Paint fail. Well kinda., I see lots of color sanding in my near future. |
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Paint fail. Well kinda., I see lots of color sanding in my near future. |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 03:59 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
After my first shot at painting, it seems I might have been moving the gun a little too fast? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I don't think enough paint flowed on to the fenders. This was after 4 coats, waiting about 20 minutes between coats. The paint store advised me to mix the paint and hardener 3:1 which I did through use of a graduated cup. I'm learning about painting and now I guess I'll be learning about color sanding. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
If anyone has done some color sanding, I could use some advice. I'll also consult with the auto body shop that has been advising me as well. This has all been fun and interesting and I'm looking forward to doing more. These pics show my results pretty well. Lots more work to do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Attached image(s) |
rick 918-S |
Apr 2 2013, 09:18 PM
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#21
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,492 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
also you say 3:1 so I assume it is single stage ? With a 1.3 tip, I'd go with 3:1:1, or 3:1:.5 if you want to play it safe GM paint could mean a factory pack pre-mixed and sold as is. It is a less costly way to purchase paint. All it means is the paint is mixed at (for instance) the Du Pont plant to a specific formula that should be a blend-able match to a specific year, make and model GM. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If it is Du Pont single stage urethane the reduction is 3:1:1 You need reducer. It would have changed the whole finish. Not saying it would have been better but at least it would have flashed slower and developed a shine. |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 09:40 PM
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#22
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
All good advice. I'll be taking a fender to the paint shop tomorrow and consult with my painting advisor. I'll try color sanding first and if that doesn't do it, I'll block sand it and re-shoot it with Scotty's recommendations. Thanks to everyone for the help and advice. I certainly need it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 09:41 PM
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#23
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
also you say 3:1 so I assume it is single stage ? With a 1.3 tip, I'd go with 3:1:1, or 3:1:.5 if you want to play it safe GM paint could mean a factory pack pre-mixed and sold as is. It is a less costly way to purchase paint. All it means is the paint is mixed at (for instance) the Du Pont plant to a specific formula that should be a blend-able match to a specific year, make and model GM. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If it is Du Pont single stage urethane the reduction is 3:1:1 You need reducer. It would have changed the whole finish. Not saying it would have been better but at least it would have flashed slower and developed a shine. Thanks Rick. I'll check the label on the can tomorrow and I can let you know exactly what brand it is. |
scotty b |
Apr 2 2013, 09:41 PM
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#24
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
also you say 3:1 so I assume it is single stage ? With a 1.3 tip, I'd go with 3:1:1, or 3:1:.5 if you want to play it safe GM paint could mean a factory pack pre-mixed and sold as is. It is a less costly way to purchase paint. All it means is the paint is mixed at (for instance) the Du Pont plant to a specific formula that should be a blend-able match to a specific year, make and model GM. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If it is Du Pont single stage urethane the reduction is 3:1:1 You need reducer. It would have changed the whole finish. Not saying it would have been better but at least it would have flashed slower and developed a shine. Calling factory pack GM would make sense I guess. I've just never heard it referred to by any specific make. Spies just had it labeld as " blue black " and it might have coverd 3-4 different manufacturers codes |
bulitt |
Apr 3 2013, 04:31 AM
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#25
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Achtzylinder Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 2-October 11 Member No.: 13,632 Region Association: South East States |
You did a great job shooting the primer... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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sixnotfour |
Apr 3 2013, 05:05 AM
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#26
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,434 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Ell-yut, I think it looks great. What brand pf bedliner material did you use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) See you Friday! Thousands of vortex generators just might make it go faster. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I resemble that remark (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) http://www.prfprod.com/info.html |
ThePaintedMan |
Apr 3 2013, 05:36 AM
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#27
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Ah, knew Scotty, Rick and Chris would get you going in the right direction. Sorry, I assumed it was a BC/CC and the clearcoat just wasn't laid on correctly. Now I see what those guys are saying. If you don't get the paint thinned out enough with the reducer, it kind of curdles and yes, you'd really have to slow down to lay it on thick enough to get it to gloss. Maybe Scotty or Rick and elaborate, but doesn't the ratio of reducer in there also control the affinity of the sprayed coat to stick to the previous? I know a trick with single stage is, if you have to go back and respray something just outside of the 24 hour window, you can lightly scuff the panel and add a little extra reducer to help the paint cling to/interact with the previous coat.
As Chris said, the first coat definitely impacts how the whole thing comes out. That's why it is laid on lightly with as little texture as possible. Those paint molecules are doing the initial bonding with the primer and setting up the matrix for the rest of their cousins to bond together when you lay down successive coats. Of course, there is a limit to how much lateral bonding those molecules can do with one another (which we learned here can greatly be impacted by chemistry, like reducer ratio) and how much vertical bonding they can do with the panel being sprayed. It's a delicate balance to get the paint to lay down thick and glossy or end up as a new decoration for your garage floor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I commend you for learning how to paint in the first place! It is intimidating, and you're going to make mistakes, but I LOVE to paint cars! |
SUNAB914 |
Apr 3 2013, 01:51 PM
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#28
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 698 Joined: 29-December 08 From: Fredericksburg VA Member No.: 9,880 Region Association: South East States |
Nice ass on the girl!
