I'm actually gonna have a pretty car., First time in 30 years Options

[RickS]

Those are the flares that Porsche should have created. As far as blacks, it's tough to judge without seeing examples side by side. Metallics always have a bit more visual interest when subtle but a pure deep, wet black (sounds a bit sexual) has a lot going for it.

[aircooledboy]

The solution. Black top the driveway. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Oh if only that were an option. Unfortunately as currently configured, it's 300 feet long, and traveled by fully loaded semi trucks full o' grain as they travel in and out to the grain bins we rent out at the back of the property. It would literally be cheaper to build a new garage with a separate driveway. I will do exactly that at some point, but at the moment I see no signs that college will become free for the 3 North American Grocery Scarfing Locust who inhabit our home. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) So, it looks like gravel driveway for a few more years at a minimum. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/brain.gif)

[aircooledboy]

Today started pretty out good. I installed the stainless tunnel fuel line in that I've had sitting around for "a while." I picked this up in a group buy I thought was a couple years ago. Then I open the box and found the invoice inside: 2006 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Ooops. Guess I've had it for a little longer than I thought. Oh well, can't rush greatness, right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Then, using the 2003 350Z billet grille I snagged on ebay for $34, we modified and mocked up the bumper. SWEEEEET!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)



Steve's going to see what his plating guy will charge to fill the tit holes and re-chrome the bumper. The bolt head there is just so we could get a feel for the shape and size, and DAMN does that look better than the open hole I've gone with for the last 10 years or so. Thanks for the tip to Andys. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Steve's chrome guy does plastic too, so I will have the fog grilles re-plated as well.

[aircooledboy]

Then, things went a bit south. I was pulling the interior because I am going to treat some rust in my tunnel, and since I got new carpet for christmas, it had to come out any way. That's when I found this:



Son of a . . . . . Fiberglass. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Gotta be honest, I'm a little pissed. Way back when, I flew out to Georgia to look at the car, I crawled under it and saw this:



I asked the PO what was going on there, and he told me it was just basically a cavity cover part of the floor pan, and it was the only sheet metal issue anywhere on the pan. I thought, "well, its not structure, and I don't see any other issue with the pan" and I couldn't examine the interior side because he had glued sound proofing to the entire interior floor. The rest of the pan does look solid as a rock from the bottom, and the entire area around the suspension ear is a 9/10. So I took his word for the "no other issues" part.

I know, I know, "buyer beware", and I was no 914 newbie either, but what hacks me off is he HAD to know about it even if he didn't do it, because HE glued the soundproofing to it. So he not only knew about it, but he knew I couldn't see this fiberglass bullshit without pulling up the glued down carpet and soundproofing that was covering it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif)

[aircooledboy]

So, what do you guys think? How bad is that, and what panels am I going to likely need to make it right?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Chris H.]

That sucks man. Very disappointing.

So it's a fiberglass patch in the floor pan or is it other places? You won't know what you actually need until you chip/grind that crap off. I'd do that and report back with a bunch of pics. Underneath it looks like you're missing the triangular piece and the jacking donut, or there's crap slathered over it. The underside of the long might need inspection as well.

It looks like you'll probably need a floor pan section and maybe some other stuff depending on what else you find. All the passenger side mid-section pieces are available so you'll be able to get it fixed. Brad Mayeur down in Peoria can fix that easily BTW....in case your guy hasn't done 914 underside rust repair.

Here's a resource for the panels and pieces:

Restoration-design

[r_towle]

Buy a rear 1/4 pan, once you see it, you will what you can cut out and replace.
you do not need to replace anything more than is needed.

[rick 918-S]

Could need to do this.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=226585&hl=

[aircooledboy]

I'm gonna see if I can get out there today and clean it off. I know Steve would do it, but given what he's done for me already for nothing, I feel like we're getting pretty far outside what he signed on for at this little cluster.

Could need to do this.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=226585&hl=

I'm reaonably confident I don't have that level of cancer. The long, jack post and all the other trouble areas look like perfectly intact 40 year old sheet metal. Paint is worse for the wear, but metal looks uncompromised. Thinking back now about some other things I've seen on the car, I suspect the damage is from a leaking back glass while the car sat. The remainder of the pan is literally perfect. I guess I'll see. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)

[Chris H.]

If the long is OK then you're probably right. "It's just a flesh wound"...

rtowle's method is the way to go. get the fiberglass crap out, get a floor pan section, replace only the metal that you have to. Or send it to Brad. He does that stuff all the time.

[aircooledboy]

Yeah Baaaby (IMG:style_emoticons/default/monkeydance.gif)
It is in deed just a flesh wound.

I peeled off this:


And found this:


Surprisingly, the fiberglass did not stop the rust underneath it at all. Who knew??The long is unscathed. Some minor pitting, but strong and solid. The firewall at the floor is rotted about 3/8" up for about 2". I'll order the floor pan from resto design, Steve says he can fab up the small patch for the firewall, I'll be all good.

Will cause a slight delay, but I'll have a better car for it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[aircooledboy]

This, BTW is Steve's next big project. It's a 1936 Bentley Barker.



It came in a container yesterday. The steering rack had been disconnected so the front wheels could be moved for rudimentary steering, since the column is frozen in place. The parts are all inside in boxes, most of the beautiful hand made wood interior trim has been painted black, then blue. The exterior paint was so insanely poor you could literally flake 90% of what's left on it off with your fingernail. I asked Steve what it was worth in this condition: $80k. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Apparently the coachwork having been done by Barker makes it a very rare and desirable car. I didn't know until today, but back then, when you bought a Rolls or a Bentley, you actually bought a chassis. Then you took that chassis to an actual coachbuilder and they built the body. The body framework is made of Ash, and then the aluminum body panels were hand formed over that wood frame. He told me the running board/ front fender assembly was likely made of of more than 30 individual pieces. It seems that Barker was the shiat for this era, because Steve says after a likely 2 year restoration, this car will be worth between $450k and $480k.

[Chris H.]

Nice...if your guy is entrusted with that Bentley project the floor pan will be cake for him. Hey what's up with this section?

[aircooledboy]

Hey what's up with this section?

Just what it looks like. Fuchin' body filler. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Hy-evah, the fire wall is intact and solid on the engine side. My guess is, consistent with my belief the floor damage was from a leaky back glass, some water probably collected on the top edge of the seam, resulting in some minor rust. like I said, solid on the engine side, filler seems very thin, and holds a magnet well all over. Since it's in a non-visible area, I'm not going to lose any sleep over making it cosmetically perfect. I'll keep an eye on it, and address it later if need be, but I'm not going to ask Steve to deal with it now.