Need help starting a 75 1.8L L-Jet in NoVA, Injectors not spraying Options

[timothy_nd28]

No prob,,all of those pins should have 12vdc. I've made a couple of assumptions here, so don't get offended. Are all the fuel injector connectors plugged onto each injector? We know one is plugged in, and making continuity,,this is why your measuring 12vdc at the ECU connector.

With the one pin on the ECU connector reading 12vdc on the previous test,,if you apply ground on that pin, do you hear a click?

I would suggest pulling off each injector lead, then re-seating each connector with a slight wiggle, to ensure a good electrical connection. Then retest those pins at the ECU plug to see if you have any more 12vdc pins. If you have the same results, (one out of 4 has 12vdc),,then pull off each injector lead and probe one of the 2 contacts. With the ECU plug still unattached,,,one contact will measure nothing (at the fuel injector connector) the other should be reading 12vdc.

Do this for each fuel injector connector, keeping in mind that one contact will read 0, and the other will read 12vdc.

[wrightee]

No prob,,all of those pins should have 12vdc. I've made a couple of assumptions here, so don't get offended. Are all the fuel injector connectors plugged onto each injector? We know one is plugged in, and making continuity,,this is why your measuring 12vdc at the ECU connector.

With the one pin on the ECU connector reading 12vdc on the previous test,,if you apply ground on that pin, do you hear a click?

I would suggest pulling off each injector lead, then re-seating each connector with a slight wiggle, to ensure a good electrical connection. Then retest those pins at the ECU plug to see if you have any more 12vdc pins. If you have the same results, (one out of 4 has 12vdc),,then pull off each injector lead and probe one of the 2 contacts. With the ECU plug still unattached,,,one contact will measure nothing (at the fuel injector connector) the other should be reading 12vdc.

Do this for each fuel injector connector, keeping in mind that one contact will read 0, and the other will read 12vdc.

Okay, thanks - I'll have to run through this tomorrow and I'll post what I find then.

Thanks again, Ed

[wrightee]

No prob,,all of those pins should have 12vdc. I've made a couple of assumptions here, so don't get offended. Are all the fuel injector connectors plugged onto each injector? We know one is plugged in, and making continuity,,this is why your measuring 12vdc at the ECU connector.

With the one pin on the ECU connector reading 12vdc on the previous test,,if you apply ground on that pin, do you hear a click?

I would suggest pulling off each injector lead, then re-seating each connector with a slight wiggle, to ensure a good electrical connection. Then retest those pins at the ECU plug to see if you have any more 12vdc pins. If you have the same results, (one out of 4 has 12vdc),,then pull off each injector lead and probe one of the 2 contacts. With the ECU plug still unattached,,,one contact will measure nothing (at the fuel injector connector) the other should be reading 12vdc.

Do this for each fuel injector connector, keeping in mind that one contact will read 0, and the other will read 12vdc.

Needless to say, the wire harness and some of the plugs are in poor/marginal condition.

After fiddling a little more, I did get voltage to read on pin 33, so both 32 and 33 show voltage at the ECU plug (cylinders 2 and 4).

I got a good voltage reading at the plug for cylinder 3, but still no reading at pin 15 after reconnecting, and only a very marginal reading (about .6 to .8 volt) at the cylinder 1 plug.

I can not hear any discernable click at the injectors when I ground pins 32 or 33 as well. I stuck my head down in to listen better, as I do have a buzzer sounding with the ignition "on" since taking out the center console and unplugging those gauges.

[timothy_nd28]

Take off the 4 injector leads, and prepare 4 cups of Coke. Set the injector lead into each cup for about 45 mins.

[wrightee]

No prob,,all of those pins should have 12vdc. I've made a couple of assumptions here, so don't get offended. Are all the fuel injector connectors plugged onto each injector? We know one is plugged in, and making continuity,,this is why your measuring 12vdc at the ECU connector.

With the one pin on the ECU connector reading 12vdc on the previous test,,if you apply ground on that pin, do you hear a click?

I would suggest pulling off each injector lead, then re-seating each connector with a slight wiggle, to ensure a good electrical connection. Then retest those pins at the ECU plug to see if you have any more 12vdc pins. If you have the same results, (one out of 4 has 12vdc),,then pull off each injector lead and probe one of the 2 contacts. With the ECU plug still unattached,,,one contact will measure nothing (at the fuel injector connector) the other should be reading 12vdc.

Do this for each fuel injector connector, keeping in mind that one contact will read 0, and the other will read 12vdc.

Needless to say, the wire harness and some of the plugs are in poor/marginal condition.

After fiddling a little more, I did get voltage to read on pin 33, so both 32 and 33 show voltage at the ECU plug (cylinders 2 and 4).

I got a good voltage reading at the plug for cylinder 3, but still no reading at pin 15 after reconnecting, and only a very marginal reading (about .6 to .8 volt) at the cylinder 1 plug.

I can not hear any discernable click at the injectors when I ground pins 32 or 33 as well. I stuck my head down in to listen better, as I do have a buzzer sounding with the ignition "on" since taking out the center console and unplugging those gauges.

Correction: Full voltage at #3 injector plug, but only about 7 volts at ECU pin 15 after reconnecting.

[timothy_nd28]

Pin 33 and 32 looks like injector 1 and 4. So if your getting voltage at the ECU connector at these pins, and you apply ground to these pins, you'll be able to fire them. I understand the inability to hear this in a noisy environment. You can remove injector 1 and 4 from the intake, and visually look for spray mist.

