mig questions, sample pics added Options

[76-914]

Here's some welding stuff. Copper strip use on page 3.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...107923&st=0

And here is some info on splitting spot welds. Lots of ways to get the end result. This is just one I use.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=212470&hl=

I read this post originally and thought that your grinding method does indeed make sense. I shall try that approach next time. Good tip!

[jimkelly]

per andyrew's request - here are some samples at different settings.

front and back of panel - thickness I am not certain of, could be 20 gage??

wire is 030

all done push style from bottom to top - but I barely see the molten puddle, I see the bright molten area as the sparks are flying but I don't linger there enough that I can say I am pushing a puddle at all.

oh, and in between the top and bottom bead, I layed 2-3 tacks

and for some reason, I keep reaching for the bottom knob - less today - for amps vs wire speed, I need to take my time and really look when I make setting changes.

[Andyrew]

That's a great way to learn what the settings do.

To be honest 2.5b looks like the best setting for that metal. Its definitely about 20 ga if it reacts like that.

Your optimum weld is one where you jave your bead up top but just a tiny bit of metal coming on the back side. You see that with 2.5b

3c looks more like its putting a lot of metal down. There is almost as much weld above the metal ad below it. This will cause metal warpage as you see a lot of heat being thrown around.

Now do 10 lines of 2.5b and 10 of 3c. And post the pic. We need to work on your form.
Be aware you can weld with any of these settings and lots of times you will as your metal is never the perfect thickness while working on cars.. sometimes its geound down or really thin, ext.

After you did the 20 lines cut the signs in half and lay them over each other with about 1" of overlap. You'll be doing a lap weld. Use the 3c setting for this on 1/2 the pannel and 2.5b setting on thr other half. Weld a 2" line, skip an inch and wait 10 seconds contemplating and adjusting your techique (not settings).

After that do a butt weld with no gap same thing

Then when your done with all that drill some 1/4" holes and weld them up. Use the a 2.5b setting or even 3b (c will make to much heat). Work in tacks around the hole till you have tacks all the way around it, then lay a quick bead over those tacks and a small bit in the middle to join it. This will teach you how to prevent form just burning through the metal when you hit thin or rusty spots. Go up to 3/4" holes when your confident.

When you can do all that you'll be able to really handle welding on the body.
Good luck and keep us posted!

[jimkelly]

rcvd my eastwood sheet metal guage today, I mentioned it above, and my signs are 20 gage.

edit: 22 gage with paint fully removed.

nice little handy tool, about 3" diameter

[rfuerst911sc]

I had my oxy/acetylene gauges rebuilt by a shop and the old codger behind the counter said you always want to purge the lines to take the pressure off the diaphrams so I always do. Do it on my mig also. My Hobart has a purge setting so no wasted wire. To the OP just keep practicing you will get the hang of it. You also might try making tiny circles as you push/pull the wire to spread the heat/bead around a little. Have fun.

[two-strokejohn]

If you go with the .023 wire............ don't forget to change the contact tip.......doesn't weld right if you forget. Ask me how I know ! I use the sp-135 welder with .023 and it works great for my projects.

[jimkelly]

I think i'm gonna hit home depot today for 023 and tips.

here is a great wire change video with warnings

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPL1x16ZCmk

[jimkelly]

I thought my mig was different than most. as my nozzle and tip can off together. but I realized today that the diffuser was coming off with my nozzle. I used my easy out to disassemble into the 3 parts. whew : )

[Jeff Hail]

Hey Jim,

Couldn't help but notice.. looks are you using 100% argon shielding gas?

Jeff

[jimkelly]

for a minute there - i thought - SHIT

but here is the label

Hey Jim,

Couldn't help but notice.. looks are you using 100% argon shielding gas?

Jeff

[Jeff Hail]

for a minute there - i thought - SHIT

but here is the label

Hey Jim,

Couldn't help but notice.. looks are you using 100% argon shielding gas?

Jeff

Perfect on the gas mix. I was not sure by the original post photo and you mentioned argon valve. Carry on.

[76-914]

One big confidence builder for me Jim was when I discovered there was nothing I could F up that I couldn't fix. The only penalty is time lost. Get a $12 HF dig caliper so you know the gage/inch/mm. It's important info for novices like us. It looks like your letting your tip get too far away in some of those pic's. I heard you say that you were having a problem seeing a puddle. Do this; instead of welding 2 pieces, scribe a line and run a bead on a flat piece of steel. It will be much more visible . Run that bead until you get a good fix on it. No pressure to get it right, just keep steady movement and maintain tip distance while watching the puddle. It only takes a few passes this way to "see it". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[speed metal army]

Practicing on slightly heaver stuff is good too.. It gets you used to the fundamentals.Try a variety of joints too. Tees, Laps, etc. As posted before a bit of a weave can also be good.

[jimkelly]

yesterday I did weld on some flat metal. it turns out that not only are mig settings important, but hand travel speed is important too, and distance of TIP to metal as well. as stated above. not changing mig settings, I sometimes get a nice looking smooth melted bead, then the second pass was crap. I think this was do to hand speeds and distances not being kept consistent by me.

a mig may be considered the HOT GLUE GUN of welding, but there is more to it than just hoping for the best (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

practice is crucial, thus having lots of clean metal to practice on is crucial as well.

thanks guys!!!

[jimkelly]

question - what can I expect when I switch to 023 wire/tip, from 030, when welding on my 20 gage scrap metal???

I assume I will need to turn my mig settings up as 023 will carry less heat???

[McMark]

Yup.

Another tip, brace your welding hand on the work piece. Most people walk up and try to weld with no contact between them and the work piece. Their hands and arms are floating. It's like trying to shoot a sniper rifle standing up. If you can't solidly brace against the work piece, at least use your other hand to touch both the torch and the work piece so you get some tactile feedback about when and how far you're moving.

[jimkelly]

nice tip.

I just returned from home depot to get 025 wire and some 025 and 030 tips.

now I know why my machine had a plastic thumb bolt in it - for the smaller narrower 2lb spool. at first I started to rig it with a bunch o washers, but then used the plastic bolt.

got me 2 wire brushes too.

with the naked eye and even with my cheaters on, I can barely see the difference between 025 and 030 - see pic.

I will say - when a bead is going down nice - that steady SIZZLE sounds so sweet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

QUESTION >> do you guys all use grease on your nozzle and tip ????

Yup.

Another tip, brace your welding hand on the work piece. Most people walk up and try to weld with no contact between them and the work piece. Their hands and arms are floating. It's like trying to shoot a sniper rifle standing up. If you can't solidly brace against the work piece, at least use your other hand to touch both the torch and the work piece so you get some tactile feedback about when and how far you're moving.

[scotty b]

I've never used the grease, but supposedly it works. Buy a pair of welders pliers. They are shaped to fit inside the nozzle. A good scraping with those does the trick. it also gives you a wire cutter, and a good inside grip for removing hot or stuck nozzles / tips

you're going to need to cut your settings back a tad bit for the .025, but not much. Once you get comfortable with it, you can turn the heat back up and get a better " melt in " when tacking one spot to another.

[jimkelly]

I can see the grease not being critical - thanks.

I did get a pair of harbor freight plyers but the wire cutting section ain't the best.

[pete]

maybe I just like Asian chicks - but see the last few minutes of this video

link

[i][/i]

Never heard of purging the line. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Can't believe I just watched that WHOLE video.....Buut, definitely learned a few things.