260deg oil temp after warm up, Fixed Updated page 1 Options

[gunny]

I have a 1976 2.0 Djet stock. I just purchased the car last month.


After a complete warmup after 20+ min of driving the oil temp (measured using dipstick gage) reaches 260 and stay there for the rest of the ride. I've gone for about a 1 hour ride. I have all of the tins and the flaps work and are fully open after a few minuites of driving. I've changed the oil (just wanted to make sure oil is fresh after purchase 10W40). The motor runs good and idles smooth even at 260deg.


I have checked the following:

1. Timing set to 27 deg at 3500RPM with vac lines disconected.
2. Timing does advance when accelerating (I also conected a hand vac to test the advance on the distributor)
3. Fuel preasure at @35psi (I will reduce to 29-30 today)
4. No vacuum leaks
5. I've checked the presure sensor for vacuum leaks and resistance across the windings and all were good.

I have a reciept from a reputable repair shop where the previous owner had the valves adjusted and tune up within 500 miles of my purchase.

I reduced the fuel preasure to 31 and the temp only went up to 240 after a long run 25 miles and 10 of that on the interstate with RPMs 3500-4000.
My guess is that the preasue was to high and the injectors couldn't overcome the presure to open enough causing a lean condition. I'm going to lower to 29lbs to see if I see more benifit. I hope that none of the injectors were damaged, when I turn the car off the preasure holds for a long time before it bleads down.


What do I check next? Thanks for all of the help. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Problem solved. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
I decied to clean up the engine compartment so I started with getting ride of the decel valve by plugging up the connections at the intake and removing the rest. Then I noticed that a previous owner conected the vacuum line that orginally went from the fan shroud to the charcol canister and conected it directly from the fan shroud to the air intake. This was bad for 2 resons, 1 unfiltered air was going from the fan to the throttle body and 2 air that should be going to cool the oil cooler was being sucked out by the intake. I plugged both ends and the temp now stays arround 200 even after an hour on the interstate. The temp did go to about 210 when I was doing about 4000 rpms for 20 miles but it fell back to 200 when I went back below 3500 rpms.

[VaccaRabite]

That is too hot. About the hottest you want to see is 230 for oil temps.

Is your oil cooler clean? Or filled with crud between the cooling vanes?

Zach

[type47]

That is too hot.

Is your oil cooler clean? Or filled with crud between the cooling vanes?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) ... mouse nests over the oil cooler? (... or some other obstruction to air flow...)

[gunny]

That is too hot. About the hottest you want to see is 230 for oil temps.

Is your oil cooler clean? Or filled with crud between the cooling vanes?

Zach

As best I can tell from underneath the oil cooler is clean, I tred using compressed air to clean it out and nothing came out. When running I can feel a lot of air being blown down from the top of the motor.

[Mikey914]

It's the oil cooler, or the temp sender is not correctly calibrated.

[VaccaRabite]

Or there is too much pressure and the cooler is being closed out of the circuit.

What is your oil pressure when cruising?
Are you running a big pump? Or stock?

Zach

[gunny]

Or there is too much pressure and the cooler is being closed out of the circuit.

What is your oil pressure when cruising?
Are you running a big pump? Or stock?

Zach

I believe I have a stock oil pump, I do not have an oil presure gage except the light. does the motor have to come out to change out the oil pump?

[914itis]

Or there is too much pressure and the cooler is being closed out of the circuit.

What is your oil pressure when cruising?
Are you running a big pump? Or stock?

Zach

I believe I have a stock oil pump, I do not have an oil presure gage except the light. does the motor have to come out to change out the oil pump?

It can be done but much easier with the motor off. You will have to remove the fan and it's sitting behind it .

[Trekkor]

Verify that the temps you see are accurate.
You can use an infrared thermometer.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i944.photobucket.com-1413-1352318520.1.jpg)

Shoot the oil filter body when warmed up.


KT

[gunny]

Verify that the temps you see are accurate.
You can use an infrared thermometer.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i944.photobucket.com-1413-1352318520.1.jpg)

Shoot the oil filter body when warmed up.


KT

I have a dipstick thermometer

[Ferg]

boil some water and see if the dipstick gauge is accurate, likely it is, but worth a shot.

Is it still running the smog pump?

[gunny]

boil some water and see if the dipstick gauge is accurate, likely it is, but worth a shot.

Is it still running the smog pump?

I do not have the smog pump.
Any other suggestions

[Gint]

boil some water and see if the dipstick gauge is accurate, likely it is, but worth a shot.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Since your not familiar with the gauge, boil it and see.

[Ferg]

Get a inspection mirror and check the fan, I've seen junk ingested down there not visible topside.

Other than that, it's time to get it on a tailpipe sniffer and see if it's going lean or something odd due to bad MPS or ???

[Krieger]

Verify that the flap that closes over the cooler is going all the way down over the cooler. I just had this problem. My oil temps all of a sudden were 20* hotter for no good reason. If the coil is mounted on the tin over cylinder #4 remove the rear mounting screw for the coil. Put a long thin screwdriver into the hole and push on the edge of that cooling flap to see if it moves down. Mine would not. I needed to remove the tin on that side to remove a piece of plastic that got sucked in and wedged. Another possibility according to Mcmark, the rod that connects the cooling flaps is twisted.

[gunny]

Verify that the flap that closes over the cooler is going all the way down over the cooler. I just had this problem. My oil temps all of a sudden were 20* hotter for no good reason. If the coil is mounted on the tin over cylinder #4 remove the rear mounting screw for the coil. Put a long thin screwdriver into the hole and push on the edge of that cooling flap to see if it moves down. Mine would not. I needed to remove the tin on that side to remove a piece of plastic that got sucked in and wedged. Another possibility according to Mcmark, the rod that connects the cooling flaps is twisted.

I can hear the flap move, could missing gromits around the head temp sensor contribut higher temps?

[Dave_Darling]

It is unlikely that they would contribute to higher oil temps. Higher head temps, possibly.

Inspect the fan, make sure the plug in the timing hole in the fan shroud is capped. Make sure the cooling flaps open all the way. Verify your thermometer; I think you're close enough to sea level that water should still boil right around 212F.

Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge (hopefully you can borrow one) to check the oil pressure. The pressure will go down as the oil warms up, and you don't want it much if any under 10 PSI at idle. (The light will usually go on at about 3 PSI, which is very low indeed.)

After that, you may need to pull off the right-side engine tin and inspect everything.

At an actual temperature of 260F, most oils will be failing in some way. Either breaking down, or losing pressure or viscosity or film strength. If that is how hot your oil actually gets, you need to do something about it.

--DD

[gunny]

It's amazing how important the rubber plugs in the are for cooling. I seated all of the spark plug seals, installed a oil presure boot ( had a new one in my box) and made a seal for the head temp sensor hole. Now after 30+ miles the temp never went above 220. This new car to me is a learning experance. The previous owners were not mechanically inclined. I do know how to do my research ( another engineer) . Thanks for all of the help

[Trekkor]

I'd be happier with temps between 180-190° under normal conditions and max of 220° on a very hot day while track driving.


KT

[gunny]

I'd be happier with temps between 180-190° under normal conditions and max of 220° on a very hot day while track driving.


KT

I feel the same way. I will continue to look for things that are making it run this hot. I only have the original oil cooler. Looking at the tins it looks like someone took them off while the motor was in the car and didn't get them back on correctly. On the passenger side the tin is Lower than the seal by about 1/2 inch.

More work to do on this car, I guess it will never end. I bought it to give something to do, I got want I was looking for. I could spend the next few months taking it apart cleaning it and putting it back together correctly.