Doug's A/C System, R&D/Build Thread Options

[dlee6204]

In a couple of days I can hopefully provide some photos of my AC install (LS1 conversion) that may be helpful to the -4 & -6 guys as well. I used an under dash evaporator (Hot Rod Air) that looks somewhat similar to the original dealer installed system (from memory of my '73, but that was more than 30 years ago). I opted to use reduced-diameter barrier hose which, as the name implies, the diameter (outside) is smaller than standard barrier hose. The smaller hose makes routing easier, and you don't have to punch such large holes. The fittings are more difficult to find, but Doc's Blocks (Stark Mfg) makes a whole array of there fittings; they recently stopped selling direct, so you'll have to contact them for a dealer. If you go with the reduced barrier hose, make sure your local AC shop has the correct crimping dies (most do not). Luckily, my local NAPA did have the correct ones, and did a great job.

Andys

Interesting. Please keep us updated. Do you have any specs on the hoses? As in, what the OD is?


The size of regular hose is as follows:

#6 ID: 5/16", OD: 3/4"
#8 ID: 13/32", OD: 29/32"
#10 ID: 1/2", OD: 1"

[andys]

Interesting. Please keep us updated. Do you have any specs on the hoses? As in, what the OD is?


The size of regular hose is as follows:

#6 ID: 5/16", OD: 3/4"
#8 ID: 13/32", OD: 29/32"
#10 ID: 1/2", OD: 1"

Doug,

Here's a chart of std and RBH sizes (kind of a lousey chart, but all I could find with a quick search).

http://www.ackits.com/c/Barrier/Barrier+Hose+-+Bulk.html

Andys

[dlee6204]

I updated post #9 with a more detailed list of parts.

[dlee6204]

After getting the condenser in I began routing my lines and drilling holes. The grommets I used require a 1.5" hole. I ran my lines similar to that in an original system. There are probably better ways to route the lines however my setup works just fine. Plus they will probably get redone when a redo my car in a few years. I still have to button up the lines in a few areas. The pictures below are mostly during mockup.

I order 13ft of #8 and #10 hose and 9ft of #6 hose. I ended up with about a foot left of each so it was just the right amount.

[dlee6204]

And while we are on the subject of hoses.... I made all of my own hoses. I started by routing the line, marking how much I needed, removed the line, installed the end fittings, and then reinstalled the lines adding grommets where needed.

[dlee6204]

The Evaporator install was pretty straight forward so I didn't take many pictures. The Evap unit attaches to the underdash pad and then two brackets on either side to hold it up. My unit isn't in the greatest shape but works. All the vents are broken in some way so if anyone has any spare vents they would like to get rid of, I could use em.

[dlee6204]

Onto the compressor... I decided to go with a top-mounted unit utilizing a smog pulley assembly to drive it. I had big plans to have this nice professional looking mount that I would be proud of... and the parts I needed ended up being backordered. I got tired of waiting so I made my own from scratch. Later down the road I might update the mount.


Here is the setup I came up with.



Here is the mount. It might not look like much but its solid as a rock.


The adjustment piece


The pulley assembly

[dlee6204]

Some more pictures on the test engine.




I ended up not needing to relocate the filler. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[dlee6204]

More









Finished

[JeffBowlsby]

Do you have to remove the compressor to time the engine?

[FourBlades]

Great thread, thanks for posting this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

John

[dlee6204]

Do you have to remove the compressor to time the engine?

Maybe... The timing port was difficult to work around so I had to do the best I could. I think I can use a small mirror to see the timing marks but if I have to remove the compressor, its three bolts and takes 2 minutes.

[cgnj]

Do you have to remove the compressor to time the engine?

Maybe... The timing port was difficult to work around so I had to do the best I could. I think I can use a small mirror to see the timing marks but if I have to remove the compressor, its three bolts and takes 2 minutes.

I use the timing mark on the flywheel. I never time off the fan.

[hot_shoe914]

Best damn thread EVER in the garage!

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[dlee6204]

I use the timing mark on the flywheel. I never time off the fan.

Good idea!

[dlee6204]

The best thing about this whole setup is that IT WORKS. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) More to come soon.

[gothspeed]

fantastic thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

when my car gets done, I am gonna want A/C in it ..... thanks for documenting this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) !!!

[metalmorphosis]

Awesome Doug can't wait to go for a ride sometime w the a/c blasting.

Gabe

[zambezi]

My hoses were originally run that way. In your picture you can see the inner fender well has rub marks where the tire has rubbed in the past at full lock. My car does too and I am running 17 inch turbo twists now which are very close to rubbing the fender well on full lock even with my custom spacers. I routed my hose up and over the tire and added two hose mounts to keep it in place. In my pics you can see the hose enters the trunk under the headlight up front.



don't mind the spider webs. here is the hose running up over the tire.



the two hose mounts are riveted in the seal channel and will be hidden by the seal.



The hose enters under the headlight into the trunk.



Here is my completed trunk area. I also am running the drier in the trunk.

[zambezi]

Here are the other pics I took tonight of the compressor mounted and the hoses run.



In this picture you can see the timing plug is removed and there is access to view the timing marks (even on a stock setup you need to be a contortionist to see directly down there). You can also see I relocated my oil filler higher and angled back for easier access.



Here is the front pulley. Lots of room for the engine tin for belt changes.



The belt JUST hugs the front fan housing.



Here you can see how close the compressor pulley is to the factory sound pad. In your setup I noticed you have no sound pad yet. If you put one back I am sure you will be close like mine. It is close but still just clears and I want that heat and sound barrier for the cabin so it is worth it.