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> It's running better..., Much better, Well even!!
914itis
post May 25 2013, 05:06 PM
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Is the advance in the distributor working properly?
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Bob L.
post May 25 2013, 05:26 PM
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QUOTE(914itis @ May 25 2013, 06:06 PM) *

Is the advance in the distributor working properly?


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I know it fully advanced ay 3500 rpm. I have the red mark on the fan in the notch. How do I check that? I have started to suspect that. I also suspect the TPS board itself.

Should I just pull the dizzy and give it a once-over?
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 06:37 PM
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Connect a spare hose on the advanced and retard port, remove the cap, and suck air on them, you should feel the suction and see the arms moving back and forth. If no movement , vaccum is not working. You can use your mouth to sick the air.

I had that same issue over Year ago and that's what my problem was.
I rebuilt it and I am still running fine. If you do a search with my name, you will find the tread.
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dangrouche
post May 25 2013, 08:03 PM
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In all this, I did not see a mention of checking the trigger points. Just one last thing to check off the list as functioning
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Bob L.
post May 25 2013, 08:53 PM
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Itis,
I did the sucking test for advance and retard. Both seem fine and hold vacuum. the advance did seem a little harder and I could hear a suck/slurp sound coming from the "unit". It sounded like a diaphragm was crinkling as it moved.
Anyway the plate moved backward and forward but I don't see any "arms" except for the one attached to the advance/retard bell.


QUOTE(dangrouche @ May 25 2013, 09:03 PM) *

In all this, I did not see a mention of checking the trigger points. Just one last thing to check off the list as functioning


Are you sure it's the LAST thing?

But seriously, good idea. No I haven't looked at them. Have they caused this kind of thing before?
Now I gotta look them up.
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Bob L.
post May 25 2013, 09:02 PM
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And another thing...

just because the vacuum advance works (even though it's not hooked up on mine), does that mean the centrifugal advance is working well?
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 09:04 PM
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After testing the trigger points, if you are still having the issue I would try to borrow an ECU and swap it. I am sure one of the locals would be more than happy to lend you one for a quick testing.
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 09:08 PM
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I also noticed that you mentioned 76 djet with 73. Are all your fuel injection components such as head temp sensor, ECU, harness, mps, distributor and injectors the same year?

If you have a mismatch, you may have that issue.
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 09:11 PM
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QUOTE(Bob L. @ May 25 2013, 11:02 PM) *

And another thing...

just because the vacuum advance works (even though it's not hooked up on mine), does that mean the centrifugal advance is working well?

What do you mean by " it's not hooked up on yours?" Why not?
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Bob L.
post May 25 2013, 09:14 PM
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And yet another thing...

I was searching around and saw someone had adjusted the points gap. I did not do that. Will in the morning.
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Bob L.
post May 25 2013, 09:17 PM
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QUOTE(914itis @ May 25 2013, 10:11 PM) *

QUOTE(Bob L. @ May 25 2013, 11:02 PM) *

And another thing...

just because the vacuum advance works (even though it's not hooked up on mine), does that mean the centrifugal advance is working well?

What do you mean by " it's not hooked up on yours?" Why not?

It's a "76. The hose is on the can but just left free to dangle. Retard is connected to TB.
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 09:18 PM
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Adjusting the points gap is also know. As dwell, your dwell would be between 44 and 50 As I can recall.
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 09:19 PM
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QUOTE(Bob L. @ May 25 2013, 11:17 PM) *

QUOTE(914itis @ May 25 2013, 10:11 PM) *

QUOTE(Bob L. @ May 25 2013, 11:02 PM) *

And another thing...

just because the vacuum advance works (even though it's not hooked up on mine), does that mean the centrifugal advance is working well?

What do you mean by " it's not hooked up on yours?" Why not?

It's a "76. The hose is on the can but just left free to dangle. Retard is connected to TB.

Correct!
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 09:21 PM
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Reading your previous post, your dwell is at 48, no need to gap the points.
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Bob L.
post May 25 2013, 09:26 PM
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QUOTE(914itis @ May 25 2013, 10:21 PM) *

Reading your previous post, your dwell is at 48, no need to gap the points.


OK, good.
What about the centrifugal advance and/or trigger points? Seems like the next step(s).
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914itis
post May 25 2013, 09:31 PM
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I am not sure about the centrifugal advance, but the trigger points should be checked.
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Bob L.
post May 25 2013, 09:51 PM
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QUOTE(914itis @ May 25 2013, 10:08 PM) *

I also noticed that you mentioned 76 djet with 73. Are all your fuel injection components such as head temp sensor, ECU, harness, mps, distributor and injectors the same year?

If you have a mismatch, you may have that issue.


Nope, It all came as a running package. A matched set AFAIK.
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r_towle
post May 26 2013, 07:54 AM
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I have found that you can chase an issue like this for weeks, and in the end, it's a dirty distributor that needs to be cleaned and the advance plates need about .005 cents of grease between the plates.

The Original grease is all dried up and acts like glue...so the plates don't move smoothly, they snap open and closed.

Pull the distributor out of the car, make note of its location and relationship of the vacuum advance can and the fan shroud...then you know how to put it back in damn close to proper timing....at least close enough to get it started.

Remove the rotor, and points.
Remove the advance plates, get the on the bench

There is a small ball bearing between the plates held in by a retainer.
Remove that and separate the plates, clean out the old gooey grease.
Add new wheel bearing grease in between those plates.

Fell how they move against each other prior to cleaning.
Feel them after cleaning....should be a lot smoother.

The issue I found is when the distributor get hot, these plates start to bind up even more.

New grease and cleaning the distributor is part of the annual 40 year maintenance.

When done properly, you should be good for another 40 years of service.

Rich
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Bob L.
post May 26 2013, 11:58 AM
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R-towle,
I was thinking that myself. I already have it in pieces.

The advance plates weren't that bad. A bit of dry grease and mild pitting on one plate. The shaft spins freely and is not wobbly at all. The trigger points look good, contacts are clean. I'll clean and lube everything and put it back in.

I need a new washer/spacer for the bottom piece at the bottom of the shaft but I don't think it was my problem. It looks like a fiber washer that keeps the cam at the bottom of the shaft from wobbling. Is it anything special or can I get one at home depot? I'm not sure how to get the bottom piece off. Does the pin get hammered out?


914itis,

I have searched for your dizzy rebuild thread but can't find it. Do you recall the title?
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914itis
post May 26 2013, 03:48 PM
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It was not a dizzy rebuilt thread, it was the thread I opened when I was having the issue.

Here is the Link
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