rear springs and shocks Options

[shoguneagle]

I need advice and comments on what rear springs and shocks to use on my 914-sixer. I have a low rear end and the setup I have been using does not raise the rear end up to a normal level. At the wheel arches, the measurements are about 23.25 and it is to low thus possible exposure to the 3.2 engine and oil lines, etc.

I am using 140# springs on Koni Reds and am thinking the shock is too short to give me something back to a normal ride. The Koni Reds where used on an adjustable perch with 180# springs and they did provide the same level ride.

Need to know what others are using for springs and shocks along with any advice.

Thanks,
Steve

[Eric_Shea]

Those shocks should be normal length. Are they set full soft? I like full soft on Koni's for street applications. Gives a nice firm European ride.

[shoguneagle]

The shocks are set full soft; the length seems to be affecting the ride level thus being too low.

[914_teener]

The shocks are set full soft; the length seems to be affecting the ride level thus being too low.

How sure are you that your suspension isn't binding somewhere?

[Jeffs9146]

I had this problem with the 160# springs. They are shorter so you need to raise the perch! I made a set from 2" electrical couplings cut to the height I needed!

[JimN73]

the shocks don't do anything for ride height, that comes from the springs. Springs heavier than stock are shorter. Up to about 140#, the ride height drop is small. Over that, the springs get shorter quickly.

A spacer under the perch helps. The people that sell heavier springs will have a spacer spring with, almost no tension, to fill the space between the spring and the perch. I have 150# from Ground control, their suggestion is to wire the spring to the cap, loose when the car is jacked up, compressed when not. I use the adjustable perch to adjust ride height.

[dirk9141973]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Not sure the proper height but mine measures 23.00 passenger and 22.5/8 " drivers. I have messed with about everything that is as good as I can get it. I know tires and rims air pressure can effect height. One thing that is weird about 914 is tail low .

[shoguneagle]

Everyone did scope into the problem which relates to the spacer that goes on the shock to give it proper height and clearance. The solution can be several methods some which have discussed and used: making new spacer, using the multi stage adjustment on some shocks, using the adjustable perches kits, etc.

What I did was not put the spacer onto the Koni shocks before installing them in the car. How stupid can one be.

I was working on the rear suspension and was doing initial configuration when I had to go to the hospital several days ago thus not being able to followup on my build. After putting them, this lack of concentration made me low and substantially lower than the 23.25 inches I originally mentioned. There is about .50 to .75 difference between each rear side.

The solution to all problems can be handled in a couple of ways which includes making new spacers to compensate for the side to difference and vertical height; or, use the adjustable perch systems that are offered for sale.

I had adjustable perch system on the car which was set for 180#; like to stay away for this type system. I am in favor in adjusting the height and side-to-side differences via making appropriate spacers. I would be using original springs and could set my ride height for the new tires I want to purchase.

I am still unable to physically work on the car but would like to get a solution to my problem.

What do you think??? Need advice on this one while I am still down.

After this problem is solved, just need painting and driving.

Thanks,
Steve

[Jeffs9146]

I think any of the sugestions offer a solution but both sides should be even when you start! You can adjust the top threaded adjustment to balance things from side to side while still installed and then add the spacers when you get a chance to pull the springs out!

If the threaded top adjustment is not enough to solve the problem then you will need to pull the shocks out and add something to space them up and get the perches aligned so they are not floating! Then adjust the details with the top adjustment!

[shoguneagle]

Thanks, Jeff.

Exactly the way I see it. Trying to keep the problem simple in solution and application. I think what you suggest does the job.

Steve

[pcar916]

Are you planning to corner-balance after this adventure?

[shoguneagle]

I think once I get the suspension and current problems straightened out, wiring cleaned up, and the car painted I will get it corner balanced. Still have to determine whether to use rear sway bar or not.

This car has the best of the best in suspension (Elephant Racing bronze inserts, Koni shocks, every brace needed to eliminate body flex, 911 front suspension and brakes on all four corners, etc). I am running Carrera Cup II 17 inch rims with front (7 inch 205/45) and Cup II 17 inch rims in rear (9 inch 235/40). I would like to change the front to 205/55 or 60; and the rear to 235/50 or 55; using the same Carrrera Cup II rims.

I intend the car for street driving and maybe a few Auto-Xs; just a good street performer and enjoying the curving roads of Oregon, Washington, California, and Arizona. I want it to handle well and perform without problems. Looking forward to time I can just drive the car and enjoy the trip. I have built the car over the last seven years and once painted will be final assembled with seals, adjustments, interior, and other improvements.

Steve

[ChrisFoley]

There is about .50 to .75 difference between each rear side.

Before making alterations at the rear of the car I would put it on a level surface and see if you can adjust the front end to eliminate the rear difference.
More often than not, it is the front being out of adjustment which causes the rear to look askew.
If you're good, you can tell if the car is reasonably well cornerbalanced simply by comparing the resistance of the torsion bar adjusters.
If the chassis is straight, and the rear shock/springs are installed correctly, I bet you'll find one front corner is more heavily loaded - on the side opposite to the rear corner which sits lower.

[Jeffs9146]

There is about .50 to .75 difference between each rear side.

Before making alterations at the rear of the car I would put it on a level surface and see if you can adjust the front end to eliminate the rear difference.
More often than not, it is the front being out of adjustment which causes the rear to look askew.
If you're good, you can tell if the car is reasonably well cornerbalanced simply by comparing the resistance of the torsion bar adjusters.
If the chassis is straight, and the rear shock/springs are installed correctly, I bet you'll find one front corner is more heavily loaded - on the side opposite to the rear corner which sits lower.

It is also good to check the camber on both sides! I like mine at between -.5' to -.75' but if one is 0' and the other is -.5' you will have a height difference!

[shoguneagle]

Thanks for the advice and will certainly follow.

Does anyone have a picture of the end of the sock and how the spring perch sets on the shock. I have a couple of things: first, a hard rubber item that appears to go around the shock (probably noise surpression???) and then a metal sleeve with an o-ring (lower spring perch???). I need to know how these go on and if the rubber is eliminated does a new sleeve have to be made to replace it.

Thanks,
Steve

[Jeffs9146]

Here is the PET diagram

[shoguneagle]

Thank you, everyone, for the great advice and diagrams/pictures. It gives me everything to get the basis of car suspension back together correctly.

Again, the people of the web site have been a great help. Keeps me headed in the right direction.

Thank You!

Steve