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> 1971 Gold Metallic Project, The Turbo 1.7
McMark
post Jun 7 2013, 01:12 PM
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Current Status:
Running great!

I picked up this car late 2012 with the intention of flipping it. But never got anything done on it until I tore apart my Marathon Blue Metallic 73 to prepare it for WCR 2013, which of course didn't happen. So now this Gold Metallic 71 is my new driver.

Starting off at the beginning. Trekkor found the car and had it for sale. I picked it up from him without the engine, front bumper, rocker panels or wheels pictured below. Otherwise this is how the car came to me.


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McMark
post Jul 3 2013, 09:09 PM
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Yeah, I have the phenolic spacers.

Pump, nozzle, hose ordered.
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Mike Bellis
post Jul 3 2013, 09:15 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 3 2013, 08:09 PM) *

Yeah, I have the phenolic spacers.

Pump, nozzle, hose ordered.

I have a couple spare flow sensors if you need or want one for your setup. Simple in line fluid hall sensor... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Chris H.
post Jul 3 2013, 10:29 PM
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Hate to say it...but...based on the evidence presented...

You CAN turbo a 914... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

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r_towle
post Jul 4 2013, 04:31 AM
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You say you reached the limit, but what is the limit?
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bulitt
post Jul 4 2013, 05:27 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Good point. What are you trying to achieve Mark. What is the intended purpose for this application? You can continue to chase HP, but at what expense. The F1 1.5L engines in the late 80's where hitting 800bhp on rocket fuel, but had no longevity.

"Originally the turbo F1 engines from Renault, Ferrari, and BMW were running gasoline, but the rulemakers allowed "rocket fuel" which was actually gelled toluene.You know for damn sure it burnt super slow if it was gelled so it must have had some crazy high octane equivalent. With the new rocket fuel, the other engine manufacturers were already surpassing 800bhp in 1985. This 1.5L BD based 4 cylinder engine with staged turbos was bending crankshafts at 3.0 bar (absolute) boost @ 11,000rpm. Even with a redesigned crank and flywheel the complexity of the turbo setup and transmission was probably a complete clusterfcuk. I'm sure the engine only having 4 cylinders was probably another limitation for increasing power beyond 650bhp reliably. You have to remember that this was 1987 before the time of 3D modeling, FEA, simulations, etc. While Duckworth did redesign the clutch and flywheel to live at that power output, it was clear that it was going to be an uphill battle with a 4 banger. The good old boys in NASCAR back then probably weren't making 650bhp out of their 5.7L small blocks yet and here was the F1 crowd playing with 1.5L engines."
------------------------------------------------

Turbo ecotech's running close to 300hp-

" LNF
Ecotec LNF in a Pontiac Solstice

A turbocharged direct injected (redubbed Spark Ignition Direct Injection) Ecotec was introduced in the 2007 Pontiac Solstice GXP and Saturn Sky Red Line. In these applications, the engine is mounted longitudinally. Displacement is 2.0 L—1,998 cc (121.9 cu in)—with a square 86 millimetres (3.4 in) bore and stroke. Compression is 9.2:1 and maximum boost is 1.4 bar (20.0 psi), delivering 260 hp (190 kW) at 5300 rpm and 260 lb·ft (350 N·m) of torque from 2500 to 5250 rpm. Engine redline is at 6300 rpm and premium fuel is recommended. The sodium filled exhaust valves were based on technology developed for the Corvette V8 powertrains. The sodium fuses and becomes a liquid at idle, which improves conductivity and draws heat away from the valve face and valve guide towards the stem to be cooled by the engine oil circulating in this area. The camshaft-driven direct injection systems pressurizes the fuel to 31 bar (450 psi) at idle, and up to 155 bar (2,250 psi) at wide-open throttle. The "Gen II" block is similar to the 2.4 L and also features VVT technology. The Gen II block was developed using data from racing programs and computer simulations. The bore walls and bulkheads were strengthened with a weight increase of 1 kg (2.5 pounds). The coolant jackets were expanded to improve heat transfer, resulting in a coolant capacity increase of 0.5 liters.

In December 2008, GM released a Turbo Upgrade Kit for the LNF engine which increases horsepower to 290 hp (220 kW) and torque to up to 340 lb·ft (460 N·m), depending on the model. The kit retails for $650 and includes remapped engine calibration and upgraded MAP sensors. The kit is covered by the cars' existing GM warranties.[3]

Unique LNF features[4] include:

a twin-scroll turbocharger
cam-driven high-pressure gasoline direct injection fuel system
dual camshaft continuously variable valve timing
sodium-filled stainless steel Inconel exhaust valves
low-friction cast aluminum pistons with oil squirters
forged steel crankshaft
forged steel connecting rods
cast stainless steel exhaust manifold"
------------------------------------------------

