Door check strap clicks, any solutions? |
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Door check strap clicks, any solutions? |
914ltd |
Aug 11 2013, 08:25 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 239 Joined: 18-April 03 From: Peoria, IL Member No.: 581 Region Association: None |
A real common 914 problem: The tabs mounted on the door post have worn and allow the new check strap to click as it reaches the next detent. A larger pin would eliminate the problem but enlarging the holes on the tabs is a problem with clearance issues. Any bright ideas? Thanks, Brad
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Dave_Darling |
Aug 11 2013, 10:05 PM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,981 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
You need a buddy with a welder and a six-pack of beer (or other "do-me-a-favor" payment). And a good drill of the right size.
--DD |
siverson |
Aug 12 2013, 12:09 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,448 Joined: 5-May 03 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 654 Region Association: Southern California |
> The tabs mounted on the door post have worn
I've wondered about that. Is that where the clicking is coming from? Hmm... -Steve |
McMark |
Aug 12 2013, 12:41 AM
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#4
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
QUOTE Is that where the clicking is coming from? Hmm... Yup. |
Bartlett 914 |
Aug 12 2013, 10:48 AM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,214 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I had the same problem with my green car. It wasn't too bad opening the hole to .250" and I used a 1/4" pin. I think I reamed it using a reamer and pliers. No room for a proper holder. 6mm =.236 vs .250 this is .007 per side. Considering it already oversize, even less.
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r_towle |
Aug 12 2013, 12:10 PM
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#6
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,563 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
right angle die grinder with a milling bit attached, or a grinding bit.
Rich |
914ltd |
Aug 18 2013, 05:42 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 239 Joined: 18-April 03 From: Peoria, IL Member No.: 581 Region Association: None |
I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad
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partwerks |
Aug 18 2013, 09:44 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,593 Joined: 7-September 06 From: Grand Island, NE Member No.: 6,787 |
Brad,
Would clamping a piece of brass over the hole and spot welding it shut, and re drilling it to the correct size, work?? |
Mike Bellis |
Aug 18 2013, 11:53 PM
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#9
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
I removed the one on the drivers side. Fuch it... Stupid clicking... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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914ltd |
Aug 19 2013, 06:22 AM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 239 Joined: 18-April 03 From: Peoria, IL Member No.: 581 Region Association: None |
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Firstcar |
Aug 19 2013, 07:02 AM
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#11
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Obsessive amateur mechanic Group: Members Posts: 97 Joined: 17-March 11 From: MA -South Shore Member No.: 12,831 Region Association: North East States |
I used a short bolt with a nylon nut in place of the pin. The bolt was large enough diameter to fill the hole in the stay (1/4"?) and just long enough to secure a nylon nut underneath the tabs. Easy to install and tighten. I tightened the nut just enough to stop the stay from moving and clicking. Not stock, but works great and is reversible.
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Firstcar |
Aug 19 2013, 07:04 AM
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#12
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Obsessive amateur mechanic Group: Members Posts: 97 Joined: 17-March 11 From: MA -South Shore Member No.: 12,831 Region Association: North East States |
I used a short bolt with a nylon nut in place of the pin. The bolt was large enough diameter to fill the hole in the stay (1/4"?) and just long enough to secure a nylon nut underneath the tabs. Easy to install and tighten. I tightened the nut just enough to stop the stay from moving and clicking. Not stock, but works great and is reversible. Make that a nyloc nut (damn spell check) |
r_towle |
Aug 19 2013, 11:12 AM
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#13
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,563 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad Is this a hand operated tool? Something like a socket wrench can be used? There is a kit for this on a 356, and a beetle, same issue really. rich |
Bartlett 914 |
Aug 19 2013, 11:50 AM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,214 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad Is this a hand operated tool? Something like a socket wrench can be used? There is a kit for this on a 356, and a beetle, same issue really. rich I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. There really isn't a lot of room to work. I did this a long time age (The car is now scrapped). I think I used either pliers or vice grips to turn it a little at a time. The hole is already oversize so you are not talking off a lot of material. The reamer can then do the lower hole first reaming in the up direction then push through to do the top hole. I think that is how I did it. This way both are the same diameter and in line with each other. 5 to 10 min max to do it |
cary |
Aug 19 2013, 09:25 PM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,900 Joined: 26-January 04 From: Sherwood Oregon Member No.: 1,608 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I put in a brass bushing from the little drawers at Ace hardware.
Did it on my 911. |
ChrisFoley |
Nov 21 2013, 04:14 PM
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#16
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,909 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. Like this: I ground a square on the end of a shortened .250" reamer to fit into the 3/16" square ratchet. Worked perfectly. We tried several 1/4" clevis pins from McMaster. The best fitting ones were bare steel unfortunately. A good choice for diy is a 1/4" bolt with long straight shank cut to length and drilled for a cotter pin. |
Bartlett 914 |
Nov 21 2013, 06:59 PM
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#17
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,214 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. Like this: I ground a square on the end of a shortened .250" reamer to fit into the 3/16" square ratchet. Worked perfectly. We tried several 1/4" clevis pins from McMaster. The best fitting ones were bare steel unfortunately. A good choice for diy is a 1/4" bolt with long straight shank cut to length and drilled for a cotter pin. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The ratchet is a bit improvement. I think I just used an open end wrench |
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