Shift linkage adjustment |
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Shift linkage adjustment |
rjames |
Jun 17 2013, 12:52 PM
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#1
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I send DR. Evil a PM, but figured it wasn't fair to pester only him when I could pester the entire 914 community.
Newly rebuilt transmission just installed. Fairly new bushings (ball cup, firewall, rear coupling). Before the the trans was rebuilt I was able to shift into all gears. The only consistent problem I had was some times not being able to shift from 5th into 4th if the RPMs weren't just right. After installing the newly rebuilt trans I still had this problem so I decided to try adjusting the linkage at the shifter and somehow made things worse. I can get into all gears, but sometimes it takes several attempts for anything other than 1st and reverse. Even after getting it to go in gear I can take it out and then can't get it back in. Especially true for 2nd and 4th. I can't tell where it's binding, maybe at the shifter? What's the best way to determine where things are binding up at without an extra set of hands? Does a rebuilt trans take a while to 'break in'? |
Mblizzard |
Jun 17 2013, 01:24 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Dr. Evil is great and his advice priceless. But it took me a couple of times to really translate his instructions into a solution. Not because of his directions but just because I was not familiar with the process. But unless something is binding or the rebuild has a problem, it might be that you need to make an adjustment in the rod position in the tunnel.
He gave some pretty good advice in my thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=205321&hl= that might help. I think post 24 is what did it for me. |
rjames |
Jun 17 2013, 02:10 PM
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#3
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Dr. Evil is great and his advice priceless. But it took me a couple of times to really translate his instructions into a solution. Not because of his directions but just because I was not familiar with the process. But unless something is binding or the rebuild has a problem, it might be that you need to make an adjustment in the rod position in the tunnel. He gave some pretty good advice in my thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=205321&hl= that might help. I think post 24 is what did it for me. Thanks for the reply. I read that thread with interest several times. Post 24 made me wonder if my springs are bad, because I don't remember any 'automatic centering' taking place by the springs. The more I think about it, the more I'm starting to feel like something is binding somewhere as all of the gears seem to be where they should be, with relation to the shifter. I just can't always get in them very easily. Maybe it's time to pull the shifter and inspect. This it taking the fun out of installing my rebuilt tranny. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
Mblizzard |
Jun 17 2013, 05:37 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
My orginal shifter had bad springs. It did not work as the Dr said it would which lead to part of my confusion. Replaced shifter all was good. If you haven't got the notes from the Dr they are worth having.
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Dr Evil |
Jun 19 2013, 07:49 PM
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#5
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 22,999 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Side shifter with no short shift, correct? If you have no springs pushing your stick to center neutral (you should be fighting these when shifting into 1 and R) then this is an indication something is wrong in the shifter. Start there.
You checked the U joint bushings, correct?? |
rhodyguy |
Jun 20 2013, 09:00 AM
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#6
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
worn detent plate and or wear on the contact point on the shift lever? springs a shitey, greasy mess with debris caked on them limiting compression? spent bushings that cradle the ball on the lever? before you tear it apart, index the connection location both for/aft and side to side with a fine tip sharpie so you know what the current setup is.
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green914 |
Jun 20 2013, 12:10 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,467 Joined: 29-March 11 From: Sacramento, California Member No.: 12,874 Region Association: Northern California |
I recently had my transmission rebuilt and had a short shift kit installed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I like the way it shifts through all the gears - after it warms up - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) even after it is warmed up good, I still have troubles getting it into first gear every now and then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) when it does go into gear it grinds a little (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)
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rhodyguy |
Jun 20 2013, 12:14 PM
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#8
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
try putting the trans in to 2nd before 1st.
