Hot wiring a 6 conversion, A rusty crusty one followed me home Options

[mr914]

A 6 conversion followed me home this year

Now it's time to start fiddling with it and get it to start

History
Converted in mid 80's buy reputable shop
Owner also owned a custom car audio shop and used 6 as demo vehicle
At one time had 12 speakers, multiple amps, f/r radar, hidden radio, alarm, dozens of switches
Getty dash
PO sent it to body shop - sat inside for years
PO went bankrupt - shop pushed out back - outside....
Body Shop went under - sold to 944 guy who thought he could restore a 914.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Pedals frozen, most recent PO sprayed WD-40 or equivalent and stomped on the pedal..
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) instant Fred Flintstone brakes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

The good...
Getty dash
2.2-2.4 w webers. Local shop that worked on it in the 80s said the PO kept coming back for more power. Cams etc...
Factory tank in red/pink primer
Has a quick 6 mount
Appears to be factory oil lines

Current state
I drug the car home

Unseized the webers
Pulled the gas tank
Changed the oil and cranked it a few times without turning the ignition on

Now it's time to get it to fart. With the ignition on, I have no voltage to the coil.

I can't locate a cd box to mds ignition. Just an alarm horn where the cd box would be.

The car needs pans, longitudinal s on both sides and I'm not going to fix the body...

Any suggestions on how to fire the engine without fiddling with the other electronics in the car?

Can I just run a wire from the pos post of the battery to the coil and fuel pump and use a remote starter?

Or do I need to jumper it at the relay board?

[mr914]

More pics

Yes that is the master cylinder and asphalt

[mr914]

New custom stiffening kit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Trekkor]

Could be a fun project.

Could be insane...


KT

[mr914]

Custom (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif) wiring...

Wrapped and so far same colors of wires used (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[mr914]

I AM NOT GOING TO FIX THE RED CAR

Thinking about pulling the Getty Dash and putting it in my 6

Perhaps, I'll pull the driveline and oil tank and put it in my 71-4

First goal is to start the motor with either, then a little gas

Then run a cup or so thru the fuel pump and carbs..... With the motor running of course

I'm just trying to come up with a method to bypass the electrical bs and make it run for a few minutes


Then it's, pull and broom rest or broom it all...


Besides, I already have one on the rotisserie (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Don't need another (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[mr914]

Looks like it has fiberglass SC flares on the rear and nothing on the front (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[r_towle]

If its old school, jumper a wire to the coil and one to the fuel pump.
You will have no control over the motor to shut it off, so put those two connectors in an easy to reach location to be able to yank them if the fuel line start spraying fuel all over the place.

I would suggest you fire up the fuel pump and check for leaks first.
Then hot wire the coil....

If you use a remote start switch, just hook everything up to the battery so you can simply yank all three connectors in an emergency.

I would also suggest you be prepared to yank the main ground off the battery just incase the car keeps running...so have that wrench right there.

Every year I have to start my dual battery diesel plow truck I get the pucker factor when it keeps turning over with no key....
Its a low battery thing, the starter gets stuck.
Cranks till it kills two batteries, or the starter, or relay melts...or "how fast can I pull two grounds off...and they need to be super tight to crank it"

Fire supression equipment handy may not be a bad idea....
Not that its EVER happened to me before....no no.

rich

[mr914]

Planning on using bullet style connectors and leaving the neg terminal loose.

Good point in fuel lines, as I'm not fixing the body. Pulling the fuel pump and a couple of short lines makes sense

[r_towle]

I would suggest you run it out of a gas can....just so you know the fuel is clean.
Even a known good fuel pump will do the job, and not the one you got with the car.

Carb fuel pumps can be had for short money at the local parts store.

rich

[Jgilliam914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[monkeyboy]

Get some photos of the audio system. Some of that old Alpine stuff is now considered classic. If you aren't looking to keep it, I can tell you where to sell it to get the most money.

[jeff]

Why chance hurting the engine just to run it? Remove it do a leak down ,adjust the valves, check the float levels in those webers ,look at the plugs.... If you run it and there's a problem it will just cost more in the end..... I'd be dying to hear it and drive it also...

[mskala]

You don't need CDI, just find a bosch blue coil or equivalent. One wire to
battery, one wire to dist points.

[mr914]

I really do appreciate everyones thoughts and comments on my challenge. a few comments to clarify.

