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> Steering Wheel Wobble at Speed, I'm out of ideas
LotusJoe
post May 16 2013, 06:44 PM
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I am experiencing wheel wobble at freeway speeds. At around 60 the steering wheel wobbles, but you can drive through it. At about 70 it quits. I assumed it was a tire out of balance. So I rotated the the backs to the front. No difference. I then put a different set of tires on the car. Same issue. Then I switched yet another set of tires from the race car. Same issue. Unless I have 4 sets of tires that are out of balance I'm a bit perplexed. The entire front end has completely new everything. Any thoughts on where to check? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

New:
FreeMotion roller bearings on the arms
Bilstein Sport Shocks
Turbo Tie rods
New tie rod ends
New lower ball joints
New upper polly bushings
New wheel bearings
New Rotors
New Calipers
New bushings on the sway bar

(Everything is new)
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LotusJoe
post May 17 2013, 12:21 PM
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Thanks for all the input.
I will attempt to answer the questions put forth here.

The ride height is pretty much stock; maybe just a bit lowered but not much.

The steering rack was cleaned and re-greased during the restoration and appeared to have no slop.

There are no wheel spacers.

The steering coupler was in good shape, but will inspect again.

This is a late 73 with hubcentrics.

I will check the wheel bearings but they feel firm with no movement when on the lift.

I suppose there is always the chance that three sets of tires could be out of balance, but wow, I think that would be unusual.
I will have the alignment checked again this next week after I have examined all the components again.
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r_towle
post May 17 2013, 02:17 PM
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I have seen more than a few steering racks that have to much wear of the pinion gear but only in the area when the car is going straight.

I have been down your path, sorry to say.
After chasing and replacing all of it, it came down to rebuilding the rack and all was good.

When you get your tires balanced, look for a shop that has the correct 4 lug fixture so you are balancing off the lug location instead of the center of the wheel.
I learned alot about that chasing my wiggle.
It makes a huge difference.



rich
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bulitt
post May 17 2013, 10:30 PM
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I would go through every nut and bolt and make sure they are all tight, including the control arm bolts. I have seen alignment shops simply forget to tighten stuff.
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Dasnowman
post May 18 2013, 01:57 AM
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Hubcentric rim rings ? Had a couple of vehicles with after market rims needing these!
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billh1963
post Oct 18 2013, 01:57 PM
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What was the solution? Inquiring minds want to know... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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tadink
post Oct 18 2013, 06:32 PM
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hmmm, I've got the same thing, I thought it was down to balancing the tires but now I'll have to run thru this list...

thanks you guys - what a great source of knowledge!

td
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rhodyguy
post Oct 19 2013, 07:47 AM
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have you ever had your wheels checked for 'trueness'.

k
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hedfurst
post Oct 19 2013, 08:06 AM
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You also might want to be sure the nuts that secure the strut cartridges are tight.
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Porschef
post Oct 19 2013, 08:53 PM
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I lost the last bit of shimmy when I changed out to new front rotors...
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jkuehn
post Nov 6 2013, 09:12 PM
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Anyone figure this one out because i am the exact same boat with almost exactly the same new parts on my car. I tried the tighter wheel bearings and no help.

72 2.0
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914Mels
post Nov 7 2013, 02:36 PM
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You might have to look around for a shop that can do this but try having the tires balanced on the car. Our '70 had a similar problem and was solved by doing a spin balance with the wheels mounted on the vehicle. You can actually watch the fender shake as you spin the tire up, the same tires had been balanced a couple of times by good shops and needed the weight amount changed and placed slightly differently on the rim. Just mark the wheel location to the rotor to get it back on in the same spot if you remove the wheels for any reason.
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Sandy Teener
post Sep 1 2015, 09:09 PM
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QUOTE(LotusJoe @ May 17 2013, 11:21 AM) *

Thanks for all the input.
I will attempt to answer the questions put forth here.

The ride height is pretty much stock; maybe just a bit lowered but not much.

The steering rack was cleaned and re-greased during the restoration and appeared to have no slop.

There are no wheel spacers.

The steering coupler was in good shape, but will inspect again.

This is a late 73 with hubcentrics.

I will check the wheel bearings but they feel firm with no movement when on the lift.

I suppose there is always the chance that three sets of tires could be out of balance, but wow, I think that would be unusual.
I will have the alignment checked again this next week after I have examined all the components again.
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LotusJoe
I have a 73 and had the same exact issue! I had balanced two sets of rims, new tires, alignment, etc. What it turned out to be was that the hub protrusion on the hub centric front wheel was 1 mm taller than the depth of the bore out on the back side of both sets of rims! After more years than I'd like to admit, i found that the rims weren't seated absolutely flush with the entire wheel, depending on which bolt was tightened first. 1/4" wheel spacers came to the rescue and the ride smooth as glass. I can't believe the clown car setup I was riding previously didn't show up except at 65 mph. It may be an issue with the 73 hub centric tooling being a bit too tall on the fronts. Note the rear on a 73 is not hub centric and seats fine. It's been a while since your post, but I hope this solves the mystery for some others down the road!
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mzapisek
post Aug 12 2016, 12:51 PM
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I've been experiencing similar problems. Car tracks very well at all speeds when traveling in a straight line. I have a rocking sensation that presents itself mainly when traveling at speed in corners and on ramps. The car has been aligned, wheels are balanced and true. Bearings are adjusted properly. Anything else that could be the culprit before I dive into replacing the steering coupler? Thanks.
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914_teener
post Aug 12 2016, 01:30 PM
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What is your suspension set up?
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mzapisek
post Aug 12 2016, 02:23 PM
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From previous owners info:

"19mm thru body sway bar,911 Boge struts,turbo tie rods,new balljoints,polybronze bushings,911 20mm rotors and M calipers."

Thanks.
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914_teener
post Aug 12 2016, 02:33 PM
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So a 5 lug set up with a 19 mm through body bar and you are experiencing a "rocking motion". Is this feedback through the steering wheel or is it through the seat...meaning a feeling with the handling of the car. This post was about steering "wobble". So I'd assume feedback through the column?

Which is it?


I have a stock through body sway bar and you need to be careful about the suspension geometry and the preload on the bar. Assuming you want to drive the car mostly on the street.
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tradisrad
post Aug 12 2016, 02:36 PM
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I had this issue before and I had the tire shop balance the front wheels on the car. Only one shop in my area did this. 5 point tires in redwood city.
Good luck
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ssuperflyoldguy
post Aug 12 2016, 06:58 PM
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Old school: car on ground- grab wheels 3&9 and push pull and see if you feel any movement. Sometimes take 2 folks, some tiny clunks can only be found by holding some part of steering gear. Do the same top n bottom.

Really odd question but do you get up to speed at the same patch of road? Road grooves?

I had a bus which had very slight shake intemittantly - figured out that slightest wobble in both front wheels that when they synced up it would shake steering wheel - you could just slightly veer and it would go away...
Good luck
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Localboy808
post Aug 12 2016, 07:43 PM
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I agree with other who have said to check every nut and bolt. Had a similar issue. Ball joint to strut was loose. Have you tried hacking the front up and trying to move stuff around? Might reveal where the problem is. Good luck! Post up the solution to expand our knowledge! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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colingreene
post Aug 12 2016, 08:33 PM
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I put Lotus Joes car on a lift and checked all of it for play. none to be found.
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