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> Lifter pitting
rudedude
post Jan 16 2013, 06:32 PM
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How much pitting is allowable when reusing? These have maybe 10,000 miles running with an elgin 6708 cam. The other 5 have no pitting. The cam has no wear. Can I reuse these or should I replace them all?

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Jule

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reharvey
post Jan 16 2013, 07:13 PM
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QUOTE(rudedude @ Jan 16 2013, 07:32 PM) *

How much pitting is allowable when reusing? These have maybe 10,000 miles running with an elgin 6708 cam. The other 5 have no pitting. The cam has no wear. Can I reuse these or should I replace them all?

Thanks,
Jule

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I would not reuse those lifters. I had a similar problem with a set of Web-Cam lifters. They had 5000 miles on them.
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toolguy
post Jan 16 2013, 10:11 PM
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Think about the uneven surface in the terms of it being a cutting edge. . it's just wiping out the face of the cam lobe. .
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CG-914
post Jan 16 2013, 11:15 PM
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QUOTE(toolguy @ Jan 16 2013, 11:11 PM) *

Think about the uneven surface in the terms of it being a cutting edge. . it's just wiping out the face of the cam lobe. .

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rudedude
post Jan 17 2013, 06:13 AM
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Thanks for advice.
Who has the best lifters?
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Mark Henry
post Jan 17 2013, 06:50 AM
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QUOTE(rudedude @ Jan 17 2013, 07:13 AM) *

Thanks for advice.
Who has the best lifters?

Lifter/cam issues have been a big problem for a long time now, I would phone Elgin and get them from them or use the ones they recommend.
2nd choice would be to get them from aircooled.net with the SLR option.

Reality is reusing the old is a crapshoot, as a builder I'd just buy a new matched cam and lifters.
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DBCooper
post Jan 17 2013, 07:04 AM
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Absolutely, new lifters AND cam. You may not see wear on the cam lobes, but those lifters have already had some effect, and once they start to go it doesn't take long. And it only takes one lobe.

I say that because I personally don't like taking engines apart more than is necessary, but in fact I do know some people who think it's fun.
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yeahmag
post Jan 17 2013, 12:15 PM
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I had good luck in the past with Scat "Lube-a-Lobe" lifters. My new lifters that came from Raby have the same EDM hole in them. RAT claim to have the lifters resurfaced by someone. I'd personally talk to John Connolly at aircooled.net if I didn't buy the entire kit from Jake. EMS and FAT are also options.
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mittelmotor
post Jan 17 2013, 12:36 PM
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This might go without saying, but are you using an oil with a ZDDP additive? Crazy contact loads exist on a flat-tappet engine, and the zinc/phosphorus additive acts as a lubricant. I know Royal Purple and Amsoil have such blends, and I'm sure roughly 1100 people will chime in with their personal picks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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yeahmag
post Jan 17 2013, 12:38 PM
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True. You ***must*** use a boutique oil these days. I personally only hae experience with Brad Penn, but after a few years of racing and living on the rev limiter my cam looked good enough that someone here bought it!
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rudedude
post Jan 17 2013, 02:09 PM
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The motor has only run 20w-50 Brad Penn from "new", broken in with at least 20" at 2500rpm and changed yearly with about 2000 miles. Valves adjusted at the same interval and never really changed in adjustment.
Any recommendations as to cams if I were to get one from Raby as he doesn't give advice any longer. 2056 with carbs, flowed heads with larger valves.
Thanks for the advice.
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yeahmag
post Jan 17 2013, 04:57 PM
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Any chance you were floating the valves?
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rudedude
post Jan 17 2013, 05:30 PM
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Actually my now 23 yo sons car we built before he could drive. He takes pretty good care of it and doesn't think he's over reved it.
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yeahmag
post Jan 17 2013, 05:36 PM
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Other than a bad spring or three I think you are left with a bad lifter diagnosis. Who's lifters were they?

As far as a cam recommendation we'd need to know your level of headwork and exhaust. 1.7 heads or 2.0? Things like that...
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rudedude
post Jan 19 2013, 09:08 AM
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I don't know where the lifters came from, the motor was built in 2005.
The heads are 2.0 with larger valves and polishing/flow work.
Aaron, I read your cam thread. What did you end up using and how is it working?
Thanks
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yeahmag
post Jan 19 2013, 10:02 AM
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Jake talked me in to his version of an 86a. I went with his full valve train kit because it was a really good deal if you add up all the individual parts. I had a milder cam of his before that I'd spin to 6K RPM and it felt like it was still pulling before I hit the limiter. That combined with many other recommendations for the 86a made me feel like it was a safe decision.

FAT would tell you that you can run a much more aggressive cam if you have a good exhaust.

Regardless of what you get with bigger valves I'd suggest dual springs if you aren't already running them.

I'm still plumbing the endless -10/-12 AN lines for my dry sump conversion. I should start it soon though!
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