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> Door check strap clicks, any solutions?
914ltd
post Aug 11 2013, 08:25 PM
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A real common 914 problem: The tabs mounted on the door post have worn and allow the new check strap to click as it reaches the next detent. A larger pin would eliminate the problem but enlarging the holes on the tabs is a problem with clearance issues. Any bright ideas? Thanks, Brad


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Dave_Darling
post Aug 11 2013, 10:05 PM
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You need a buddy with a welder and a six-pack of beer (or other "do-me-a-favor" payment). And a good drill of the right size.

--DD
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siverson
post Aug 12 2013, 12:09 AM
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> The tabs mounted on the door post have worn

I've wondered about that. Is that where the clicking is coming from? Hmm...

-Steve
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McMark
post Aug 12 2013, 12:41 AM
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QUOTE
Is that where the clicking is coming from? Hmm...

Yup.
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Bartlett 914
post Aug 12 2013, 10:48 AM
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I had the same problem with my green car. It wasn't too bad opening the hole to .250" and I used a 1/4" pin. I think I reamed it using a reamer and pliers. No room for a proper holder. 6mm =.236 vs .250 this is .007 per side. Considering it already oversize, even less.
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r_towle
post Aug 12 2013, 12:10 PM
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right angle die grinder with a milling bit attached, or a grinding bit.

Rich
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914ltd
post Aug 18 2013, 05:42 PM
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I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad
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partwerks
post Aug 18 2013, 09:44 PM
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Brad,

Would clamping a piece of brass over the hole and spot welding it shut, and re drilling it to the correct size, work??
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Mike Bellis
post Aug 18 2013, 11:53 PM
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I removed the one on the drivers side. Fuch it... Stupid clicking... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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914ltd
post Aug 19 2013, 06:22 AM
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QUOTE(partwerks @ Aug 18 2013, 07:44 PM) *

Brad,

Would clamping a piece of brass over the hole and spot welding it shut, and re drilling it to the correct size, work??


The problem is the tabs are too close to the door post. Even a right angle drill won't work.
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Firstcar
post Aug 19 2013, 07:02 AM
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I used a short bolt with a nylon nut in place of the pin. The bolt was large enough diameter to fill the hole in the stay (1/4"?) and just long enough to secure a nylon nut underneath the tabs. Easy to install and tighten. I tightened the nut just enough to stop the stay from moving and clicking. Not stock, but works great and is reversible.
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Firstcar
post Aug 19 2013, 07:04 AM
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QUOTE(Firstcar @ Aug 19 2013, 09:02 AM) *

I used a short bolt with a nylon nut in place of the pin. The bolt was large enough diameter to fill the hole in the stay (1/4"?) and just long enough to secure a nylon nut underneath the tabs. Easy to install and tighten. I tightened the nut just enough to stop the stay from moving and clicking. Not stock, but works great and is reversible.


Make that a nyloc nut (damn spell check)
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r_towle
post Aug 19 2013, 11:12 AM
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QUOTE(914ltd @ Aug 18 2013, 07:42 PM) *

I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad

Is this a hand operated tool?
Something like a socket wrench can be used?

There is a kit for this on a 356, and a beetle, same issue really.

rich
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Bartlett 914
post Aug 19 2013, 11:50 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Aug 19 2013, 12:12 PM) *

QUOTE(914ltd @ Aug 18 2013, 07:42 PM) *

I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad

Is this a hand operated tool?
Something like a socket wrench can be used?

There is a kit for this on a 356, and a beetle, same issue really.

rich

I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. There really isn't a lot of room to work. I did this a long time age (The car is now scrapped). I think I used either pliers or vice grips to turn it a little at a time. The hole is already oversize so you are not talking off a lot of material. The reamer can then do the lower hole first reaming in the up direction then push through to do the top hole. I think that is how I did it. This way both are the same diameter and in line with each other. 5 to 10 min max to do it
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cary
post Aug 19 2013, 09:25 PM
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I put in a brass bushing from the little drawers at Ace hardware.
Did it on my 911.
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ChrisFoley
post Nov 21 2013, 04:14 PM
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QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Aug 19 2013, 12:50 PM) *

I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop.

Like this:
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I ground a square on the end of a shortened .250" reamer to fit into the 3/16" square ratchet. Worked perfectly.
We tried several 1/4" clevis pins from McMaster. The best fitting ones were bare steel unfortunately.
A good choice for diy is a 1/4" bolt with long straight shank cut to length and drilled for a cotter pin.
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Bartlett 914
post Nov 21 2013, 06:59 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Nov 21 2013, 05:14 PM) *

QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Aug 19 2013, 12:50 PM) *

I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop.

Like this:
Attached Image

I ground a square on the end of a shortened .250" reamer to fit into the 3/16" square ratchet. Worked perfectly.
We tried several 1/4" clevis pins from McMaster. The best fitting ones were bare steel unfortunately.
A good choice for diy is a 1/4" bolt with long straight shank cut to length and drilled for a cotter pin.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The ratchet is a bit improvement. I think I just used an open end wrench
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