The value of a VIN, a post of what ifs Options

[djm914-6]

OK, lets assume you buy a nicely restored chassis for $5000. Then you take all of the parts off your "worst for wear" driver and put them on that new chassis. Magically you now have a factory 914-6 in pretty good condition. Is it worth it?

What if you paid $5000 for your "worst for wear" driver; now you have $10k in this pretty good factory 914-6. Is it worth it?

What if you had put a whole bunch of money into your "worst for wear" driver and add it to the pretty good 914-6 total. Is it worth it?

Seriously though, I'm contemplating this sinerio right now. Is a VIN number really worth it?

[JoeSharpOld]

Try to save all sixs. There arnt enough of them left.
Nick if you don't sell on evil-bay PM me and maybe we can work something out instead of cutting up another one.
Joe

[nickg]

what are you talking about? the longitudes are in very good shape! the floor is only surface rusted!(and that is where it has no paint only!) it needs the jack posts repaired, they are strong enought to use still, just the lower plate was rusted, the car has less rust on it than the one that Rob ways is selling!, i will take a new set of pictures, the problem is that i only took shots of where there was any rust, i did not take any of where there wasn't ....whatever. as far as 2 chassis weled together, i thought that too. but here is the deal, show me the seam, you can't. it has had the dash and cowl clip replaced. this is the crap i get for trying to save a 6.....whatever

[nickg]

here is the right jack point

[nickg]

here is the sill directly above it

[nickg]

here is the battery area

[nickg]

another of the hell hole

[nickg]

here is the driver side inner rail...i can't see any bad rust

[nickg]

the firewall rust....most every northeast 914 has this from a loose window

[nickg]

here is the only spot on the floor with any rust, it is about the size of a quarter....this is not even in a place they rot, so this is easy to get a panel from another junker

[nickg]

this is the driver footwell, it is surface rustee, thuis is because it was never repainted....no holes and it is not thin....the car was not left out in the mud or anything. it was stored inside till i got it

[nickg]

look carefully at the welding seams in the next few pictures, they clearly show the sectioned in part of the cowl/post clip.(there is a little hole in this clip....it is not rust, it was drilled.....poorly

[nickg]

another closer

[nickg]

the hole

[nickg]

another of the seam

[SirAndy]

i have seen worse come back to life. much worse in fact.

if i had the parts to finish the car, that would be a good shell to start.
acid-dip it, repair it and off you go.
as for the front clip, you'll always be able to tell if the whole clip was replaced, especially since the tub is stripped.
another easy to spot clue, on a original /6, the wall between the front trunk and the gas tank did *NOT* have a hole for the washer hose in the lower left corner!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Andy

[nickg]

aside from that, i doubt you will find a 914-6 chassis in any condition for what i am asking...heck i offered it for 1000 to him

[SirAndy]

aside from that, i doubt you will find a 914-6 chassis in any condition for what i am asking...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[bob91403]

I don't know what he's complaining about. Looks damn decent for 1K. Where did he get the idea that it would cost another 4K to fix? He should buy a welder, some sheet metal, some stiffeners and go to town on it. Shouldn't cost more than 3k to make it real tight. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

I saw the pictures in an email David sent me, and suggested the chassis might be welded from two because the front was red and the rear yellow. It could be that ALL the yellow was stripped off the front and that is red oxide primer. In any case, it appears the problems are more extensive than Nick is suggesting from my limited perspective.
The jack post with the holes is heavily sand blasted, but it still appears that the surrounding metal is heavily corroded and the long. has a hole at the lower front edge of the jack post.
There is a sizable area of rust perf in the channel where the front trunk seal goes, along the inner edge of the fender. There is no right front fender.
It is always worse than it looks in low res pictures.
It is worth restoring, but to pay a professional to fix all the problems nicely would take at least 3K. The entire chassis needs to be stripped and repainted after the metal repair. There's another $2K or more. William Harris can tell us the cost of that since he is in the middle of it right now.
I have worked on quite a few northeast chassis', some worse and some not so bad. I have customers with genuine rust free chassis' under their unrestored well maintained cars, so you can't tell me this is a GOOD example of a northeast teener.
This -6 chassis is, at best, a typical example of a Northeast car that was marginally maintained over the years. The only thing redeeming about it is the VIN IMO.
You can certainly find a nice, driveable six for less than this car will cost to restore to similar condition.
If I had the cash I would consider buying it to restore, but I don't have to pay for the metal repair. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[william harris]

Media blasting (baking soda) the entire (I mean every piece, panel, interior, exterior, doors (inside doors) lids, etc - you know every damn part) and then priming with Dupont Variprime (zinc rich acid etch primer) is gonna run about $2,000. Then I plan on painting the little darling with the newest 2004-2005 Porsche Lapis Blue (paint code M5W)(hell Eric Sanders/Partsman to you - even supplied a new trim tag we will punch the "right" paint code on just to drive the concours wienners nuts). The media blasting removed all the body filler (not much) and my body guy is gonna shrink the metal back to avoid using body filler except to the smallest degree possible. Figure $5,000 for paint. Then Racer Chris and Jake Raby and Kit Carlson gonna have a rendevous with the 2.0, build the 2056, mix with the Tangerine Racing headers and maybe get me 125 hp of motivation. Just never, ever add up the receipts. I didn't even mention replacing all the rubber seals, having Auto International do the seats and door panels in leather, etc. etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)