Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Fuel pump relocation wiring question, the wiring is done I have a new question!
scott_in_nh
post Oct 14 2012, 08:56 AM
Post #1


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



So a couple of weeks ago I decided it was time to take care of a few projects on my 74 2.0 D-jet.

A PO moved the 3 port fuel pump up front under the steering rack, but never replaced the plastic fuel lines.

The fuel pump works ok, but is noisy and doesn’t hold pressure when I shut the car off.

The wiring for it was also cobbled – two wires were run through the tunnel and plugged into the original fuel pump plug, but apparently the positive wire failed so another wire was run from the relay board through the interior and to the pump.

It was still grounded through the tunnel wire and original pump harness.

I installed Tangerine SS fuel lines and replaced all other rubber lines I hadn’t already replaced and now I am installing a 2 port fuel pump and filter in the same location.

The layout proved quite challenging, but I think I have a good solution.

My question is can’t I just run the positive wire through the tunnel and ground the fuel pump in front?

I did a search and some refer to running “wires” (plural) through the tunnel and some talk about running “a wire”.

I just want to make sure I’m not overlooking something…..
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
2 Pages V  1 2 >  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies(1 - 19)
SLITS
post Oct 14 2012, 09:10 AM
Post #2


"This Utah shit is HARSH!"
**********

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 13,602
Joined: 22-February 04
From: SoCal Mountains ...
Member No.: 1,696
Region Association: None



Why not? The original ground point is the multi-ground under the relay plate. So pick up the positive from the harness (I ran it back thru the tunnel) and ground the pump where you have relocated it.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
reharvey
post Oct 14 2012, 01:50 PM
Post #3


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 573
Joined: 16-July 08
From: N. E. Ohio
Member No.: 9,308
Region Association: North East States



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I've done it this way on five cars without a problem. Ray
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SirAndy
post Oct 14 2012, 01:58 PM
Post #4


Resident German
*************************

Group: Admin
Posts: 41,657
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California



QUOTE(scott_in_nh @ Oct 14 2012, 07:56 AM) *
My question is can’t I just run the positive wire through the tunnel and ground the fuel pump in front?

Doesn't the FI brain control the pump by controlling the GROUND???
In which case your pump would run all the time as soon as you turn on the key ...


It's been a while since i dealt with the stock D-Jet, so i could be wrong on that.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
timothy_nd28
post Oct 14 2012, 02:34 PM
Post #5


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,299
Joined: 25-September 07
From: IN
Member No.: 8,154
Region Association: Upper MidWest



IMO, the fuel pump is too important to be not grounded correctly. I ran heavy gauge wire from the neg post of the battery to the fuel pump area. This wire was then grounded to the body near the fuel pump. Then I ran a small jumper from the new body ground to my fuel pump. It gives me peace of mind having a dedicated ground for my pump, yes it may be overkill.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Oct 14 2012, 03:52 PM
Post #6


914 Idiot
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 14,990
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California



QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 14 2012, 12:58 PM) *

Doesn't the FI brain control the pump by controlling the GROUND???


Nope. The FI grounds a pin on the relay, which sends power to the pump or not. So it controls power to the pump, by controlling the ground to the relay.

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SirAndy
post Oct 14 2012, 09:44 PM
Post #7


Resident German
*************************

Group: Admin
Posts: 41,657
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California



QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 14 2012, 02:52 PM) *
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 14 2012, 12:58 PM) *
Doesn't the FI brain control the pump by controlling the GROUND???


Nope. The FI grounds a pin on the relay, which sends power to the pump or not. So it controls power to the pump, by controlling the ground to the relay.

Aha, i knew there was something about the brain and ground for the pump. Ground for the relay it is then, makes sense.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scott_in_nh
post Oct 15 2012, 07:17 AM
Post #8


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 14 2012, 11:44 PM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 14 2012, 02:52 PM) *
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 14 2012, 12:58 PM) *
Doesn't the FI brain control the pump by controlling the GROUND???


