 Alternator - Voltage Regulator, WTF |
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| Mblizzard |
 May 13 2013, 07:21 PM
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#41
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Advanced Member  Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States  |
Rich - brand new battery. Ran it all day no issues. But I know it is waiting for me to relax. I have to think that one of the connections was lose. I guess I will wait to see if it repeats at some point.
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| stugray |
May 13 2013, 09:39 PM
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#42
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
QUOTE The manuals all say not to do it, but now I too wonder why. The battery serves as a sink for excess voltage. Worn nailed it. The battery also acts as a voltage regulator of the entire system. It has a HUGE capacity to sink or source current quickly so it is an even more powerful voltage regulator than the electronic one in the alternator. Think of the battery as a huge filter. If you take that big filter out of the system the VR does not take it well. (And you cause noise that is bad for modern computer based systems) Stu |
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| tommy914 |
Jun 3 2013, 07:52 PM
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#43
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Life is a journey, enjoy every turn. Group: Members Posts: 1,103 Joined: 15-September 03 From: Ridgeland, MS Member No.: 1,165 Region Association: None |
I'm having similar issues.
Alternator light glows dimly at idle but increases in brightness as revs increase to 2500. Battery shows 13.5 volts when car is running and idle speed is above 2000. Battery shows 12.7 when car is turned off. I ran the tests on the Pelican site. 12V from battery to DF terminal. Light goes out about 2000 rpm DF connected to D+. Light stays on. So do I need a new alternator, or is there a fuse / ground issue? Thanks! |
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