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> Evilbay doings, opinions please
J P Stein
post Dec 10 2004, 09:07 PM
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I bid for an item and was high bidder at 650 for 3-4 days.
3 hours before the bidding closed, another fella out bids my max bid....my 801 to his
811....OK, I loose.

Today I get mail saying the other bidder chumped out and I am now high bidder at 801.
I figure I should be high bidder at 650 and informed the seller of this. Me thinks something is amiss.

Thoughts?
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Aaron Cox
post Dec 10 2004, 09:09 PM
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the guy could have had a friend bid it up....

i agree...something is wrong with that if you were the only two bidders (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)


PS whadja buy?
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Rhodes71/914
post Dec 10 2004, 09:20 PM
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Definitely questionable. I would be doubting the legitemacy of the bid. Although I have to say that sometimes I will wait till the end of the auction to bid. But I follow through as well.
How long after the auction did the seller contact you?
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J P Stein
post Dec 10 2004, 09:28 PM
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The bidding closed Wednesday, he got hold of me today.

A pair of raised spindle struts. His reserve was met at 650.
Guys that really want stuff wait till the last minute to bid (in my experience).

I'll wait to see a response from the seller before passing any kind of judgment on this.
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boxstr
post Dec 10 2004, 09:32 PM
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JP email the seller and tell him you will buy it at your last bid, which was???? I think you may answer your on question here.
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STL914
post Dec 10 2004, 09:33 PM
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Did the other bidder bail out before or after the auction ended?
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J P Stein
post Dec 10 2004, 09:47 PM
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QUOTE(STL914 @ Dec 10 2004, 07:33 PM)
Did the other bidder bail out before or after the auction ended?

The other guy bailed after it was over.

I had an auto bid going with a limit of 801. The current bid( mine) was 650. The other bidder
bid it up, won, then bailed. It don't smell right.
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boxstr
post Dec 10 2004, 09:52 PM
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It may not smell right but your last bid was the high bid before the high bidder bid and then bailed. It sounds like it was a" bid nap" And the bidder decided he wanted out, I would just email the seller and let them know what you are willing to pay,leave it at that and see if it is relisted, then track the bidding and see if you are able to get it for less or near what you want to pay for the item.
It appears that you were ready to pay $801 for the item, well you can still buy it.
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J P Stein
post Dec 10 2004, 10:04 PM
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Your right, Craig. I was ready to pay 801. I just don't like getting jacked around by what appears to be shill bidding.

I think I'll just bail on the whole deal. I went to plan B when I lost the bid. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Porsche Rescue
post Dec 10 2004, 10:10 PM
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Don't quit on it totally. Let the guy know that the $650 still stands. You may get 'em for that. He was willing to sell for that just like you were willing to pay $800. Remind him, that but for the dead beat, you would have had the parts for his reserve price and everbody's happy.
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GWN7
post Dec 10 2004, 10:12 PM
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Or offer him the $650 that the bid was up to before the flake started biding. If he balks tell him to relist them.
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boxstr
post Dec 10 2004, 10:13 PM
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I think I just said that ??????? Oh well, maybe it's the way you say it Jim , or that JP respects his elders more (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Porsche Rescue
post Dec 10 2004, 10:15 PM
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Yea, but car dealers always try to confuse us poor consumers with all that technical stuff.
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krk
post Dec 10 2004, 10:18 PM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Dec 10 2004, 08:07 PM)
I bid for an item and was high bidder at 650 for 3-4 days.
3 hours before the bidding closed, another fella out bids my max bid....my 801 to his
811....OK, I loose.

Today I get mail saying the other bidder chumped out and I am now high bidder at 801.
I figure I should be high bidder at 650 and informed the seller of this. Me thinks something is amiss.

Thoughts?

JP,

You were the second bidder at 801 -- that's where you "lost" out. (I'm not saying you actually lost anything of course -- just auction terms.)

You asked for opinions -- oh oh -- heh -- the pattern you are experiencing is what one sees when bidding early. You really have two choices. 1) put your max bid in early (or at any time) and let the auction process run its course (including shill bidding and so forth) or 2) put your max bid in as late as you have the stomach to do so -- and thus not advertising your interest, and also not presenting yourself as a target for shill bidding.

Neither path guarantees winning the auction or winning it at at "fair price".

But in my book, going early has zero positives. On ebay, if I bid, I bid late.

Back to your question -- Let him know you'd be interested at the price you like -- 650 or whatever -- and push the problem to him.

kim.
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GWN7
post Dec 10 2004, 10:22 PM
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Darn those car salesmen and all their teck talk speak......

age is a state of mind and what I don't mind don't matter.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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boxstr
post Dec 10 2004, 10:27 PM
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Sorry Bruce that was mean't for the other member of the OLD FART RACING TEAM.
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Porsche Rescue
post Dec 10 2004, 10:52 PM
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Somebody's got to look after kids like JP and Craig. No tellin' what they're likely to do without adult supervision.
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GWN7
post Dec 10 2004, 10:59 PM
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It's ok, my kid tells me I'm older than dirt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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soloracer
post Dec 10 2004, 11:00 PM
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I ended up winning two auctions that I ended up bailing on. One was for a set of white gauge faces for my 951. On second review I noticed that the ones on sale only went to 160 mph whereas my 89 speedo went up to 180 mph. The second item was a 928 engine that I bought thinking I would swap it into my 914. This was before I got to this forum and found out how difficult the swap would be. Both times I e-mailed the buyer down from me telling them that I did not need the item. I then e-mailed the seller and offered to pay the difference between my bid and the starting bid of the bidder down from me. This way the bidder down could still take the item at a price they were willing to pay and the seller still got the top price for his item and I was only out the difference for my mistake. In both cases I told the seller that if the buyer down was not willing to take the offer I would go through with the purchase and probably relist the item. In both cases the buyer below took the offer and in the motor purchase the seller told me that it wasn't neccesary to send him the difference. They both left me good feedback too.

So it could be a legitimate thing and not a shill bid. Although I really don't know how you could prove it.
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SirAndy
post Dec 10 2004, 11:54 PM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Dec 10 2004, 07:47 PM)
I had an auto bid going with a limit of 801. The current bid( mine) was 650. The other bidder
bid it up, won, then bailed. It don't smell right.

no.

if your max. was 801 and you had it on *auto* you actually bid 801!!!
then the guy came in and got you with 811 ...

but, because you were on auto, your last actual bid was 801.
how else would the seller know what your max. bid level was?

all he sees is your last bid in the bidding history for 801 ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy
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