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> Euro Turn Signal Conversion $200.00 shipped
L-Jet914
post May 26 2013, 12:22 AM
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Martin Baker,
I ended up doing something like what you have done except not to the extent that you did. I bought a kit from Auto Atlanta which uses the 194 bulb at the time I was doing my Euro lense conversion and I had a friend of mine one night design the upper shield that slid onto the two lips inside the turn signal housings to keep light from going into the turn signal area with a piece of flat stock aluminium with a high polish on one end to redirect the light. If I knew that you had build shields for the bulb I would have come to you. Oh well. Great job on making those by the way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This is what I did. What do you think?
Before
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i98.photobucket.com-15080-1369549840.1.jpg)
After
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i98.photobucket.com-15080-1369549840.2.jpg)

the little shield my friend and I made (fits right into the curvature of the lense)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i98.photobucket.com-15080-1369549840.3.jpg)
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Martin Baker
post May 26 2013, 08:05 AM
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Looks good, I wanted to stay away from aluminum, and wanted to equal, or exceed the factory part. I silver solder together all the components in the refracter assembly, which will not have a ground issue in the future that aluminum might/will, but its not hard to make these yourself. I have become proficiant in the process, so I do some now and again, and its nice to provide a good part for the car that I love so much, and make some friends along the way. My 914 2.0, 914/6 GT and my 914/6 GT SONAUTO Replica mean very much to me! Not sure what I would do without them! NOW, that is a little twisted!

Martin
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L-Jet914
post May 27 2013, 01:14 AM
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I only used the aluminum for the shield itself. I have the bulb grounded through the lower turn signal lense screw if you look at the after picture, you can see the wire from the bulb kit. I have a 74 1.8L myself, my father is still the original owner, but now I drive, maintain and show the car. Keep up the good work. I will get a picture of my entire set up.
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Martin Baker
post Dec 20 2015, 07:30 PM
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I will have another set of these complete tomorrow. I just have to wire them up.

$200.00 shipped.

Thanks.

MB

(Photo taken in 1974, car was new. Friend, on the right, sent it to me. Gotta LOVE the 70's!)


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hcdmueller
post Dec 20 2015, 10:07 PM
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Pm sent.
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Martin Baker
post Dec 21 2015, 03:35 PM
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Thanks. Replied, and awaiting your usable housing.
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Martin Baker
post Dec 21 2015, 06:52 PM
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Here they are, ready to be shipped. New bulbs included.


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mharmon
post Dec 21 2015, 08:19 PM
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Martin's set is top notch and he's a great guy to deal with. Count me as a very satisfied customer.
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mtn flyr
post Dec 21 2015, 08:23 PM
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Pm coming
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Martin Baker
post Dec 21 2015, 08:37 PM
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OK first, THANKS Mike! I will take a pat on the back. I try my best. Every set of these I convert, I would use on my own car, and I want everyone to be satisfied when the install is finished..

Second, these are sold pending payment. Thank you, Dave for that.

I also sold a DIY set, so I will get those finished up tomorrow. Had to order parts.

Again thanks.

MB
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Mblizzard
post Dec 30 2015, 07:37 PM
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If you happen to do another set I would like to have a set please!
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Martin Baker
post Dec 31 2015, 12:05 AM
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QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Dec 30 2015, 05:37 PM) *

If you happen to do another set I would like to have a set please!


I would be glad to do a set for you. I am totally out of usable housings, so if you have a set that would be ideal, and save you some money as well. PM me for a shipping address once you have a good pair, and I will get them done for you.

MB
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Mblizzard
post Dec 31 2015, 11:53 AM
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QUOTE(Martin Baker @ Dec 30 2015, 10:05 PM) *

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Dec 30 2015, 05:37 PM) *

If you happen to do another set I would like to have a set please!


I would be glad to do a set for you. I am totally out of usable housings, so if you have a set that would be ideal, and save you some money as well. PM me for a shipping address once you have a good pair, and I will get them done for you.

MB


I may have a set. I will look and then PM you.
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scrz914
post Jan 1 2016, 11:54 PM
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Martin, if/when you have a DIY kit, I would like to purchase one.
BTW, have the euro lenses only exist as orange tint or are there red ones?
Thanks.
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Martin Baker
post Jan 2 2016, 11:36 AM
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I have never seen red in my life, could be custom,
& I sent you a PM.
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scrz914
post Jan 2 2016, 12:06 PM
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Responded. Thanks.
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Martin Baker
post Jan 5 2016, 02:05 PM
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Here is the photos for the DIY folks, thanks to them. I will start by saying this, don't wire up the socket with the type 89 bulb in the socket. You will need the slack in the wire or it could break under tension.

To start remove the housings wire terminal white cap. Use a long flat object to pop it off, to be 100% honest, I use a large flat file. It works perfect. Be very gentle, this plastic is old. And brittle. Take your time. Work it a little all the way around the circumference, not all at once, or it will break. You can also put a little heat on it with a heat gun to make it a little more pliable. USE COMMON SENSE.

Before the refractor is seated you will need to stretch the insulation on the wire. Do this with the tip of your index and thumb of both hands. It will get hot if you do it right. It needs to be thinner to fit the pins that retain it in the housing. Grab it at the base of the socket and stretch it toward the end. It will fit between the retaining pins much better.

Run the wire through the slot forward of the socket for the 1157 bulb.

Set the refractor in the housing. It should fit tight. If its a little loose in your housing, squeeze it a bit to get a better fit. I have a housing here I use to fit everyone, it is undamaged. They are all a bit different after 40 years.


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Martin Baker
post Jan 5 2016, 02:13 PM
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After the refractor is set in place, with the bulb removed, set the power wire. I use the big end of a valve core tool. You do not want to nick the wire. AVOID sharp tools.
If you damage the wire it will short against the housing. Start at the refractor end, keeping just a bit of tension on the wire, so it stays nice and straight down the run, don't make it like a guitar string.


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Martin Baker
post Jan 5 2016, 02:17 PM
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So now, your refractor is set, tight, wire is placed in the three set of retainers. Next flip the housing over to trim excess wire. Leave about an inch or a little more. Not much more.


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Martin Baker
post Jan 5 2016, 02:20 PM
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So now this is the important stuff. You will cut terminal 57 on the terminal cap. Of course you will have had to removed that earlier. It will look like this. MAKE SURE YOU CUT THE 57 TERMINAL. The BL terminal is Blinker. 31 is the ground.

The terminal seen here is really bad, hopefully yours are better. You can repair them, but having a spare or two is a good thing.


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