"Beauty" being a 'Beest'tach, Starter issuse |
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"Beauty" being a 'Beest'tach, Starter issuse |
majkos |
Sep 13 2012, 04:09 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 29-February 04 From: Mile High 914 Member No.: 1,729 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
like the title, Beauty being a PIA. before everybody put in "their" 2 cents worth, here's the break down, starter is FINE! ( can jump start the motor with wires, to relay and stater) has hot start relay put in, works FINE Battery is FINE, brand new I do get power to the starter thru the relay board, just FINE. problem? turn key, a very loud click, at starter. no rolling of the starter that's it. where else should I look? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
Eric_Shea |
Sep 13 2012, 04:11 PM
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#2
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Large cable from hot lead of starter to the + battery post. Clean "everything" and get new ends if need be.
That or the solenoid on the starter. |
ConeDodger |
Sep 13 2012, 04:12 PM
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#3
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Apex killer! Group: Members Posts: 23,592 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California |
Large cable from hot lead of starter to the + battery post. Clean "everything" and get new ends if need be. That or the solenoid on the starter. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
Jeffs9146 |
Sep 13 2012, 04:13 PM
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#4
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
Bad Grounds or low battery!
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Eric_Shea |
Sep 13 2012, 04:15 PM
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#5
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Yup... what Mr. "I Blew Off RRC" said. Check that braided ground strap on the tranny to the trunk floor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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wingnut86 |
Sep 13 2012, 04:16 PM
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#6
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...boola la boo boola boo... Group: Members Posts: 1,053 Joined: 22-April 10 From: South Carolina Member No.: 11,645 Region Association: South East States |
Yep.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Or...........Mayan calendar glitch 2 months early - Y2k like (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) |
majkos |
Sep 13 2012, 05:03 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 29-February 04 From: Mile High 914 Member No.: 1,729 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Large cable from hot lead of starter to the + battery post. Clean "everything" and get new ends if need be. That or the solenoid on the starter. I disconnect, assuming, every single ground strap I cold find,brush clean to freshen up "finish", after cleaning oil off a few, Ground strap to frame, film of oil was observed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) I had high hope THIS was it! Sadly, no. I do like the idea of a new line to the starter, but I can turn the starter just fine from underneath, not recommended, the actual kick start, scared the bleep! out of me! That's how I know it's fine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I'm still shaking. |
SLITS |
Sep 13 2012, 05:12 PM
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#8
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
The contacts in the solenoid could have finally given up. Even a hot start relay won't cure that.
I don't know if whacking it with a hammer will help 'cause it's not a Chevy, but you can most certainly try! |
majkos |
Sep 13 2012, 05:28 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 29-February 04 From: Mile High 914 Member No.: 1,729 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
The contacts in the solenoid could have finally given up. Even a hot start relay won't cure that. I don't know if whacking it with a hammer will help 'cause it's not a Chevy, but you can most certainly try! I (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) and then some, on the solenoid, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) anyhow, works fine, ( battery charger test, with starter out,solenoid checks out) stater re-install, same click issues, jump wire to relay and starter, kicks in and runs this is where I head to the bath room for tissue. Some weird stuff here. |
Eric_Shea |
Sep 13 2012, 05:30 PM
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#10
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Big line from the battery... just say'n. That or the solenoid.
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Rotary'14 |
Sep 13 2012, 05:30 PM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 753 Joined: 24-April 05 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 3,977 |
Measure the voltage on the solenoid wire (yellow) should be really close to battery + voltage when the key is turned to crank. If it's not close to the battery voltage you have a voltage drop thru that wire,, you can trace the wire back and clean all the contacts and connectors,, or run a new wire,, or run a "hot start assist" relay(oops you have one already,, but you should still see how much juice is activating your relay).
-Robert |
majkos |
Sep 13 2012, 05:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 29-February 04 From: Mile High 914 Member No.: 1,729 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
what's worse than your 914 on jacks?
Both of your 914's is on jackstand! |
SLITS |
Sep 13 2012, 05:41 PM
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#13
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Ok, you have solved your problem to a degree ... the solenoid is not getting enough power from the setup to "kick in".
