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> V8 Question In general, Hoses
skline
post Dec 3 2004, 09:03 PM
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Ok, I just got in and fired it up, it was running fine and when I went to accelerate, the hose popped off the water pump and dumped a bunch of antifreeze. I know I had them all very tight. does this happen a lot? If it does, how can I make it so it doesnt to mine? Its a stock Renegade pump. This SUCKS!!! Antifreeze all over my garage floor, which is carpeted by the way.
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Andyrew
post Dec 3 2004, 09:06 PM
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Double clamp em... If that doesnt work, tripple clamp em...

I have them as tight as my wrench can go within reason (tighter than a screwdriver... Yes.... those waterpumps put out A LOT of pressure...

Possibly scoring the waterpump part might work as well..

All of mine are double clamped.

Andrew
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skline
post Dec 3 2004, 09:10 PM
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It wasnt even warmed up yet and the thing blew off shooting antifreeze all over my nice clean motor and up the rear window. So I am off to the flaps to pick up some more clamps. I just want to drive it. Jeesh. <_<
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914GT
post Dec 3 2004, 09:24 PM
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Scott,

I've found double-clamping to not be enough on the outlet side of the pump and up to the radiator. If your hoses are clamped onto smooth pipe or fittings there are things you can do to keep them from blowing off. On brass or copper you can sweat solder a turn or two of copper wire on the end to form a lip. Eastwood sells a tool to roll a lip on small tubing, but the wire trick is cheap and keeps the hose clamp from coming off. For steel pipe you can use threaded nipples which grip the hose on the inside. I have also cut grooves with a cutoff disk into the outside of unthreaded pipe to allow the hose to lock on. But just clamps on smooth fittings will eventually let go under heat, pressure, and vibration.
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Trekkor
post Dec 3 2004, 09:36 PM
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I have a V-8 in my boat. I think all the fittings are brass barbs. Some are actually 3/4 pipe so the hose has somthing to grip onto.
BTW, I always use permetex aviation form-a-gasket on all hoses and barbs.

KT
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rick 918-S
post Dec 3 2004, 10:54 PM
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God that sux! Carpet is ruined! I mig'd a bead of weld on all my steel cooling lines to prevent the hoses from sliding off. I drove the car to the MWC 04. We arrived late on a friday night. When I came out to the car on Saturday am I noticed some anti-freeze on the ground under the car. I checked my clamps and discovered a couple were loose. I think it had something to do with the harmonics of the engine at highway speed for 700 plus miles and the expansion and contraction of the heating and colling cycles. I tightened than up and they were fine. After you run the car for a while go back and check them.

BTW: I only have one clamp per connection. I thought I remember something about the Renegade pump causing cavatation if you rev the motor before the "T" stat opens.
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boxstr
post Dec 3 2004, 11:01 PM
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Scott, Drilling holes in the Tstat will help to releive "some" of the pressure at startup. I also had the same thing happen on a road test once. I checked my rear view mirror. Complete whiteout, pull over and found a long trail of antifreeze following me down the street.
I also double clamped the hoses and have not had the problem since.
CCLINANTIFREEZEPOLLUTER
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tesserra
post Dec 3 2004, 11:29 PM
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Did you put the 1/8 inch holes in your thermostat?
If you don't run a heater loop I think the water is not circulating through the motor and the pressure of the pump will cause problems.
As an added plus the small holes in the thermostat help purge the air.
Easy fix and it works.

George
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boxstr
post Dec 3 2004, 11:36 PM
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Correct, it doe's work. No heater in my 914-8.
CCLINV8914
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BIGKAT_83
post Dec 4 2004, 12:20 AM
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Which hose came off? One of the two going to the engine or the one coming from the radiator?

Bob. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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skline
post Dec 4 2004, 12:38 AM
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The one from the top side of the water pump going to the engine. It really comes out of there fast too. Needless to say, the pump works very well.
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dmenche914
post Dec 4 2004, 11:28 AM
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I'd try one of the tricks suggested in improving the hose mounting, like the brazed wire,(use wire of at least 1/8" dia wraped all away around ) barbed, or threaded fittings, (however threads can seep pressure so use a sealant also) etc.... rather than trying to reduce pressure.

I reliable hose attachment is paramount in importance. A newly installed hose should be made to stay on even if hose is bulging! This can only be achieved with use of a substantial ridge in front of the hose clamps (use at least two clamps).


use extreme care if any hoses are in the cockpit, or under the front cowl, where a leak can burn someone. Avoid this routing if at all possible, else install shields,a nd make bullet proof fittings. personnel experinece here. Scalding hot antifreeze pouring on the feet at the pedel cluster while on the freeway, Ouch!!!!


dave
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neo914-6
post Dec 4 2004, 01:53 PM
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Scott,
I have the Simpson w/p which takes threaded fittings. Get the fittings that have the features to hold the hose. You can also use clamps with spring loaded screws that stay tight. You can find these at bus and truck parts suppliers.
You may remember my car blew the w/p to engine hose right after the WCC04 breakfast. They were very old and hard so they actually burst with the pressure and heat. Make sure the hoses at the front of the engine are secure since they are the most difficult to replace.
Felix
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