Slippery slope $$$. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
But to the point, are you building a daily driver, putting a kit together, do you want to stop and add water, alcohol, octane boosters? Or if this is a one off then go for it, bigger injectors, bigger turbo, racing fuel? Reliability? HP?
Seems to me, by the interest from the community a kit would be well received. Then, a bolt on with zero driver involvement? Or a weekend only package with adding water/alcohol/root beer? Tailored to each buyer? Bolt on with stock internals? Forged?
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McMark
post Jul 4 2013, 08:37 AM
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Actually, I'm going after education. This project was never about building an engine for my car. In fact, I had a 2270 ready to bolt in and drive, but I chose the turbo 1.7 because it can teach me more. I want to try out the water injection because I'm curious just how large of an effect it can have.
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monkeyboy
post Jul 4 2013, 08:42 AM
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In that case I really think you need to get it on a dyno ASAP. Measure and quantify each step. I'd be interested in seeing each step and the power curve too.
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JStroud
post Jul 4 2013, 11:21 AM
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Mark are you sure you want me to sell the 1.7 in my garage......seems if you keep pushing that one you may need it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif)


Jeff
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McMark
post Jul 4 2013, 11:51 AM
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But I've got a stack of spares out in the side yard... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)
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r_towle
post Jul 4 2013, 02:05 PM
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are you using a multi spark system?
something to decrease the chance of detonation?

Does the megasquirt platform support tuning of a multi spark system?

Rich
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McMark
post Jul 4 2013, 03:10 PM
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It's coil-near-plug, but not multispark. AFAIK MegaSquirt doesn't support multispark, but I'm mostly familiar with the MicroSquirt variant.

Multispark mostly helps ignite a mixture that is having trouble igniting. So it helps at low RPM on engines where poor mixture quality may occasional not ignite (low RPM miss). So it won't help with detonation because it's the opposite problem.

I don't know if my engine is truly detonating (auto-ignition). It may not be truly uncontrolled ignition. It may just be that the extremely compressed and volatile air charge doesn't need much timing because it will burn so quickly.

I still have some more parts to acquire for the water injection system. So I may spend some time trying to truly optimize this setup. Looked up the dyno shop in Napa. $125/hour. This may be the best option (duh).
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McMark
post Jul 4 2013, 06:31 PM
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Fixed my fuel sender today. Now I'll know when I run out of gas. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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McMark
post Jul 9 2013, 09:22 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

I get my water injection stuff tomorrow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)
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Mike Bellis
post Jul 9 2013, 09:36 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 9 2013, 08:22 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

I get my water injection stuff tomorrow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)

I should have brought you a gallon of meth on Sunday...
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JStroud
post Jul 9 2013, 10:18 PM
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Just to give a little comparison to the level of power, I drove Marks turbo on Monday when I was there, didn't really open it up, but driving around the neighborhood near Marks house it feels a step above my fresh 2056 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I'm thinking when he gets it all dialed in it should be at or above a 2270 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Nice job Mark (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Jeff
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montoya 73 2.0
post Jul 10 2013, 01:13 AM
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Nice job Mark (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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Kraftwerk
post Jul 11 2013, 11:53 PM
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Mark,
I am thinking all the 1.7 Gold cars should be Turbo-ed.
So when can I send you my engine?
Would love a ride in yours at least!

good work




ps. Here is another original gold car in CA which needs love/turbo:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-914...f#ht_500wt_1143
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McMark
post Jul 16 2013, 08:24 PM
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I got a few pieces for my water injection project. I ordered a FloJet pump that works with water (fuel pumps won't work), has a run-dry safety feature and is self regulating so it only runs if the pressure drops.
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I got the nozzle and pressure hose. The nozzle is sized, so I got the smallest one, and I'll go up if I need to. I hooked it all up on the bench to test and the spray is identical to a patio-mister. I learned from this test that the water keeps spraying quite awhile after the pump turns off. I was originally going to set up the system to power the pump whenever I got boost pressure. But after this test I'm going to order a solenoid valve and keep the pump powered 'full time' and just open the valve under boost. This is where the pressure shutoff on the pump comes in handy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I'm going to run the pump up in the front trunk, just sitting loosely for now. Since the turbo motor isn't going to be in this car permanently I don't want to drill any holes. I also decided to use the washer bottle as my water/meth reservoir. It wasn't doing anything anyway. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I drilled the bottom so I could screw a 1/4" hose barb into the bottom and drilled the cap (it's sealed on a 914/4) to allow air in.
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I still need to order the solenoid valve and build the nozzle mount then do all the wiring.
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ConeDodger
post Jul 16 2013, 08:45 PM
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A thing to watch for on tear down with water injection with aluminum heads is leaching of the combustion chamber metal. This used to happen with Datsun heads that were water injected until we discovered we were destroying the heads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Mike Bellis
post Jul 16 2013, 08:52 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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