Are the wires on the hot start relay connected correctly? Don't know which kind you have ... Bosch or Ford. Makes me wonder if your "hot start" relay has taken a dump. |
majkos |
Sep 13 2012, 05:44 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 29-February 04 From: Mile High 914 Member No.: 1,729 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Measure the voltage on the solenoid wire (yellow) should be really close to battery + voltage when the key is turned to crank. If it's not close to the battery voltage you have a voltage drop thru that wire,, you can trace the wire back and clean all the contacts and connectors,, or run a new wire,, or run a "hot start assist" relay(oops you have one already,, but you should still see how much juice is activating your relay). -Robert I've been wondering about the yellow wire all the way thru. able to test for power, with lite tester, with color lights for Ground, Green, and Red for power, throughout relay board. this is where why I cry for help, and you all pitch in, have to give what my 'cuz is sayin', because, dam! I'm stump. I'm going to try to check the voltage test, need to do some MacGiver trick Pretty soon I'm heading to Manitou Spring to work on Pieper 914/6 I do not need two non running 914's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) |
majkos |
Sep 13 2012, 05:47 PM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 29-February 04 From: Mile High 914 Member No.: 1,729 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Ok, you have solved your problem to a degree ... the solenoid is not getting enough power from the setup to "kick in". Are the wires on the hot start relay connected correctly? Don't know which kind you have ... Bosch or Ford. Makes me wonder if your "hot start" relay has taken a dump. I totally agree you Ron, I have one more relay, three prong, to test. saga continue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
Jeffs9146 |
Sep 13 2012, 05:55 PM
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#16
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
The hot start relay should have a large wire coming from the battery (you can use the one from the original solinoid) and then a large wire going to the post that is jumped to when you do the screw driver trick. Then the yellow wire would power the hot start relay which is grounded. This will bypass the original starter solinoid just like the screw driver trick does!
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majkos |
Sep 13 2012, 06:33 PM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,370 Joined: 29-February 04 From: Mile High 914 Member No.: 1,729 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
The hot start relay should have a large wire coming from the battery (you can use the one from the original solinoid) and then a large wire going to the post that is jumped to when you do the screw driver trick. Then the yellow wire would power the hot start relay which is grounded. This will bypass the original starter solinoid just like the screw driver trick does! You know, Jeff, (who shouda came to RRC (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) so I coulda met ya!) I wondered if I was missing something when I began to copy from the Green Machine, and pretty much suspected like my 'Cuz says, a long cable. another one wouldn't hurt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) how I miss it? and I remembered Ron mention something about x amont of cable needed for his kits. Problem with old school, what you see isn't always right. |
Mike Bellis |
Sep 13 2012, 06:35 PM
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#18
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
You can only test for voltage drop under load. You also need a multi meter set to voltage. It will be a 2 man job. You under the car with the meter and someone turning the key at the same time.
The starter wire is 40 years old, 30 ears past its intended life span. Every splice, any corrosion will contribute to voltage drop. Have you checked the seatbelt relay? That relay interrupts the wire. Most PO's do a hack splice to bypass it. Cut and re-splice it. |
mittelmotor |
Sep 13 2012, 06:41 PM
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#19
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 21-May 12 From: SoCal Member No.: 14,464 Region Association: None |
What year is your 914? Sometimes the seatbelt interlock relay can be problematic. Take out your passenger seat, locate the "silver box of death" relay, and then cut & splice the two thick-gauge yellow wires together. No more interlock, and less resistance for the starter circuit.
Worked like a charm for me...I was having a similar issue. |
Jeffs9146 |
Sep 13 2012, 06:52 PM
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#20
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
The hot start relay should have a large wire coming from the battery (you can use the one from the original solinoid) and then a large wire going to the post that is jumped to when you do the screw driver trick. Then the yellow wire would power the hot start relay which is grounded. This will bypass the original starter solinoid just like the screw driver trick does! You know, Jeff, (who shouda came to RRC (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) so I coulda met ya!) I wondered if I was missing something when I began to copy from the Green Machine, and pretty much suspected like my 'Cuz says, a long cable. another one wouldn't hurt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) how I miss it? and I remembered Ron mention something about x amont of cable needed for his kits. Problem with old school, what you see isn't always right. lol Sorry guys I was thinking about going but I just got back from Hawaii a few days before it started and I didn't want to push it and try to get there in one day!! Next time!! The car is running very reliably now a days but I still cant get my wife to ride in it! She says "its to small and to loud"! PS: I don't think it would click if it was the relay under the seat! |
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