New chasis - Broad overview to Swap Everything from Parts Car |
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New chasis - Broad overview to Swap Everything from Parts Car |
ky914 |
Sep 1 2013, 07:20 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 28 Joined: 31-August 13 From: Lexington, KY Member No.: 16,328 Region Association: None |
New member but long time lurker. I have been given a 1973 914 with a 1.7 engine. Unfortunately, it is too far gone due to rust. I know the engine and trans were good when it was last driven over 5 years ago. It has been converted to dual Weber 40's. It hasn't been driven more than 50 miles in the last 20+ years.
For the last 3 years I have been looking for a chassis that is local, cheap, and rust free. I knew this was impossible. However, it looks like I just found what I was looking for. I am buying an abandoned project and getting the 74 chassis. The floor pans have already been replaced. Hell hole looks ok from the pics. Long's are said to be solid with some pitting. My fingers are crossed it is as good as it looks. Regardless, the price was right. I will be picking it up next Sunday and will post pics when they are available. I know a ground up restoration is huge, expensive and potentially cause for divorce. Can some of the experienced people on here give me a broad overview of the reasonable steps to transfer everything from my parts car to the new chassis? I assume I need to get the all of the body panels prepped and ready so I can paint before putting on all of the other parts. After it is painted and glass is reinstalled, I assume I will need to deal with getting the suspension and brakes in shape. After that, engine and transmission, etc... Let me know what you think the proper broad steps are that need to be done. I am assuming the car doesn't need additional work to repair rust damage. What are the big items I have to buy? Do you think I need a complete rubber kit? What things are necessary to buy? What things should be bought and why? Thanks, Michael |
jimkelly |
Sep 12 2013, 11:27 AM
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#2
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Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
aside from the home made rear trunk pan - the hell hole might be an issue.
clearly some of the rust you are showing is non structural. this is the thread I like to scare everyone with : ) http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748 Attached thumbnail(s) |
marksteinhilber |
Jan 17 2018, 02:32 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 229 Joined: 18-October 12 From: Foothill Ranch, CA 92610 Member No.: 15,057 Region Association: Southern California |
aside from the home made rear trunk pan - the hell hole might be an issue. clearly some of the rust you are showing is non structural. this is the thread I like to scare everyone with : ) http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748 Swiss Cheese Alert! This is alarming. You need to fix the Longitudinal and other structure before putting on the lipstick. It's way easier now and should be done if you're keeping the car for the long haul. If you don't do it, this rust continues to eat from the inside out. Car will not re-sell at the price you would like. It should be addressed with further exploration into the longitudinals, appropriate insert repairs, and possibly the extra longitudinal overlay sold by several vendors to get more strength than original. Right now, car might have some flex when you stand on the door sill. Doors may rub when closing at the top and gaps may be closing at the top of the door near the handle. Don't expect that the hell hole was properly addressed.... |
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