
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