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green914 |
Jun 20 2013, 12:20 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,467 Joined: 29-March 11 From: Sacramento, California Member No.: 12,874 Region Association: Northern California |
try putting the trans in to 2nd before 1st. Thanks I'll try that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
rjames |
Jul 19 2013, 11:34 AM
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#10
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Side shifter with no short shift, correct? If you have no springs pushing your stick to center neutral (you should be fighting these when shifting into 1 and R) then this is an indication something is wrong in the shifter. Start there. You checked the U joint bushings, correct?? Correct. There is definitely spring resistance when shifting into 1 and R. Not sure how to tell if the springs more worn then they should be. U joint bushings are good and tight. I replaced the firewall bushings- no change. Rear shift rod bushing has a decent amount of play, but it's fairly new and came from Pelican that way. How tight should that bushing be? Sometimes downshifting into 4th is difficult as well. I've also nicked reverse when down shifting from 3rd- thought there was a lockout to keep that from happening. Also, how much play in the shifter should one have when it is in gear? \Seems like I've got quite a bit when in anything other than 1st or reverse. Most of the slop exists when in 2nd and 4th. Maybe bushings in the shifter itself need to be replaced? Mine is the only 914 I've driven before and have nothing to compare it to. |
Dr Evil |
Jul 19 2013, 12:25 PM
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#11
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 22,999 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
A lot of play can indicate the shifter itself needs to be rebuilt. Always a good thing to do.
For the rear bushing that the rod goes through, you can slip a piece of zip-tie in around it and it will keep it from wiggling as much. If your shifter console on the tranz is worn, I may have a better one I can trade you. |
rjames |
Jul 22 2013, 01:26 PM
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#12
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
A lot of play can indicate the shifter itself needs to be rebuilt. Always a good thing to do. For the rear bushing that the rod goes through, you can slip a piece of zip-tie in around it and it will keep it from wiggling as much. If your shifter console on the tranz is worn, I may have a better one I can trade you. Are all parts needed for a shifter rebuild available? I was under the impression that not everything was. RE: shift console, how does one tell if it's worn? |
Dave_Darling |
Jul 22 2013, 03:14 PM
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#13
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Grab the bushing and wiggle. If there's more than "a little bit" of slop, it's worn. In some cases (like my car), you can actually see the hole out around the edge of the bushing...
--DD |
JamesM |
Jul 22 2013, 04:53 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,900 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
A lot of play can indicate the shifter itself needs to be rebuilt. Always a good thing to do. For the rear bushing that the rod goes through, you can slip a piece of zip-tie in around it and it will keep it from wiggling as much. If your shifter console on the tranz is worn, I may have a better one I can trade you. Are all parts needed for a shifter rebuild available? I was under the impression that not everything was. RE: shift console, how does one tell if it's worn? Yeah where does one get a shifter rebuild kit? |
rjames |
Jul 22 2013, 05:54 PM
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#15
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Grab the bushing and wiggle. If there's more than "a little bit" of slop, it's worn. In some cases (like my car), you can actually see the hole out around the edge of the bushing... --DD Where is the bushing located? (Not sure if this is the correct diagram, I have a late model car) Does it require me removing the shfter to test the bushing? Attached image(s) |
Dave_Darling |
Jul 22 2013, 08:54 PM
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#16
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The bushing I'm talking about is the castle bushing through the side shift console. That's the bushing that snaps into the thing that has the black plastic cover that fills up with gear oil when your selector seal fails. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Not in your picture at all. (Plus your picture is for a tail-shift car anyway, so there is no side shift console.) No need to remove anything but the plastic cover to check the bushing. Wiggle the rod, and look for the bushing to move in its hole in the console. --DD |
rjames |
Jul 23 2013, 09:20 AM
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#17
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Sorry, Dave I misunderstood. I though you were talking about the shifter itself. I replaced the castle bushing recently with a new one from PP. There was some slop in it though. I can try puting something between the bushing and the space it fits in so it doesn't move around. Hard to believe that bushing would cause the symptoms I'm experiencing though.
Sometimes I even have a hard time even shifting out of gear, let alone puting it into gear. other times shifting is like butter. Getting to where i dislike driving the car. Not a good thing. Going back to the Dr's post, how does one tell if the shift console is worn? |
ChrisFoley |
Jul 23 2013, 10:58 AM
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#18
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,926 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
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Dr Evil |
Jul 25 2013, 09:23 PM
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#19
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 22,999 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Any improvement?
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rjames |
Jul 26 2013, 03:50 PM
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#20
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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