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> Got a new compressor, should do the trick...
swood
post Nov 26 2004, 10:32 PM
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I don't know what this thing was supposed to come with, but all there is, is a big hole to thread in some pipe or something. Does anyone have photos of they're setup they can post so I can figure out how to get the air flowing and the grinder grindin?!

Muchos gracias.

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swood
post Nov 26 2004, 10:32 PM
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Rider914
post Nov 26 2004, 10:45 PM
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Looks like a good place for a pop off valve for safety!! What is the guage hooked to?
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hargray2
post Nov 26 2004, 11:02 PM
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Ok.


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hargray2
post Nov 26 2004, 11:04 PM
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Connect one of these to the threaded hole.


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914GT
post Nov 26 2004, 11:04 PM
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There should be a safety valve on the pressure switch. If you're in a hurry and not ready to do some plumbing, then attach a shutoff valve on the tank then connect some rubber air hose (biggest diameter you can get) to it. On the other end of the hose (25' -50') connect a filter/regulator unit. You need to screw this to the wall. Put a male quick release on it. From there hook up your air hose to your air tools. It's best to have the filter (water trap) a good distance from the tank so the air cools and the water condenses out. Putting it right at the tank doesn't work. Otherwise it will get water in your tools and not good on them. You can get an oiler on your filter/reg unit or put an oiler right at your air tool. Don't use an oiler on air going to a spray gun, or use a hose where oil was put through it. A permanent setup you can plumb copper or steel pipe (1").
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Jake Raby
post Nov 26 2004, 11:06 PM
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The big hole is where the air exits the tank and fills the rest of the system, or line...

The plastic cover you see can be removed to reveal a wiring diagram under its cover (most of the time) and this is where you will hook your 2 hots and a ground to power the unit (if it is 220V and not 110, if its 110 you'll have 1 neautral, one hot and a ground). There are air actuated adjustable points inside the cover to vary the tank pressure by opening and closing the electrical circuit that completes to the motor....

Its real simple...
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Rider914
post Nov 26 2004, 11:08 PM
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I like the label on the tank that says "pre wired" and the electric is not. Was this sold out of the back of a van? I would love to have something as strong as this - make a plug for your water heater or whatever you have in the garage that is 220v if it is (220v) and you are a occasional user - have it wired in if you need hot water and compressed air at the same time.
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Jake Raby
post Nov 26 2004, 11:23 PM
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It is prewired from the points to the motor....
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swood
post Nov 27 2004, 12:31 AM
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THis is at the pressure guage. There is a relief valve on the back side of the terminal. The open threaded hole is about 3/4" in diameter.


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swood
post Nov 27 2004, 12:37 AM
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Thanks guys. I didn't buy it off the back of a truck. But close though...Harbor Freight. I liked the tank size, oil lubed, gobs of air too and it wasn't too expensive.

Jake, I took my P&C's to Rimco. The skirt clearance was .0035" or so. ( haven't picked them up yet to see the actual measurements, I just called them to find out if it was too tight.) So, I think I'm in good shape there.

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hargray2
post Nov 27 2004, 12:40 AM
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Check this out. All you need to know. Good luck.
http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm
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swood
post Nov 27 2004, 12:48 AM
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QUOTE(hargray2 @ Nov 26 2004, 10:40 PM)
Check this out. All you need to know. Good luck.
http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

Daniel, thanks! THat says alot! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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scotty914
post Nov 27 2004, 12:49 AM
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the hole you see in the tank is normally either plugged (inspection hole its centered in the tank )or a bleed valve for rapidly draining the tank of air. there should be a place to hook up air lines, filters and hose closer to the top. now the above is for most compressors not all.

the prewired comment means the motor and pressure switch.also i know that is a 220 volt unit, most likely 30 amps but might be 40 or 50. but i recommend wiring with a plug like was said because code requires a shut off means and a plug qualifies. as well as it could be used for a welder, or second oven ( ovens are 40 to 50 amps but dont use all the burners and it would be okay ). and if it is over 50 feet to your panel have it wired in # 8 wire for voltage drop reasons.

NOW GO FORTH AND DO AS I SAY ( read with godly tone ) FOR THE CLUB MASTER ELECTRICIAN HAS SPOKEN

good luck
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swood
post Nov 27 2004, 12:53 AM
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QUOTE(scott thacher @ Nov 26 2004, 10:49 PM)


NOW GO FORTH AND DO AS I SAY ( read with godly tone ) FOR THE CLUB MASTER ELECTRICIAN HAS SPOKEN

good luck

HA HA HA. I shall obey!

Yeah it's 220v and 15 amps. It's going in its own room where the panel is. I'm having a new sub panel installed for it. It'll be just a couple feet away from it.
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Jake Raby
post Nov 27 2004, 09:02 AM
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Yep, .0035 is actually really loose, make sure you run tight ring gaps or she'll have blowby and oil consumption!
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swood
post Nov 27 2004, 11:14 AM
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Like .0035 per inch of bore? Found that on the Hastings site.

Hastings Rings

I'm sure that the rings were causing the drag in the cylinder before.
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