Nope. The FI grounds a pin on the relay, which sends power to the pump or not. So it controls power to the pump, by controlling the ground to the relay.

Aha, i knew there was something about the brain and ground for the pump. Ground for the relay it is then, makes sense.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


Thanks for clearing that up!
What a pain upgrading the fuel system has been!
Tangerine's SS lines went in easy enough, but finding room for a 2 port pump and filter under the steeering rack AND getting it plumbed to the tank AND fixing poor work by PO's ended up being more difficult then drilling and welding the from swaybar mounts (my other project while the tank was out)...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scott_in_nh
post Oct 15 2012, 05:46 PM
Post #9


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



Getting closer - the new pump is in, wired and runs properly when the key is turned on.
I also test fitted the last two hoses, the ones that actually go to the tank.



Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scott_in_nh
post Oct 17 2012, 07:53 AM
Post #10


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



So there are no gaskets (rubber washer?) between the pipes and the fuel tank (#11 and 13)
What are my options? The hardware store has rubber washers - what is compatible?



Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SLITS
post Oct 17 2012, 09:53 AM
Post #11


"This Utah shit is HARSH!"
**********

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 13,602
Joined: 22-February 04
From: SoCal Mountains ...
Member No.: 1,696
Region Association: None



There are fibre washers (fiber if you are Amerikan) .. whether they are available or not I can't say.

Part Numbers are:

E 914 201 147 10 (#11)

E 311 201 235 A (#13)

Whether an aluminum or copper crush washer would work I won't address.

If any flexible material was to be used, it should be Viton (Ethanol :puke: added fuels ya know).
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
gothspeed
post Oct 17 2012, 10:40 AM
Post #12


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,539
Joined: 3-February 09
From: SoCal
Member No.: 10,019
Region Association: None



QUOTE(scott_in_nh @ Oct 14 2012, 07:56 AM) *

.......................................
I installed Tangerine SS fuel lines and replaced all other rubber lines I hadn’t already replaced and now I am installing a 2 port fuel pump and filter in the same location.

The layout proved quite challenging, but I think I have a good solution.

My question is can’t I just run the positive wire through the tunnel and ground the fuel pump in front?

I did a search and some refer to running “wires” (plural) through the tunnel and some talk about running “a wire”.

I just want to make sure I’m not overlooking something…..

+1 .......... I am in the midst of doing this fuel pump 'wiring' myself ......... where or how did you get the wire past the engine firewall into the tunnel? Did you drill a new hole with a grommet?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scott_in_nh
post Oct 17 2012, 11:02 AM
Post #13


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



QUOTE(gothspeed @ Oct 17 2012, 12:40 PM) *

QUOTE(scott_in_nh @ Oct 14 2012, 07:56 AM) *

.......................................
I installed Tangerine SS fuel lines and replaced all other rubber lines I hadn’t already replaced and now I am installing a 2 port fuel pump and filter in the same location.

The layout proved quite challenging, but I think I have a good solution.

My question is can’t I just run the positive wire through the tunnel and ground the fuel pump in front?

I did a search and some refer to running “wires” (plural) through the tunnel and some talk about running “a wire”.

I just want to make sure I’m not overlooking something…..

+1 .......... I am in the midst of doing this fuel pump 'wiring' myself ......... where or how did you get the wire past the engine firewall into the tunnel? Did you drill a new hole with a grommet?


yes - that is exactly what I did!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scott_in_nh
post Oct 17 2012, 11:02 AM
Post #14


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



QUOTE(SLITS @ Oct 17 2012, 11:53 AM) *

There are fibre washers (fiber if you are Amerikan) .. whether they are available or not I can't say.

Part Numbers are:

E 914 201 147 10 (#11)

E 311 201 235 A (#13)

Whether an aluminum or copper crush washer would work I won't address.