Gas tank has been removed weeks ago, have no other low pressure fuel pumps, just mech FI, afc and mps pumps.

I know the 356 guys can gravity feed their motors on a test stand. Can I do that with triple webers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Trying to drive it is impossible, due to the Fred Flintstone braking system. I.e. hole in the floor where the pedal cluster should mount, rusted linkage, etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) my hat off to you if you think you could take it out for a test beat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I have no idea if there is a cd box in the car, but I have found a protective box under the dash where this suspect the alarm box might live.

The goal is to fire the motor for a few seconds, listen for knocks, etc. before I pull it.

If there's a problem, I'll consider selling the motor as a core, keep the webers for when the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) MFI soots craps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) or buy a nice 3.0 or bigger motor.

I already have enough projects (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Mark Henry]

I know the 356 guys can gravity feed their motors on a test stand. Can I do that with triple webers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Yes BUT, you must make sure the floats and needle valves are not stuck or the carbs will overflow. You should clean the carbs first. I'd clean everything (oil and filter change as well) before I tried this, not cleaning it might waste a good engine.

Dumping the oil should tell you right away if there's water in the engine.

[mr914]

Thanks! Mark Henry. thats good to know

I forgot to note, that then motor was turned over by hand, spins freely. Cranks freely with starter.

There was some oil in the water when the oil plug was removed. 10 qts water and 8 qts oil. As measured by my 12 quart drain pan (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Carbs were somewhat seized, removed them, applied some heat from my trusty heat gun, first to separate carbs from manifolds, couple of gentle taps and the carbs and manifolds were separated and as a bonus, the carbs were un-seized (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Pulled top of carbs off, and floats were not crushed and moved freely.

Bolted them back on and that is were we are...

I'm sure that if this car didn't have all the add on custom electronic gizmots, I'd have spark and have decided what to do with the car

[Jeffs9146]

Thanks! Mark Henry. thats good to know

I forgot to note, that then motor was turned over by hand, spins freely. Cranks freely with starter.

There was some oil in the water when the oil plug was removed. 10 qts water and 8 qts oil. As measured by my 12 quart drain pan (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Carbs were somewhat seized, removed them, applied some heat from my trusty heat gun, first to separate carbs from manifolds, couple of gentle taps and the carbs and manifolds were separated and as a bonus, the carbs were un-seized (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Pulled top of carbs off, and floats were not crushed and moved freely.

Bolted them back on and that is were we are...

I'm sure that if this car didn't have all the add on custom electronic gizmots, I'd have spark and have decided what to do with the car

Water in the OIL (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

I would be very conserned about that!

[xsurfer]

I wouldn't use either. There shouldn't be a need. You can take the ignition out separate the the switch from the lock then use a screw driver to operate the switch. Easy!

Thanks! Mark Henry. thats good to know

I forgot to note, that then motor was turned over by hand, spins freely. Cranks freely with starter.

There was some oil in the water when the oil plug was removed. 10 qts water and 8 qts oil. As measured by my 12 quart drain pan (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Carbs were somewhat seized, removed them, applied some heat from my trusty heat gun, first to separate carbs from manifolds, couple of gentle taps and the carbs and manifolds were separated and as a bonus, the carbs were un-seized (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Pulled top of carbs off, and floats were not crushed and moved freely.

Bolted them back on and that is were we are...

I'm sure that if this car didn't have all the add on custom electronic gizmots, I'd have spark and have decided what to do with the car

[Mark Henry]

There was some oil in the water when the oil plug was removed. 10 qts water and 8 qts oil. As measured by my 12 quart drain pan (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

That's a real bad sign and I kind of what I expected it when a /6 is left outside for years.
I real doubt you are going to find it to be a good engine. In fact you may save more parts by just tearing it down.

2.7's cores are not worth much, if the crank is std/std it's a few bucks and the carbs are worth money in any condition, of course more if in good condition. if there was water in the oil tank you will never get every drop of water out and it could be full of rust.

Really if I was going to attempt to start it I would take it out put it on my test stand do a cold compression test first. Then to start it I'd use a whole different (known clean) oil tank and fresh oil/filter. I'd also try to clean out the bottom of the case as best I could and I'd check the cam timing and chains/tensioners as well.

In reality personally I'd most likely just tear it down.

Good luck.