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> She's getting gas but wont start?
CTDan914
post Apr 27 2013, 02:27 PM
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Last time I started the car was in December. It sat since then but does have sta-ble in it. It's a 75 2.0

I can smell gas from trying to start it but it just wont kick.

Any idea's
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McMark
post Apr 27 2013, 02:32 PM
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Got power to the coil? Grab your multimeter.
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Steve Snyder
post Apr 27 2013, 03:01 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

...need gas AND spark.
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timothy_nd28
post Apr 27 2013, 04:17 PM
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CTDan914
post Apr 27 2013, 07:01 PM
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It ran great in December.
I guess it's time to get a manual.

How do I check the coil with a multimeter. I've checked batteries with them and that's about the extent of my experience with them.
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brenz
post Apr 27 2013, 07:26 PM
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Had a similar issue. Checked and tried everything it seemed. Changed my plugs and it started right up.

The Haynes manual is a great resource and a must-have.
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McMark
post Apr 27 2013, 07:35 PM
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Turn the key on and check the exposed connections on either side of the coil. One of them should read 12v with the red wire. (negative side of tester to negative side of battery)
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Mblizzard
post Apr 27 2013, 07:41 PM
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I think many of us fall in to the mode of thinking it started yesterday why won't it start today. But what we forget is that it is not yesterday any more. So we have to go through the process without any preconceived assumptions. Spark, gas, timing, plugs, and progress through each step. It is easy to say but it is harder to do when you are expecting the same result as yesterday.

But after siting for so long I would think plugs and points.
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CTDan914
post May 26 2013, 02:16 PM
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all right, I was able to get to the car again. I pulled the coil wire at the distributor and I get no spark from the coil wire. What could that be, a bad coil?

I know the battery is good and I've had it on a battery maintainer for the last 5 months or so.
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r_towle
post May 26 2013, 02:21 PM
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QUOTE(CTDan914 @ Apr 27 2013, 09:01 PM) *

It ran great in December.
I guess it's time to get a manual.

How do I check the coil with a multimeter. I've checked batteries with them and that's about the extent of my experience with them.

Mice like wires
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Mblizzard
post May 26 2013, 03:28 PM
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Do you have voltage going into the coil? If yes bad coil. No - mice do like wires. Or there may be problems in the ignition switch.
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Drums66
post May 26 2013, 03:42 PM
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...inspect spark plugs&wires as suggested? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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CTDan914
post May 26 2013, 03:45 PM
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QUOTE(Mblizzard @ May 26 2013, 05:28 PM) *

Do you have voltage going into the coil? If yes bad coil. No - mice do like wires. Or there may be problems in the ignition switch.


Tomorrow I will check the coil with the multi tester. What's the best check, negative prob on the negative terminal of the coil and posi prob on the posi terminal of the coil?

Or, negative prob to ground on motor and posi prob on posi terminal of coil?

This is my first time testing a coil so I appreciate the help.
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Mblizzard
post May 26 2013, 03:55 PM
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I don't know if one is better than the other. I would do it both ways to be sure.,
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r_towle
post May 26 2013, 03:56 PM
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negative lead from the multimeter on the negative side of the battery.
Positive lead from the multimeter on the positive side of the coil.

Multimeter set to either 12 or 50 VDC
Key on in the car.

You should see 12vdc at the coil.
If not, start checking all your fuses...twist them all to help clean out corrosion.

Remove the positive and negative battery cables, clean them all.
Remove the small red wires on the positive cable and the battery and clean them all.

Coat all the lead ends with di-electric grease.
Do this each spring.

If you want to be good, pull the battery out of the car and clean the batter tray, and all around underneath with a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize the batter acid.
Use that same cleaner on the batter.

Rich
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CTDan914
post May 27 2013, 03:46 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 26 2013, 05:56 PM) *

negative lead from the multimeter on the negative side of the battery.
Positive lead from the multimeter on the positive side of the coil.

Multimeter set to either 12 or 50 VDC
Key on in the car.

You should see 12vdc at the coil.
If not, start checking all your fuses...twist them all to help clean out corrosion.

Remove the positive and negative battery cables, clean them all.
Remove the small red wires on the positive cable and the battery and clean them all.

Coat all the lead ends with di-electric grease.
Do this each spring.

If you want to be good, pull the battery out of the car and clean the batter tray, and all around underneath with a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize the batter acid.
Use that same cleaner on the batter.

Rich



Thanks for the tips guys. Rich, this helps a lot. I'm on the down hill side of moving and I'm not sure if I'll get to the car today but I will set time aside to work on it tomorrow for sure. I'll give an up date then.
Dan
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CTDan914
post May 27 2013, 06:53 PM
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I have 12.8 V at the battery and 8+ at the coil with the key on.
It's time to move fuses and cleaning of the battery post.
At lest, now I have a starting point (no pun intended).
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Jon H.
post May 27 2013, 07:10 PM
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Here a good resource for instructions on testing for no spark.

Speedy Jim, strictly air cooled

Jon
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CTDan914
post May 28 2013, 05:21 AM
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QUOTE(Jon H. @ May 27 2013, 09:10 PM) *

Here a good resource for instructions on testing for no spark.

Speedy Jim, strictly air cooled

Jon


Thanks Jon, that's one for my reference material.
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CTDan914
post Jul 7 2013, 10:14 AM
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It's been a while since I first posted about this no start issue but I got the move out of the way and thought I'd give you guys an update.

I had to get the car to my new residence and had a flatbed in route to pick it up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
I hated the idea of that.

In a last ditch effort to start it I messed around with the anti-theft devises and then it happen....it started and has been running fine.

To say the least, I cancelled the flatbed before he arrived and was lucky because he was picking up another car before coming to get mine.
Now, I will complete the tune up replacing the plug wires, cap and rotor.

I still don't know why I had 12.8v at the battery and 8.8 at the coil.

I appreciate you guys trying to help.

Dan
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