Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> I said I would post this when I had time., Splitting spot welds
rick 918-S
post Jun 14 2013, 09:01 PM
Post #1


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,460
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



This is the method I use to split spot welds. Some guys use the Blair spot weld drills. I have nothing against them but when I had my shop I found that my employees had no concern for the cost of the bits or the way they were using them. They would break the hardened cutters and toss them like a used rubber on prom night or they would over drill and end up weakening the attachment for the new panel.


If used correctly the Blair is a nice tool. The proper use is to use the cutter to score the sacrificial panel then use a air chisel or a hand chisel to split the panel. Nobody uses it that way. At least no one I've ever had the experience of seeing use the tool.

So, I imposed this method in my shop and would spot check the results to be sure my guys were doing it correctly.

This is my way not the only way.

First I trim away as much of the panel as I can and usually try to leave only the spot weld strip.

Run a grinder over the spot weld strip to show the spot welds.



Attached Image

Then I use a 3" grinder and grind the spot welds. My goal is to thin the metal not grind through.

Attached Image

Here is what it looks like after I grind.

Attached Image

I like to use a screw driver that I have sharpened to a chisel end. I work it in and around the spot welds until I get it split.

Attached Image

Here is what is left after I split the spots. Notice the actual spot welds are still showing on the body.

Attached Image
Attached Image


After grinding and prepping the body for the replacement panel.

Attached Image

This is not the fastest way but this is how I prevent damaging the car and weakening the metal I want to re-use on the body.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Cairo94507
post Jun 15 2013, 06:22 AM
Post #2


Michael
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 9,759
Joined: 1-November 08
From: Auburn, CA
Member No.: 9,712
Region Association: Northern California



Wow that is a very nice work. Hard to find shops that will go the extra mile these days to preserve the original metal in the best possible condition.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
TargaToy
post Jun 15 2013, 06:54 AM
Post #3


-NONSOLIS RADIOS SEDIOUIS FULMINA MITTO-
***

Group: Members
Posts: 692
Joined: 26-March 10
From: DelMarVa Peninsula
Member No.: 11,509
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Rick, Thank you! ...as always...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smiley_notworthy.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ChrisFoley
post Jun 15 2013, 07:02 AM
Post #4


I am Tangerine Racing
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,925
Joined: 29-January 03
From: Bolton, CT
Member No.: 209
Region Association: None



Very well demonstrated Rick!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bulitt
post Jun 15 2013, 05:44 PM
Post #5


Achtzylinder
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,188
Joined: 2-October 11
Member No.: 13,632
Region Association: South East States



"Hate" is an awful strong word. I hate spot welds!
So you must be using an actual spotwelder to reattach panels?
I think If I was doing major panel work I would invest in one.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ConeDodger
post Jun 15 2013, 05:53 PM
Post #6


Apex killer!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 23,588
Joined: 31-December 04
From: Tahoe Area
Member No.: 3,380
Region Association: Northern California



I actually use the spot weld drill bits. They are about $15-$18 each so Rick is right, abusing them is stupid. It takes a fine touch with the drill to use them properly. Go too deep and you have a hole where you will want metal for the new panel... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post Jun 15 2013, 08:33 PM
Post #7


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,574
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



Blah blah blah

I would have learned more if the was not the Benz...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Jun 15 2013, 09:16 PM
Post #8


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,460
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



QUOTE(bulitt @ Jun 15 2013, 06:44 PM) *

"Hate" is an awful strong word. I hate spot welds!
So you must be using an actual spotwelder to reattach panels?
I think If I was doing major panel work I would invest in one.


No you don't have to use a panel spotter to reinstall the panels. I have one but depending on what I'm working on I will either mig, tig, or spot weld.

How this whole discussion got started is when tomeric914 posted this thread

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=211105

And was posting about using the Blair spot weld drill to remove panels. So this is the thread I stated I would post. Now welding is a whole nuther thread... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Jun 15 2013, 09:18 PM
Post #9


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,460
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 15 2013, 09:33 PM) *

Blah blah blah

I would have learned more if the was not the Benz...


I gotsa finish this thing some day! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad2.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
stateofidleness
post Jun 16 2013, 11:45 AM
Post #10


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 810
Joined: 1-September 07
From: Canyon Lake, Texas!
Member No.: 8,065
Region Association: None



Rick,
Thanks for posting!

I'm toying with the idea of replacing the rear pans on mine after removing the tar coating and finding more rust than I thought... When looking at the underside of the car, it appears the whole floor was one piece?

I've seen the repro pans for sale and was wondering what is the best way to remove the exisiting pans cleanly in preparation for the new pans? How should it be cut properly to separate it from the "front" pans underneath the middle crossmember thing?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Jun 16 2013, 03:31 PM
Post #11


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,460
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



I look at the pan in the car and try to leave what I can of the original one. However you usually end up using the whole repair panel because where the original pan is welded to the longs it's usually rusty enough to merit just changing it. Some day maybe I can do a pan replacement how-to. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 17th May 2024 - 04:27 PM