1.8 ljet double Relay Options

[jim_hoyland]

... there is a thread on how to test a dual relay; all that is needed are a 9 v battery and two leads

interesting, would you have a link?

It's on the other board at http://www.914club.com/bbs2/index.php?show...=235816&hl= ...I can repost it here a little later if that would be suitable

[Drums66]

The original metal and newer plastic dual relay for the 914 work the same-from my experience. The main difference is in the bases. I prefer the square white base fittings. Also, there is a thread on how to test a dual relay; all that is needed are a 9 v battery and two leads

.....ECHO, from my experience also.....I prefer the metal
1's myself(this has been discussed, over&over)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif)(do searches man)

[914itis]

The original metal and newer plastic dual relay for the 914 work the same-from my experience. The main difference is in the bases. I prefer the square white base fittings. Also, there is a thread on how to test a dual relay; all that is needed are a 9 v battery and two leads

There are different pin assignments as well as different cases and plug configurations. Different part numbers, too.

The Cap'n

What is the pin assignment / part numbers based on? Year, ecu?

[jim_hoyland]

Jeff Bowlsby posted this on his web page :

http://bowlsby.net/914/WiringHarnesses/Har...FI_EC75-1.8.pdf

That for a '75 L-Jet, a '74 is slightly different

I've attached my dual relay diagram

[malcolm2]

Keep in mind there are more than one version, and they DO NOT interchange.

The Cap'n

CRAP...So what does one do when they have parts from each version?

Is that what I have?

[malcolm2]

I've attached my dual relay diagram

I tried the test and got clicks....They only clicked ONCE per touch of the battery. I attached one lead on both ends as described. Then the other lead had one end on the relay and the other end poised above the 9v battery. As I touched the battery I heard ONE click. Is that right?

Should the there be a continuous clicking while all the leads are made? I expected Click, Click, Click, Click. but just got Click.

BTW your connection numbers are good but their actual location compared to your drawing are a bit wacky. Kind of an upside down mirror???

Clark

[timothy_nd28]

No repeating clicking, just one click when you apply voltage to the pins explained in the test procedure.

The test you just performed only checks the coil parts on the dual relay. You really need a ohm meter and check resistances on the internal switches.

[Jaydebeers]

No current to thermo time sensor. Relay checks out ok but no power to, term 86 The diode between connection 86 & 86a might be shot. Did not attempt to open up relay. Does anyone know the value of that diode is? And would a feasible fix be to splice one in external to the relay?or am I stuck getting a whole new relay. It's all working otherwise. Any fix possible?

[timothy_nd28]

I don't see a diode between pins 86 and 86a on the dual relay, and I doubt the snubber diode is even bad. Start a new thread stating the problem you face

[Jaydebeers]

I don't see a diode between pins 86 and 86a on the dual relay, and I doubt the snubber diode is even bad. Start a new thread stating the problem you face

Thanks Timothy your correct was looking a wrong circuit. Stuck with it & everything checks out ok. The strange thing is my thermo time switch is marked "35deg C" & 12 sec. It takes about 5 cranks to start at around 55F & below It's a 78 super beetle btw but same circuit. Maybe I'm running too lean at warm temps? About 60F it fires right up less then a crank.

[timothy_nd28]

That is strange, 35 degrees Celsius is 90 some degrees F which would be too warm and useless for the cold start valve to activate. The cold start valve is activated thru the thermotime switch, typically in 30 degree weather. On a Ljet setup, pins 86a and 86 on the dual relay will both receive a momentary 12volts from the ignition switch. This voltage is only present when the key is turned to the "start" position, and voltage is lost when the key is released. You can verify this voltage by having a helper turn the key to start while you probe these pins with a DC voltmeter.
12 volts leaves pin 86 at the dual relay and sits idle at the thermotime switch. If the thermotime switch is cold enough, it will complete the circuit and inject 12volts to the 5th injector. Again, this is only dependent on temperature and how long you hold the key at the start position. Being that you are experiencing 55 degree weather, the thermotime switch should remain open which will keep the 5th injector off. I don't think this is your issue.

You could be running lean, start with checking for vacuum leaks. Check for proper fuel pressure. Make sure your distributor isn't too advanced. I don't know if this superbeatle has hydraulic valves or solid, if solid, check the valve lash.