Valve cover gasket sealing methods Options

[euro911]

I typically smear a little axle grease on both sides of the gasket, but I recently tried gasket-cinch on the cover side, dry on the head ... and it leaked - a lot.

I read an article a week ago that says always install both sides dry, so that's what I did last night.

Still leaking a little, but not too much.




I think I'll try the grease again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
.

[RoadGlue]

I'm with Rand on this one. Why did you bother asking here in the first place?

[jcd914]

I typically smear a little axle grease on both sides of the gasket, but I recently tried gasket-cinch on the cover side, dry on the head ... and it leaked - a lot.

I read an article a week ago that says always install them dry, so that's what I did last night. Leaking a little, but not too much.

I think I'll try the grease again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I typically use a combination of these 2.
I use gasketcinch on the cover side and some grease (swepco 101) on the head side.
This keeps the gasket in place and after the bale is snapped in place you can slide the cover around a little and make sure it is seated well.
This has worked for me for over 20 years.

Jim

[AE354803]

Now that we've addressed the sealing methods at length, how do you tighten your bale wires? Bend the entire assembly to basically make it more "M" shaped -----or----- just bend the small pieces at the end that fit into the head?

I'm leaning toward bending the "M" shape as it should be less stressful on the part.

[timothy_nd28]

Try a wood shim between the bale and the valve cover

[AE354803]

About an hour with a plumbers torch, a bucket of water, some wood and a vise grips and I increased the compression from the baling wires by 1/8"-3/32".

Couldn't come close to getting them on by hand, so hopefully this fixes the problem, as well as sealing up without RTV. I went with gasgacinch and a light layer of grease on sealing surface of the gasket.

Thanks everyone.

[euro911]

Let us know how it works out for you.

How well does the 2.0L T4 push your 912 around? Were you able to compare the performance against a stock 1.6L 912 engine?

[aircooledtechguy]

Let us know how it works out for you.

How well does the 2.0L T4 push your 912 around? Were you able to compare the performance against a stock 1.6L 912 engine?

I can't speak for his T4 powered 912, but I have converted several at my shop. I can tell you that it really makes them feel like a real Porsche once you get the stock 616 motor out of there. Don't get me wrong, a nice 616 motor runs well and pushes the car down the road just fine. The type-4 though, has so much more torque so it makes it a more pleasurable driver. On a street car, you rarely have to down shift if you are in the range of 2500-3000 rpms with the type4 installed. You can't really do that with a 616 motor since they normally don't make much power until you rev them over 3500-4000 (then they wake-up).

With the type-4 you just roll, on the gas and get pushed back in the seat. With the right 2270 or bigger, they are 911 eaters.

[euro911]

I have 2 spare freshly rebuilt 1.6L engines here and enough parts to build up a 1720 (with ceramic-coated pistons) ... but, I also plan to build up a spare 2.0L T4 to 'maybe' stuff into my 67 912 (that currently has a 2.0L /6 in it) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Thinking of all the oil I'll save - 9qts vs 4 qts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[AE354803]

Let us know how it works out for you.

How well does the 2.0L T4 push your 912 around? Were you able to compare the performance against a stock 1.6L 912 engine?

I can't speak for his T4 powered 912, but I have converted several at my shop. I can tell you that it really makes them feel like a real Porsche once you get the stock 616 motor out of there. Don't get me wrong, a nice 616 motor runs well and pushes the car down the road just fine. The type-4 though, has so much more torque so it makes it a more pleasurable driver. On a street car, you rarely have to down shift if you are in the range of 2500-3000 rpms with the type4 installed. You can't really do that with a 616 motor since they normally don't make much power until you rev them over 3500-4000 (then they wake-up).

With the type-4 you just roll, on the gas and get pushed back in the seat. With the right 2270 or bigger, they are 911 eaters.

It pushes the 912 really well. The transmission gears were changed to 914 gears (longer gearing) and it feels great.

There have been no leaks from the valve covers. I have to crack the case eventually to take care of the hydraulic lifters and cam and go back to solid so I guess that would be a good time for a mild upgrade. Definitely wouldn't hurt.

[Mikey914]

Got a little something to help out here-
New valve cover gaskets, made from a slightly denser and thicker material Solved my leakage problem.
$4.50 a set
I'm starting a GB thread, but they will be on the website

[euro911]

Great timing, I was Just getting ready to order some more. I'll order your fatter ones instead (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ctc911ctc]

Read this thread to try and stem the flow of oil,

1. Having the LOGO upside down is very important (ask me how I know)
2. Fat gaskets from 914rubber work great! I used a tiny bit of Permatex 80019 in the corners to hold it in place.

No leaks Yet!

YEA!