1st clutch change, Help needed to replace one? |
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1st clutch change, Help needed to replace one? |
georgia914 |
Nov 28 2004, 09:38 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 28-July 04 From: Hogansville, Ga. Member No.: 2,413 |
I am replacing the clutch in my 914. First time dropping the tranny, seemed simple enough...
1) Can I drop the shafts at the tranny by removing the cv bolts? 2) What tool to remove the cv bolts? looks like t-40 w/ more teeth 3) Any other surprises or tricks to make this happen? I have never done this before, and have not found any instructions or how to info... Thanks a million, Robert |
ClayPerrine |
Nov 28 2004, 10:06 AM
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#2
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,436 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
Yes, you can remove the CV joint bolts to disconnect the axles. The tool is a "triple square" not a torx. I don't remember the size. Suggestion, when you disconnect the CV joint, put a plastic bag over it to keep from loosing the grease. Also, when you go back with the CV bolts, make sure that you put in new CV gaskets, and that you torque the bolts correctly. If incorrectly torqued, they will back out and the CV joint can come off at speed. This could cause major damage, up to, and including a broken transmission case.
You also need to clean the pulley that the clutch cable runs over, and replace the throwout bearing, the pressure plate, and all the little plastic bits for the clutch arm while you are there. |
Bruce Allert |
Nov 28 2004, 10:47 AM
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#3
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Hellions asleep Group: Members Posts: 3,289 Joined: 19-March 03 From: Eagle Creek, Orygun Member No.: 441 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I did mine for the first time & it was quite fun actually. Remember that one of the bolts that hold it to the engine is inside the engine compartment. It is in combo with holding the starter. You can't get a socket on it from under (at least I couldn't)! Then you might want to get a shaft seal puller if you are going to change the shaft seal. Not sure if you will need to but I did.
Shaft Seal Puller Pic Just be sure you have enough room to work under there... there's never TOO much room (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) good luck..... ......b |
Rhodes71/914 |
Nov 28 2004, 10:56 AM
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#4
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Glacier Group: Members Posts: 1,374 Joined: 8-August 04 From: End of the Road, Alaska Member No.: 2,482 |
Here is the Pelican tech article on clutch replacement. Clutch Replacement
Pretty straight forward the bolt that Bruce in talking about is a PITA, just be careful not to drop the nut in the engine compartment, took me a while to find mine. As for the tool for the cv joints, I got a set at my FLAPS for under $10, looks like a torx but more teeth. Good luck |
scotty914 |
Nov 28 2004, 10:57 AM
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#5
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suby torque rules Group: Members Posts: 1,525 Joined: 20-July 03 From: maryland, the land of 25 year Member No.: 924 |
heres the the bird board tech article http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ch_replace1.htm
it covers it pretty well i got beat to the punch by 1 min while your in there ( it has started ) might as well change out your shifter bushing and clean up the rest of the shifting problems as well |
brp914 |
Nov 28 2004, 11:03 AM
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#6
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Unregistered |
As with any car work there is always the job itself, and then the "while you're there". As for the job I'd suggest a 914 repair manual and a good dose of common sense. But specifically:
clutch alignment tool 8mm 12 point (for the cv bolts) - Tap the tool into the bolt with a hammer so you dont strip them out. As for the "while you're there" I would suggest: - metal hinge piece on clutch fork (~$5) they often crack. - pilot bearing (mounts in flywheel). If this cheap little thing goes it will take your tranny input shaft with it. ($$$) - plastic bushing in clutch fork. cheap but PITA to remove. Dont break that fork! - felt washer for pilot bearing - cv joints - clean and repack them. look for cracks in the cage and galling in the inner/outer hubs. At a minimum this is a messy job. reassembling the joint can be tricky. but to me the peace of mind is worth it. those things will diabollically go at the most inopportune time (when not if) leaving you stranded. At a minimum, spin the wheels with the car jacked up and listen for a faint "click" indicating a cracked cage. - rear engine seal well, you're probably nodding off by now - good luck |
Dave_Darling |
Nov 28 2004, 12:52 PM
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#7
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,982 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Remember, the "triple square" tool is not Torx or Allen. All 12 corners on it are 90-degrees; using the wrong tool carries a strong risk of stripping the head! Clean the head out with carb cleaner (wear a face shield, carb cleaner can shoot back out of those holes and get around glasses--ask how I know!) and then use a mallet (or hammer) to tap the tool bit into the socket of the fastener.
Stripping the bolts turns that part of the job into a PITA. --DD |
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