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> Car runs hot, Temp gauge in center console nearly in the red
Dave_Darling
post Aug 13 2012, 03:18 PM
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QUOTE(Daiberl @ Aug 13 2012, 07:24 AM) *
Advance port on distributor is connected, retard not just as it was from factory.


That is backwards. The retard port (the one pointing toward the distributor body) should be hooked up to the fitting on the throttle body that points away from the distributor. The advance port (points away from the distributor body) was left unconnected and unplugged from the factory.

Mixing those up could possibly have an effect on your oil temps.

I am more inclined to believe there is still something obstructing the air flow to or through the cooler. Or that the gauge is not reading correctly. Verify the actual temperature when the gauge reads hot. If it's under 230F, you should be OK. If it's 250F or over, it is very definitely a problem.

--DD
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minnesota loon
post Aug 14 2012, 06:23 AM
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What happens to engine when temp is 250? If oil pressure is good why does 250 matter? Race cars run hotter. Porsche race car mechanic told me 250 is OK.
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 14 2012, 08:34 AM
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Race car engines get rebuilt every season some times.
Oil pressure drops with temperature. On a race car running WOT the whole time this may not be an issue. But for a street car that goes to idle you may lose pressure.
Some oils break down at higher temps. When the oil can't do it job, the engine will eat itself.

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aircooledtechguy
post Aug 14 2012, 09:42 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 13 2012, 06:38 AM) *

Assume nothing! Check the oil temp with a known working instrument e.g. an IR thermometer aimed at the pan where the sending unit goes, your wife's cooking thermometer, anything. Just don't assume.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Am IR thermometer works wonders to find if the gauge is giving wrong readings. I recently had a similar problem with my shop car. Gauge was right near red on the freeway. Checked it with an IR thermometer and the taco plate read 212F; PERFECT!! In my case it was a case of using a 911 gauge with an incompatible 914 sender which worked on a different oHms scale.

If it was reading fine before, I would suspect a gauge/ground/sender issue, but without verification by something with a little newer technology, I wouldn't go tearing into stuff too deeply. Check the plugs going into/out of the relay board too.
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rwilner
post Aug 14 2012, 11:33 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I would suspect the gauge before anything else. To be sure: spend a few bucks on the mainley dipstick temp gauge and find out what temp you're really running.

Also: I think your 74 is running djet, correct? If so, I believe that ECU knob only effects the mixture at idle...and the ECU will only detect idle if the TPS is calibrated correctly. So, twisting that knob should have no effect on your running temperature I believe.
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sfrenck
post Aug 14 2012, 12:43 PM
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QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Aug 13 2012, 06:08 AM) *

First, you don't state the year and engine size. Second, the timing"seems" ok? Did you actually time it with a light? "seems ok" isn't good enough. Changing to a "hot spark"won't make the engine run hotter. Running it advanced will.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I swore my timing was right on... 5 mile drive to my friends house, 5 mile drive back and I was overheating. Turned out the distributor clamp bolt wasn't tightened past my "keep it loose enough so I can adjust the timing" amount and I had inadvertently spun it a bit (over advanced) while working on something else in the engine bay.

Reset the timing - no overheating.
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Dave_Darling
post Aug 14 2012, 08:59 PM
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QUOTE(minnesota loon @ Aug 14 2012, 05:23 AM) *

What happens to engine when temp is 250? If oil pressure is good why does 250 matter? Race cars run hotter. Porsche race car mechanic told me 250 is OK.


Some of the stuff in motor oil will break down at 250F. Synthetic oils are less prone to it, but if you run them at 250F for a long time they still won't be happy.

--DD
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Rand
post Nov 12 2013, 09:36 PM
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QUOTE(kerensky @ Aug 12 2012, 08:56 PM) *
Slipping or broken fan belt


Just have to point out, this post has caused a little bit of controversy and I think it should be called out. Not to be an ass, but to clear a misconception.

The 914's fan is driven by the crank, not a belt. There is no "fan belt" on a 914. It is impossible for a belt to affect the fan.
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Dave_Darling
post Nov 12 2013, 10:16 PM
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Well, if it slipped off and then wound up inside the fan it could block some of the air flow. Like a plastic bag, or a rag...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

--DD
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PanelBilly
post Nov 12 2013, 10:24 PM
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This car has been fixed, but I'll leave the story for Jurgen to tell. I'm guessing he's off working.
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Rand
post Nov 12 2013, 10:26 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 12 2013, 09:16 PM) *

Well, if it slipped off and then wound up inside the fan it could block some of the air flow. Like a plastic bag, or a rag...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

--DD

That's a stretch. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
Maybe if it was your girlfriends garter belt that got caught in there. They have much more wind resistance.

I had a belt come apart on me on an old Datsun 510 doing about 80. It made such a racket I thought the engine scattered. I discovered the belt separated and pieces of it were flinging around. I trimmed it up with a pocket knife, tightened up what was left and actually made it home on what is truly a "fan belt." Phew.
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brant
post Nov 12 2013, 11:23 PM
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Race cars don't run over 250.
At least not for long.
That's shut if off numbers
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