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> Updates to my 914 and brake questions, brakes, fuel system, ignition, wheels, tires,
stefs914
post Aug 20 2013, 09:48 PM
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Here's a quick update on what i have been doing to my porsche it hasn't been much sense i've been tight on cash but a little progress is progress non the less (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I started by finally getting the thing clean, then i removed all my old ignition parts and replace them and bought a new battery and she turned over and tried to fire but i already removed the fuel lines so there was no chance of it running. Then i moved to the fuel system pulled the old tank out.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) smelled like like old lacquer and rotten beer... after i got them out i'm starting on new fuel lines and filter, and now i have my por-15 tank cleaner/sealer kit on its way. After that i have always wanted to powder coat my wheels copper just because i think it would be unique and the tires and wheels were shot! My problem was i had to dismount the tires myself which if you've ever done it with a small collection of tools, it is a pain!!!! Now i'm in the process of cleaning all the old rust off the wheels. Then i found out my father in laws business does commercial powder coating so i'm going to get them powder coated for free.

If you've actually read this far here is my dilemma the brakes when i got the car were locked, so i'm trying to decide what i do buy the caliper seal kit and just buy brand new caliper kit. If you have any suggestions please let me know. I will try my best to keep posting about the next steps and what happens after i get the fuel system hooked up and start her up for the first time. Again thank you so much for the input!

Stefan


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steuspeed
post Aug 21 2013, 12:06 AM
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Direct your questions about brakes to Eric at

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog.html
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nathansnathan
post Aug 21 2013, 06:40 AM
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A lot of times when the car has been sitting and the brakes lock up, it is the rubber lines to the calipers that the liner goes and brake fluid can't get back out so the brakes stick on. First thing that needs changing on a car that has sat is rubber brake lines, maybe all you need?
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Cairo94507
post Aug 21 2013, 07:26 AM
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Save yourself a lot of grief and frustration and call Eric at PMB. He will talk you through whatever is the best solution for your particular needs. Do it once, do it right and be done with it.
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rhodyguy
post Aug 21 2013, 07:34 AM
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odd place to mount the coil. long dangling wires...
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cwpeden
post Aug 21 2013, 07:46 AM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 21 2013, 06:34 AM) *

odd place to mount the coil. long dangling wires...


Yeah, its like fishing for cooling fans. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I recommend cleaning out the carbs too. I did the same. Tried to start a car that hadn't run for years and ended up filling the engine with gas. electric pump just ran and ran. Wasn't paying attention until the gas was pouring out on the floor.
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stefs914
post Aug 22 2013, 09:00 PM
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QUOTE(cwpeden @ Aug 21 2013, 08:46 AM) *

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 21 2013, 06:34 AM) *

odd place to mount the coil. long dangling wires...


Yeah, its like fishing for cooling fans. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I recommend cleaning out the carbs too. I did the same. Tried to start a car that hadn't run for years and ended up filling the engine with gas. electric pump just ran and ran. Wasn't paying attention until the gas was pouring out on the floor.


I cleaned the carbs out first thing when i got it. I also ran the wires exactly the way they were before not at all saying it was right just trying my best with what little knowledge i have. Like i said in earlier posts any info is appreciated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I will have to give Eric a call sounds like he's the man.
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ConeDodger
post Aug 22 2013, 09:04 PM
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QUOTE(stefs914 @ Aug 22 2013, 07:00 PM) *

QUOTE(cwpeden @ Aug 21 2013, 08:46 AM) *

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 21 2013, 06:34 AM) *

odd place to mount the coil. long dangling wires...


Yeah, its like fishing for cooling fans. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I recommend cleaning out the carbs too. I did the same. Tried to start a car that hadn't run for years and ended up filling the engine with gas. electric pump just ran and ran. Wasn't paying attention until the gas was pouring out on the floor.


I cleaned the carbs out first thing when i got it. I also ran the wires exactly the way they were before not at all saying it was right just trying my best with what little knowledge i have. Like i said in earlier posts any info is appreciated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I will have to give Eric a call sounds like he's the man.


Actually, we're not at all sure he is a man. He is often seen wearing tights and a fake unicorn head. But, he does know brakes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Aug 23 2013, 05:17 AM
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Robbie...


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Eric_Shea
post Aug 23 2013, 05:39 AM
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The worst thing that can happen to brakes is to have them sit for years. All is basically toast.

You can "attempt" to bring them back to life with a couple quarts of new fluid and a day of trying to move pistons back and forth etc. but in the end you'll have bad brakes and you'll have wasted a couple $10's on brake fluid.

What has happened is water has hydroscopically gotten into the system and gathered around the seals. That and, as a previous poster mentioned, the soft lines may have swelled. After the car sits, that water gathers around the rubber seals and rusts the piston in the bore. If it sits long enough, the pistons in the calipers can be ruined but chances are everything is good... just good and stuck.

This is an important step that most people miss when rebuilding brakes; we don't plate for bling, we plate for longevity of the rebuild. The bores, with all of the rust, have lost a good deal of plating. One of the worst tools ever invented is a brake hone. It will clean out all that rust and leave your open, hydroscopic system with a fresh steel surface. Your pistons are also fresh steel. What happens when fresh steel meets fresh steel and... atmospheric moisture?

So, your bores actually need to be replated at this point. You have options:

1. Google metal finishers in Lincoln. Check on plating prices and we have all the kits and seals.
2. Get a "Copy Cad" kit from Caswell and do it yourself. Again, we have all the kits and seals.
3. We can plate them for $60.00 per pair. (fasteners are $2.00 each)
4. You can get a U-DO-IT Kit from us with all of the plated pieces and seals or...
5. You can get completed calipers from us or Stoddard or Pelican

Plating your caliper upon rebuilding them ensures they'll last another 30-40 years. Zinc is what the factory used as it is a sacrificial coating and is much better than cad at protecting the metal. All ATE calipers are yellow zinc. Split the 1/2's and you'll often see a very fresh bright yellow zinc surface. Some think clear as the yellow dichromate can fade and wear over the years but... they're yellow zinc.

Beyond that, caliper restoration isn't rocket science (with a slight exception of the rears). Your problem will be with the stuck pistons. Fluid (water, grease and brake fluid are some examples) is the only way to get the pistons out at this point. Compressed air will not work on pistons that are currently stuck and/or binding.

Good luck!

E.
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Eric_Shea
post Aug 23 2013, 06:10 AM
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(I think that's a perfect spot for your coil) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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stefs914
post Sep 6 2013, 07:17 PM
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Just ordered Brake lines and seals from you Eric. I will be having the calipers zinc plated locally. thanks for all the info.
Also i had to clean up my wheels before powder coating i got nice and dirty but the results were pretty awesome! Attached Image


Also had a question on these wheels are they aftermarket or are they something that the 914 would've came with from the factory?
thanks guys! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) heres to the weekend!
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Jon H.
post Sep 7 2013, 05:04 AM
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Those are aftermarket. I wish I had access to free powder coating (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Jon
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