Cost Estimates for Front Suspension Work, ...getting various quotes Options

[7TPorsh]

I need to replace the usual stuff on the front suspension. Basically replace shock inserts, ball joints, tie rods, with a new crossmember and drop spacer kit.

I would like to tackle this myself but I fear it will take me too many weekends and I won't have all the tools and presses I may need. My enthusiasm will be deflated very quickly.

So I decided to get some quotes. So far I have heard everything from what kind of car is that to $1200 for the job.

Again I would do this myself because I am a Teener CSOB but don't want to have the car out of action with an unknown resolve.

For a mechanic who knows what he/she is doing; what should this cost?

Anyone close by want some side work?

[7TPorsh]

Damn...wrong forum. Admin please move to Garage...thx

[OU8AVW]

I would say I have around 12 hours in the restoration of my front suspension including sand blasting all the parts and painting. Plus about $350 in parts including bushings, ball joints, standard tie rod ends and new fasteners. I still need an alignment.
Important to know what that $1200 includes.

[jimkelly]

as a ballpark, i'd say double or triple your parts cost.

don't overlook steering doughnut which requires fuel tank removal.

maybe -- San Diego, Ca.............Sean V8 914......www.sdautosport.com -- is your guy?

[rhodyguy]

+ an alignment. if you front end has the double taper balljoint fasteners order 2 new ones while you're shopping. installing all of the above is fairly simple. you should be able to finish up in a weekend if you don't get all carried away with the strut painting. less time with a work party including someone who's done it perviously . is there a reason for a new crossmember? if the stock rubber control arm bushings are crap you might consider one of the alternatives 'while you're in there'.

k

[B2524]

my $.02:

buy another set of suspension parts and restore them off line. then do a swap in a weekend. you can buy stock suspension parts for next to nothing. consider upgrading like putting BMW front calipers on. they are cheap and way better than stock.

the work is easy just unbolt remove and replace then have it aligned.

i have a FREE roller you could take all the parts off if you TAKE the car home with you.

or look for parts on the RECYCLER web site since you are down in So Cal. Craigslist also has cheap stuff.

one thing to consider, use 912 parts that someone is converting to 911, or early 911 that someone went to SC with. that way you can pick up some cheap 911 torsion bars. buy used and save a lot. many people who track their cars are constantly moving to better stuff so used race stuff is out there.

good luck.

[7TPorsh]

All good...some more info. I have the parts I want to replace already...listed.

I am changing the crossmember because it is pretty crusty. Arms look good. Just a clean up and replace on the ball joints, ties rods, etc.

I don't have space or a tolerant family to have a BBQ at home for the purposes of "fixing my lawnmower".

I can't do it myself because of lack of proper knowledge and proper tools, having only two hands, and not wanting to be down for weeks.

Ideally I need a local Teener who can offer up some space for a BBQ and I can host the food and bar to get the work done.

Second choice would be to drive the car to someone to replace the parts (force myself to pay a reasonable amount) and drive out. I can get it aligned at a lot places.

[euro911]

If you get all the parts ready to do the job and some volunteers lined up (and grub for the BBQ) bring it down to my shop (Harbor City).

Maybe we could do yours and mine in the same day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[bdstone914]

If you get all the parts ready to do the job and some volunteers lined up (and grub for the BBQ) bring it down to my shop (Harbor City).

Maybe we could do yours and mine in the same day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Gary,

Give me a call and I think I can help you beat that 1200 price.
I have done several suspensions and have some options including going to 911 arms, torsion bars and under body sway bar.
951 536 7478
Bruce

[rhodyguy]

you really don't need any specialty tools i can think of. what does a set of appropriate new boges run these days? you CAN do everything yourself! just learn how, it's not like there's not a ton of members in so cal.

k

[Cairo94507]

Some very generous offers from some very knowledgable members. I love this place.

[JStroud]

If you get all the parts ready to do the job and some volunteers lined up (and grub for the BBQ) bring it down to my shop (Harbor City).

Maybe we could do yours and mine in the same day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

This sounds like a very generous offer, you should take him up on it.
You'll learn a lot about your car, save some money, and meet some good people..... How could you lose.

Jeff

[rhodyguy]

i missed mark's offer. that would be plan 1 if i were you.

[SLITS]

I will only charge you $999. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[76-914]

Second choice would be to drive the car to someone to replace the parts (force myself to pay a reasonable amount) and drive out. I can get it aligned at a lot places.
[/quote]
That you can but I'll bet you a nickle to a donut that it will be WRONG unless you know who to deal with. Slits knows a guy in your area named Manny. Tip him. He's damned good and can do your "914" wheel alignment blind folded.

[SLITS]

Manny is probably still at Bud's Tire & Wheel in Riverside. Does all the local Porsches plus the Dealership / Repair Shop's cars.

Works by appointment.

Bring extra rear shims with you.

I don't know if Johnson's Alignment in Torrance is still in business, but they used to do the 914/6 race car many years ago.

[Dave_Darling]

you really don't need any specialty tools i can think of.

An air hammer/air chisel for the ball joints. Even out of the Rust Belt, it will take approximately never to pound out the taper pins (always replace). A couple of quick zaps with the air chisel and they'll be out. The chisel is also handy on the retaining nut on the bottom of the joint; the specialty "ball joint wrench" isn't strong enough to break those loose.

The 70-72 914s use either bolts or straight pins, the 73+ 914s use taper pins (always replace). Why do I call them "taper pins (always replace)"? Because the Bentley 911SC manual never refers to them without saying "(always replace)", and the SC uses the same taper pin (always replace) as the later 914s do.

So yeah, you might want to replace those while you're at it...

--DD

[euro911]

Bruce called me yesterday, and we talked about possibly hosting a joint-effort front end rebuild tech day/BBQ.

I'll start another thread if there's enough positive input, we could start organizing something and schedule it for a Saturday in September (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[SLITS]

Bruce called me yesterday, and we talked about possibly hosting a joint-effort front end rebuild tech day/BBQ.

I'll start another thread if there's enough positive input, we could start organizing something and schedule it for a Saturday in September (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Not the 7th PERIOD!!!!!!!

[rhodyguy]

dave, there used to be a disclaimer on the bird about the ball joint wrench that its for installation only. i tend to take for granted that just about everyone owns a compressor and a brace of pneumatic tools. copious application of a good penetrant is required for the ball joint retaining nut imho. prob some hard tapping with a hammer around the outside.