After the Coke dip for each injector connector, spray them down with ether or something, to remove the residue.

[timothy_nd28]

Pin 33 and 32 looks like injector 1 and 4. So if your getting voltage at the ECU connector at these pins, and you apply ground to these pins, you'll be able to fire them. I understand the inability to hear this in a noisy environment. You can remove injector 1 and 4 from the intake, and visually look for spray mist.

After the Coke dip for each injector connector, spray them down with ether or something, to remove the residue.

Correction, I may have read the schematic wrong. What you stated earlier about the injectors for what cylinders that corresponds with pin 33 and 32 maybe correct.

[wrightee]

Pin 33 and 32 looks like injector 1 and 4. So if your getting voltage at the ECU connector at these pins, and you apply ground to these pins, you'll be able to fire them. I understand the inability to hear this in a noisy environment. You can remove injector 1 and 4 from the intake, and visually look for spray mist.

After the Coke dip for each injector connector, spray them down with ether or something, to remove the residue.

Correction, I may have read the schematic wrong. What you stated earlier about the injectors for what cylinders that corresponds with pin 33 and 32 maybe correct.

I'm going off a good diagram I found on Jeff Bowlsby's site with a hand-drawn schematic of the L-Jet wiring.



Also, I found this unused (green) wire, but I was guessing it was from the condensor that was pulled out for the CompuFire ignition (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[timothy_nd28]

Nevermind that green wire, this wire isn't causing your car not to start. It goes to your oil pressure switch.

[dlee6204]

Nevermind that green wire, this wire isn't causing your car not to start. It goes to your oil pressure switch.

It looks like his pressure switch is already connected so the green wire would be something else. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[wrightee]

Nevermind that green wire, this wire isn't causing your car not to start. It goes to your oil pressure switch.

It looks like his pressure switch is already connected so the green wire would be something else. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

It actually came FROM the coil and went no where (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

As I started digging around in the wire looms, I realized that someone has done some major surgery on the harness (cuts and splices all over). Since I have some broken connectors and a harness with questionable integrity, I decided its time to use the spare harness I had been saving to put in after my rebuild.

I'm replacing it now and will see how things look after that.

[timothy_nd28]

after installing this wiring harness, recheck those pins on the ECU plug that I mentioned earlier. You should have 12vdc on each of them.

[wrightee]

after installing this wiring harness, recheck those pins on the ECU plug that I mentioned earlier. You should have 12vdc on each of them.

OK - harness is in and I now have 12vdc at all ECU Pins

[timothy_nd28]

start it up, it should run

[wrightee]

start it up, it should run

No luck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Seems like I still have fuel delivery issues. Found one hose to an injector that was clogged with new sludge (must have moved here from when I replaced the lines on the tank side).

Guess I need to check fuel pressure next? Is it normal to hear the pressure regulator make a sort of hissing sound when you move the AFM flap?

[ClayPerrine]

Remove the distributor. Hook an ground wire from the distributor to the engine. Spin the distributor with the key on. The injectors should click. If you can't hear them, put a automotive stethoscope on each injector.

Another alternative is to get a noid light and test the injector leads.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/ww2.justanswer.com-1143-1346710982.1.jpg)

It is plugged in to the injector leads. If the light flickers, your injector circuit is fine.

They are available at your FLAPS.

[wrightee]

Remove the distributor. Hook an ground wire from the distributor to the engine. Spin the distributor with the key on. The injectors should click. If you can't hear them, put a automotive stethoscope on each injector.

Another alternative is to get a noid light and test the injector leads.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/ww2.justanswer.com-1143-1346710982.1.jpg)

It is plugged in to the injector leads. If the light flickers, your injector circuit is fine.

They are available at your FLAPS.

Thanks Clay - I had seen these on ebay before, but never made the purchase. I'll try this later in the week. When you say ground the distributor, is there a particular place that this needs to hook to, or just connect a wire to the distributor body and then engine?

[ClayPerrine]

Just a wire between the distributor and the engine is fine. Normally the distributor would ground through its body, but when you have it out, it can't.

[timothy_nd28]

He stated in a PM that his fuel injector last chance filters were now plugged with old rubber bits/sludge. I'm thinking since he replaced his FI harness, that the injectors are actually firing now. However, the fuel injectors are now plugged with debris.
After he flushes out the lines, and re-cleans these injectors, it should fire up.

[wrightee]

He stated in a PM that his fuel injector last chance filters were now plugged with old rubber bits/sludge. I'm thinking since he replaced his FI harness, that the injectors are actually firing now. However, the fuel injectors are now plugged with debris.
After he flushes out the lines, and re-cleans these injectors, it should fire up.

Following tim_nd's expert advice, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) I've narrowed this non-start problem down to seized injectors. I get a "click" from one, but the other three don't click. All show the same resistance, so I'm hoping that a good fuel injector cleaning/rebuild service may free up the stuck ones. Anyone have any recommendations on where to send them?

Also, I found this link that indicates most L-Jetronic injectors (from VWs) are interchangeable with mine, though the numbers on mine don't match up with this chart. The Porsche # is 0 280 150 102 and the VW # is 022 096 031C. Any of you L-Jet folks use any of these other injectors? (in case my bad ones can't be fixed)

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Injectors.html