2 questions, oil and rust..... Options

[dale73914]

Hi All,

Wondering if some of you can help with advice.
Two issues.

1. The oil cooler i have here was installed before the PO even got the car.
So it's been on there about 7 years at least.
I do not currently have a temp gauge on the car but am looking to fit one as funds allow. There is NO factory cooler fitted.
I dont drive it on really hot days, only up about 90F.
Should i be concerned about this setup ??

2. the dreaded rot. This is what i can see. Rust in the sail ( and some small lumps under the vinyl where the holes are). There has been a previous repair too as some of what is lifting appears to be filler.
What would be the best way to repair this , Should i be ordering sails from Restoration Design and having them put in, or should i just have it cut out and patched. What is the general concensus ??
Given this rust, where else shuld i look, does this rust go hand in hand with another area ??
I know it's a big unknown , but im just trying to get a general feel for what i might expect.


Cheers

Dale

[bulitt]

You really need to determine the extent of your rust issue before you go ordering panels. You may only need a metal patch welded on. The sail area is a known rust spot as a big chunk of foam resides inside soaking up water.

Take a look at this thread and you will see identical rust issues and the procedure to repair them. Scotty B performed all this extraordinary work.

Bills Green Rust Bucket

Its a big picture file!

[JawjaPorsche]

When I pull my sail vinyl it was not as bad as I thought. Pull vinyl before ordering replacement. Here is tutorial I did

http://76.162.11.251/tuck/sailvinyl.htm

[dale73914]

Thanks Bob and Terry for your advice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Cheers

Dale

[billh1963]

Rust is always worse than it looks and there is always more rust than you think.

Trust me on that one!

[dale73914]

Yeah, I sort of expect that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Rust is always worse than it looks and there is always more rust than you think.

Trust me on that one!

[Cap'n Krusty]

A 1.7 with NO factory oil cooler? My first reaction is derisive laughter, then I ask "WHY"? Makes no sense. The remote cooler, especially where it's mounted, can't possibly work as well as the stock unit, and there's really no airflow while idling or driving in stop and go traffic.

The Cap'n

[Steve Snyder]

A 1.7 with NO factory oil cooler? My first reaction is derisive laughter, then I ask "WHY"? Makes no sense. The remote cooler, especially where it's mounted, can't possibly work as well as the stock unit, and there's really no airflow while idling or driving in stop and go traffic.

The Cap'n

Not to mention that you are venting hot air into your intake...

[Dave_Darling]

Dale, when you say "no cooler" do you mean no external cooler besides the one you're showing? No stock factory-built 914 ran an external cooler originally.

There was one that was part of the engine, under the engine tin on the passenger's side. If that one is missing (tough to determine; you can pull the engine tin or you can look up from underneath with a good light) then that would be a problem... But it is unlikely for that to be missing, IMHO.

--DD

[malcolm2]

You really need to determine the extent of your rust issue before you go ordering panels. You may only need a metal patch welded on. The sail area is a known rust spot as a big chunk of foam resides inside soaking up water.

Take a look at this thread and you will see identical rust issues and the procedure to repair them. Scotty B performed all this extraordinary work.

Bills Green Rust Bucket

Its a big picture file!

What I found about the rust around the sail & below the trim is that the vent tube that runs from inside the door to behind the shoulder belt roll up device (short 90 degree bent 2" dia tube) is that the factory WENT CRAZY with seam sealer above that tube. If you look inside the rear fender, with a BRIGHT LIGHT, toward the door latch and above, you will see it. Nearly impossible to remove all that THICK sealer. And if water gets in there, somehow, behind the sealer, you are done for. Yours looks like it has not made it all the way thru, go ahead and "pick that scab." See what it looks like under the paint.

I found a post about a nice repair that cleaned to seam sealer out after he cut the donor car. Sorry I did not save it, but it is here somewhere.

I used a heat gun and a pick, screwdriver, whatever I could find. It is rusting from the inside, the sealer has to come out. Then you can replace or repair.

[dale73914]

I'm at work, but will look again when i get home.
I am pretty sure there is NO original cooler in place.
Thats why i was a bit concerned.
Although someone local said to me that they didnt think it was an issue as the engine fan was sucking air into the engine bay, so they thought it was getting ventilation.

I just wonder if it is enough....

The car never had the engine hood rain tray on when the PO had it, and i try to never drive in the rain either but i got caught out one day not long after i bought it ( we live in a wet area ), so put it on, just in case.
( replaced the roof to windscreen seal with one from the sale price AutoAtlanta ones a few months ago too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) )


Will let you all though what i find...

Thanks

[dale73914]

Thanks Malcolm,

Cheers

Dale

You really need to determine the extent of your rust issue before you go ordering panels. You may only need a metal patch welded on. The sail area is a known rust spot as a big chunk of foam resides inside soaking up water.

Take a look at this thread and you will see identical rust issues and the procedure to repair them. Scotty B performed all this extraordinary work.

Bills Green Rust Bucket

Its a big picture file!

What I found about the rust around the sail & below the trim is that the vent tube that runs from inside the door to behind the shoulder belt roll up device (short 90 degree bent 2" dia tube) is that the factory WENT CRAZY with seam sealer above that tube. If you look inside the rear fender, with a BRIGHT LIGHT, toward the door latch and above, you will see it. Nearly impossible to remove all that THICK sealer. And if water gets in there, somehow, behind the sealer, you are done for. Yours looks like it has not made it all the way thru, go ahead and "pick that scab." See what it looks like under the paint.

I found a post about a nice repair that cleaned to seam sealer out after he cut the donor car. Sorry I did not save it, but it is here somewhere.

I used a heat gun and a pick, screwdriver, whatever I could find. It is rusting from the inside, the sealer has to come out. Then you can replace or repair.