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Starlack |
Apr 3 2013, 02:13 PM
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#29
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Member Group: Members Posts: 67 Joined: 8-January 12 From: Germany Member No.: 13,978 Region Association: None |
If the images I see a tip from me. The color with which it is i have painted the viscosity is too high ..
A good result can AREAS where the paint to give 10% solvent. What in the U.S., the viscosity is measured? In Germany we have the DIN system is thus a good viscosity of 25 to 28 seconds at about 20 ° C temperature .... The gun should have a 1.4mm tip ... (Nozzle) |
euro911 |
Apr 3 2013, 05:13 PM
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#30
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! Group: Members Posts: 8,851 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California |
Nice ass on the girl! I scrolled back up the thread a couple of times before it hit me ... duh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
relentless |
Apr 3 2013, 05:32 PM
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#31
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Member Group: Members Posts: 350 Joined: 1-April 07 From: Oregon Member No.: 7,636 |
I remember that krinkle finish paint!
Nice old Honda 750 in the driveway. |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 3 2013, 07:49 PM
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#32
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
For Scotty B et al, here is the paint I used. I tried color sanding a bit today (started going through to the primer) but I think what I'll do is block sand it with 500 or 600 grit and re spray everything. The local body shop has offered to let me use his paint booth for one of the fenders. He will watch me and see if he can tell how I'm effing things up. I have a feeling that the gun wasn't adjusted correctly. I don't thinkl the trigger was adjusted to let enough paint come through and maybe it went on kinda DRY. I'll make adjustments and try it again. So far my learning curve looks kind of like this. /
Attached image(s) |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 3 2013, 07:54 PM
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#33
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
also you say 3:1 so I assume it is single stage ? With a 1.3 tip, I'd go with 3:1:1, or 3:1:.5 if you want to play it safe GM paint could mean a factory pack pre-mixed and sold as is. It is a less costly way to purchase paint. All it means is the paint is mixed at (for instance) the Du Pont plant to a specific formula that should be a blend-able match to a specific year, make and model GM. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If it is Du Pont single stage urethane the reduction is 3:1:1 You need reducer. It would have changed the whole finish. Not saying it would have been better but at least it would have flashed slower and developed a shine. I talked to the paint store guy today and he suggested If I wanted to add reducer not to go more than 3:1:.5 That paint was mixed at the store. Both he and the body shop guy said it should not be needed with this stuff. I'll keep trying. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Chris H. |
Apr 3 2013, 07:59 PM
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#34
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,032 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Hey Elliot, do you have an old door or body panel laying around that you could practice on? It's kind of like welding...best way to learn is by messing up some scrap metal..
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scotty b |
Apr 3 2013, 08:00 PM
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#35
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Used that stuff quite a bit. I go 3:1:1 but then again, I'm a rebel without a clue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) It's decent stuff, glosses up well, as long as you get it on the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) I'd suggest at least 4 coats if it flows out well, more if not. It is thin, and any single stage gets thinner with age as it gets buffed. One of its major drawbacks
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Elliot Cannon |
Apr 3 2013, 08:07 PM
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#36
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
Thanks Scotty. I'll try this again. Second time's the charm. Right?
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balljoint |
Apr 3 2013, 08:16 PM
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#37
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,000 Joined: 6-April 04 Member No.: 1,897 Region Association: None |
I like the idea of more practice. What do your other cars look like Elliot?
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euro911 |
Apr 3 2013, 08:44 PM
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#38
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! Group: Members Posts: 8,851 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California |
Hey Elliot, do you have an old door or body panel laying around that you could practice on? It's kind of like welding...best way to learn is by messing up some scrap metal.. Yeah, you can practice on the inside of my hood ... and when you've got the process down good, you can paint the top side too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)I see the problem now ... it says 'For Professional Use Only' at the bottom of the can (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 3 2013, 10:18 PM
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#39
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
I got your check for the hood for your 912 smart guy. I leave for the RT66 tour in the morning. My first stop is the Aquarius Hotel in Laughlin Nevada. "BLACK JACK". "HIT ME!" what the hell, it ain't MY money. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)
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Elliot Cannon |
Apr 3 2013, 10:20 PM
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#40
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
Hey Elliot, do you have an old door or body panel laying around that you could practice on? It's kind of like welding...best way to learn is by messing up some scrap metal.. Yeah, you can practice on the inside of my hood ... and when you've got the process down good, you can paint the top side too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)I see the problem now ... it says 'For Professional Use Only' at the bottom of the can (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) OK. I'll make the top side of your hood red and the bottom green. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) |
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