Car just dies, Then hard to start and won't idle Options

[vonsteigerho]

I think your right, too much fuel

Sounds like a bad fuel injector. Car runs fine until it warms up then just loses power and dies. Runs fine again once it cools down.

[Black22]

I think your right, too much fuel

Sounds like a bad fuel injector. Car runs fine until it warms up then just loses power and dies. Runs fine again once it cools down.

I'm pretty sure these cars will run on 1 or 2 cylinders. I'm not sure a bad injector can cause this.

This engine has 500 miles on it. All injectors are NEW. Not refurbished but NEW. Took a lot of searching but I managed to find 4 of them over a year of parts hoarding.

I had a stuck injector once. White smoke screen out the back, ran like crap all he time. Not the case here.

[vonsteigerho]

I know it sounds crazy. Because you have new injectors, it probably isn't your problem. However, a bad injector will cause the car will do exactly what you describe. Perhaps one injector stuck open causes the others not to get sufficient pressure?

I'm searching for some online discussion on the issue because it does sound far fetched.

Hans

[timothy_nd28]

I refuse to believe that it can be anything else other than the AFM. We just went thru this engine with a fine tooth comb, a few months ago. Since then, your car was working beautifully, till it backfired a few weeks ago. Your car continued to work, despite the broken AFM. Now, with a new (rebuilt) AFM installed, things aren't the same. This is why I will point my finger to the AFM, till proven otherwise.
You say that the car turns off suddenly, as if someone turns the ignition key to off. Your ignition coil is telling a different story, as its not seeing a drop in voltage. However, we never tested the secondary side of your ignition coil. If you have a timing light, go ahead and connect it to plug 1. Then use some electrical tape, and tape the trigger so it's always on. Now, with your voltmeter, try to probe with your meter lead at the Dual Relay at pin 88b. 88B supply's voltage to your Brain

Now with your engine running, Have the timing light flashing at you, then have your voltmeter closeby. You should see 12vdc with the engine running and a bunch of flashes. When your engine starts to stall, be very observant and see which one you lose. If it is the ignition, you'll notice the loss of flash from the timing light. If your ECU is turning off for whatever reason, you'll lose voltage at pin 88b

Sorry for not responding last night, I was too fixated with the ND game, go Irish!!

[Black22]

My Grandfather and Grandmother are diehard ND fans.
Me...I'm a USC Trojan fan! Fun time with the family at those games.

On to the car.

Went to the G&R swapmeet this morning. I bought a replacement distributor, a pertronix unit, a set of schnorr washers, a new CHT sensor and an AFM (complete with airbox) for $90!!!!

First installed the CHT and started car. Idled for 40 minutes before shutting down.

Installed new AFM and idled for 20 minutes...the old AFM would have quit after 5! So I set the idle mixture and drive around the block...I never quit!!!!

I'll have to verify the fix after a full day of driving, but for now its good!

Best part is, I picked up the AFM $15!!! Opened up the black cover and it is a virgin!! The contacts and board look better than my rebuild! Unbelievable!

Just emailed Fuel Injection Corp. to inform them they sent me a bunk AFM...we'll see how they handle it.

Thanks for the I put Tim!

I gotta find out who I bought that AFM from...I owe him a beer. No it wasn't Gary from Big Bear Ron...he was selling the complete L-jet system...never did ask how much...didn't want to be tempted!

[timothy_nd28]

I have a ton of respect for USC, as this is my favorite rivalry games. No matter who is ranked what, it is ALWAYS a very fun game to watch.

Sounds like you got a excellent deal with a working AFM. Towards your rebuilt AFM, I don't think it's broken, it is just not calibrated right. Here is a page from the Ljet manual pertaining to the AFM. Try ohming the temp sensor within the AFM before sending it back.

[Black22]

I have a ton of respect for USC, as this is my favorite rivalry games. No matter who is ranked what, it is ALWAYS a very fun game to watch.

Sounds like you got a excellent deal with a working AFM. Towards your rebuilt AFM, I don't think it's broken, it is just not calibrated right. Here is a page from the Ljet manual pertaining to the AFM. Try ohming the temp sensor within the AFM before sending it back.

Is that Cap'n Krusty's L-jet PDF? If so would you mind sending it to me at
mikewizblack@gmail.com

Thanks again for all of you L-jet knowledge.

I'll try this out.

[76-914]

Good job, Mike. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Good thing you got sick Sunday.

[timothy_nd28]

Being that you're a USC fan, I'm not sure if I can support you any longer! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Black22]

Good job, Mike. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Good thing you got sick Sunday.

Cough cough

Being that you're a USC fan, I'm not sure if I can support you any longer! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[timothy_nd28]

So what was the end result? Did the rebuilder take back the AFM? Is your swap meet AFM working good?

[Black22]

So what was the end result? Did the rebuilder take back the AFM? Is your swap meet AFM working good?

Bad AFM...Fuel Injection Corp. is going to do a UPS call back to pick up defective unit. They say they have to "test" it first. No resolution there.

Swap meet AFM is working sweet! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) It was actually lean and after I adjusted it, I'm at 13.8 idle, 13.8 cruise and 12.2 WOT! Best numbers yet! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)