If any flexible material was to be used, it should be Viton (Ethanol :puke: added fuels ya know).


viton it is - thanks
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Kraftwerk
post Oct 19 2012, 08:45 PM
Post #15


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 195
Joined: 6-September 07
From: Bbbbbrroooklynnn
Member No.: 8,085



Hey Scott,
So how did it go?
I might attempt the relocation pretty soon before it gets too cold here.
What did you use for the washers at # 11 & #13?
Did the tank just "lift out" or did you have to disconnect 11 & 13 first?

thanks!


User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Nozzle
post Oct 20 2012, 07:00 AM
Post #16


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 158
Joined: 6-November 08
From: Lexington Park, Maryland
Member No.: 9,725
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



I'm in exactly the same situation, with a complete fuel system refurbish in process. Seems to be a common theme these days. At any rate this is the first time I've tried something like this and I'm using the standard AA fuel pump relocation kit for a stock '73 D-Jet. I have some questions based on replies to this thread:

Why not just run both ground and positive leads from the engine compartment to the steering rack area? The kit I got from AA supplies a combination wire to do this and I'm too much of an electrical novice to know why this isn't recommended here.

Why are the copper crush washers for the supply and return that also came with the kit again not recommended?

Thanks,

John
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 20 2012, 07:09 AM
Post #17


I drive my car everyday
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,300
Joined: 8-May 03
From: Tulsa, Ok.
Member No.: 666



the washers for the lines at the tank are available at the Bughaus.com.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scott_in_nh
post Oct 24 2012, 09:17 AM
Post #18


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



QUOTE(Kraftwerk @ Oct 19 2012, 10:45 PM) *

Hey Scott,
So how did it go?
I might attempt the relocation pretty soon before it gets too cold here.
What did you use for the washers at # 11 & #13?
Did the tank just "lift out" or did you have to disconnect 11 & 13 first?

thanks!


I only had to disconnect the hoses from the tank fittings.
I pulled the fittings from the tank to check the screen and to better aim them where I need them.
If I knew I was going to get sidetracked and the car would still be on stands I would have ordered the correct fiber washers.
The one under the screen I re-used, the one under the return I replaced with a viton washer I made.
I don't have gas in it yet - hopefully it is well sealed!
Getting the fuel lines to and from the two port pump under the steering rack was the hardest part of this project.
In some ways drilling and welding in the sway bar mounts was easier!
I only ran the positive lead through the tunnel, I grounded to the fuel pump mount on the inside under the tank.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
gothspeed
post Oct 24 2012, 10:19 AM
Post #19


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,539
Joined: 3-February 09
From: SoCal
Member No.: 10,019
Region Association: None



Scott, thanks for following up on your progress! I have finally mounted my fuel pump under the steering rack. So far I think I will be running 12v power to the pump from the battery using a relay. The relay will in turn be triggered by the factory harness wires for the orignal fuel pump.

Since I am going with carbs for now, I will be going with the extra ground from the relay panel in the engine compartment.

Did you run fuel pump power with the 'key only' or did you also include an oil pressure switch to control power to the pump? If you included an oil switch in the circuit, how was it done?

I am under the impression the the swtich is open under pressure, which is the opposite of what one would need to complete the circuit.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scott_in_nh
post Oct 27 2012, 07:18 AM
Post #20


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 808
Joined: 10-December 10
From: Hampton, NH
Member No.: 12,471
Region Association: North East States



QUOTE(gothspeed @ Oct 24 2012, 12:19 PM) *

Scott, thanks for following up on your progress! I have finally mounted my fuel pump under the steering rack. So far I think I will be running 12v power to the pump from the battery using a relay. The relay will in turn be triggered by the factory harness wires for the orignal fuel pump.

Since I am going with carbs for now, I will be going with the extra ground from the relay panel in the engine compartment.

Did you run fuel pump power with the 'key only' or did you also include an oil pressure switch to control power to the pump? If you included an oil switch in the circuit, how was it done?

I am under the impression the the swtich is open under pressure, which is the opposite of what one would need to complete the circuit.


I am running D-jet so I am wired to the fuel pump terminal on the relay board.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

2 Pages V  1 2 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 25th May 2024 - 01:27 PM