Door check strap clicks, any solutions? |
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Door check strap clicks, any solutions? |
914ltd |
Aug 11 2013, 08:25 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 239 Joined: 18-April 03 From: Peoria, IL Member No.: 581 Region Association: None |
A real common 914 problem: The tabs mounted on the door post have worn and allow the new check strap to click as it reaches the next detent. A larger pin would eliminate the problem but enlarging the holes on the tabs is a problem with clearance issues. Any bright ideas? Thanks, Brad
Attached image(s) |
914ltd |
Aug 18 2013, 05:42 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 239 Joined: 18-April 03 From: Peoria, IL Member No.: 581 Region Association: None |
I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad
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r_towle |
Aug 19 2013, 11:12 AM
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#3
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad Is this a hand operated tool? Something like a socket wrench can be used? There is a kit for this on a 356, and a beetle, same issue really. rich |
Bartlett 914 |
Aug 19 2013, 11:50 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad Is this a hand operated tool? Something like a socket wrench can be used? There is a kit for this on a 356, and a beetle, same issue really. rich I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. There really isn't a lot of room to work. I did this a long time age (The car is now scrapped). I think I used either pliers or vice grips to turn it a little at a time. The hole is already oversize so you are not talking off a lot of material. The reamer can then do the lower hole first reaming in the up direction then push through to do the top hole. I think that is how I did it. This way both are the same diameter and in line with each other. 5 to 10 min max to do it |
ChrisFoley |
Nov 21 2013, 04:14 PM
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#5
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,926 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. Like this: I ground a square on the end of a shortened .250" reamer to fit into the 3/16" square ratchet. Worked perfectly. We tried several 1/4" clevis pins from McMaster. The best fitting ones were bare steel unfortunately. A good choice for diy is a 1/4" bolt with long straight shank cut to length and drilled for a cotter pin. |
Bartlett 914 |
Nov 21 2013, 06:59 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. Like this: I ground a square on the end of a shortened .250" reamer to fit into the 3/16" square ratchet. Worked perfectly. We tried several 1/4" clevis pins from McMaster. The best fitting ones were bare steel unfortunately. A good choice for diy is a 1/4" bolt with long straight shank cut to length and drilled for a cotter pin. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The ratchet is a bit improvement. I think I just used an open end wrench |
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