New chasis - Broad overview to Swap Everything from Parts Car Options

[ky914]

New member but long time lurker. I have been given a 1973 914 with a 1.7 engine. Unfortunately, it is too far gone due to rust. I know the engine and trans were good when it was last driven over 5 years ago. It has been converted to dual Weber 40's. It hasn't been driven more than 50 miles in the last 20+ years.

For the last 3 years I have been looking for a chassis that is local, cheap, and rust free. I knew this was impossible. However, it looks like I just found what I was looking for. I am buying an abandoned project and getting the 74 chassis. The floor pans have already been replaced. Hell hole looks ok from the pics. Long's are said to be solid with some pitting. My fingers are crossed it is as good as it looks. Regardless, the price was right. I will be picking it up next Sunday and will post pics when they are available.

I know a ground up restoration is huge, expensive and potentially cause for divorce. Can some of the experienced people on here give me a broad overview of the reasonable steps to transfer everything from my parts car to the new chassis?

I assume I need to get the all of the body panels prepped and ready so I can paint before putting on all of the other parts. After it is painted and glass is reinstalled, I assume I will need to deal with getting the suspension and brakes in shape. After that, engine and transmission, etc...

Let me know what you think the proper broad steps are that need to be done. I am assuming the car doesn't need additional work to repair rust damage. What are the big items I have to buy? Do you think I need a complete rubber kit?

What things are necessary to buy?
What things should be bought and why?

Thanks,

Michael

[bulitt]

Early 73 or Late?
Harnesses in both cars?
Sway bars?
You are in luck as the doors and glass are direct transfers (73 was a change over yr, hopefully window lifts are scissor style on both cars).
Make sure you are very gentle with the rubber seals as they are expensive to replace.
The targa roof and latches should transfer over.
Fuel tanks, expansion tanks should transfer over (not sure on the expansion/EPA stuff), wipers should be same. Determine if you have intermittants= different wiring.
Steering columns same, linkage orientation should be the same, not sure. You can put the entire rack,linkage,column, and wheel on from one car to the other.
Sideshifters in both.
Figure out which electrics you are going to use as the harnesses/connections are different from yr to yr. So probably be easier to use all the 73 stuff with the 73 harness, or all the 74 stuff with the 74 harness but some stuff will mix. DONT cut anything on the harnesses. They can be removed with patience. When you pull wires off a component (gauge as an example) wrap them all together with some electrical tape so you have a bundle for that component. Get a marker and write wire colors on each connection, or tag each connection, or make a drawing, document which wire goes where on each component- trust me, please, this will save you big headaches. Did I mention - DONT cut anything on the harnesses! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Get yourself an enlarged electrical schematic off Ebay or Amazon.
Be gentle removing the windshield they crack easily.
Put every nut and bolt in a baggie and label it.
Park the tubs next to each other and transfer the parts one component at a time, easier than removing everything for re-install at a later date. Easier than trying to remember how each part goes on.
Test components before re-installing. Put twelve volts to the fresh air blower motor so you know its good prior to reinstalling.
Threads on every subject in this site. Learning to use the search engine will help you immensely.

More from others in the know.

[jimkelly]

you are bound to end up with some messed up hard brake lines.

you should probably replace fuel lines from nylon to stainless.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=110158

rubber brake lines should probably be replaced.
"http://www.pmbperformance.com/914brake.html

oem steering doughnut is probably wasted.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/otherproducts.htm

suspension bits probably are not excellent, but you can do a bit at a time.
all new suspension and rebuild brake parts will run about $2500
if you cant resto entire car - at least resto brakes and suspension - as best you can

do you have a front sway bar - may want one.

[Spoke]

Nothing to add except (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Jeffs9146]

Lennies914 and I did this on his car swapping from a 74 yellow to a chassis 75 black!

It took about 6 months to prep, paint, refirbish suspension & brakes, glass, dash and swap out all of the parts from the wrecked car! We did it all in his garage including the paint!

The car won COM Aug, Sept 2012!

There was alot of time put into it over the 6 months but it was worth every minute that we spent preping the new chassis and refurbishing the parts before starting the assembly! Don't put something off on the chassis thinking "I will get to that later"! Just get it done up front and take your time!

Here is a photo of Lennies914's car!

[ky914]

Here is what I am picking up:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055385.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055385.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055386.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055386.4.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055386.5.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055386.6.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055386.7.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1378055386.8.jpg)

[SirAndy]

Here is what I am picking up:

That car had some major surgery done to it. Make sure it was done well and the car is square and didn't twist while being welded on.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[ky914]

That car had some major surgery done to it. Make sure it was done well and the car is square and didn't twist while being welded on.

That was my major concern. Seller stated that the Long's haven't been touched at this point and are good - although there is some pitting. Anything I can do to make sure it is square when I pick it up? Missing the doors so I can't tell from the door gaps.

[SirAndy]

Seller stated that the Long's haven't been touched at this point and are good

I've never seen a car where the complete floor pan had to be replaced but the longs were solid.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)


As for making sure the car is straight, this might be of help:

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

[rick 918-S]

Seller stated that the Long's haven't been touched at this point and are good

I've never seen a car where the complete floor pan had to be replaced but the longs were solid.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)


As for making sure the car is straight, this might be of help:

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Do your home work and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[ky914]

I picked up the car this weekend. After some measurements, it appears to be square. There are many little areas/jobs to be welded, but nothing that is horrible from a structural perspective. Some swiss cheese issues with the longs and some cosmetic updates needed, but I feel it is well worth it for the $250 price.

[Java2570]

For $250 you got a great deal! Keep posting photos of the swap.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ky914]

We will see if it was a good buy or not over time. Here is a link to 100 pics of the car I just took. Plenty of little swiss cheese holes.

Album Link:

http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/kyporsch.../library/74_914

[ky914]

I would like some comments on the condition of my tub. I picked a few of the pics from the album. Hopefully it will be representative. What I am wondering is:

Opinions on the condition of the Longs: Average / Below Average / Must be fixed ASAP. I am not going for a concours restoration, but I don't want to put a lot of work into something that will be worthless in 5 years either.

Here is a pic of the worst part of the longs:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1379005679.1.jpg)

Hell Hole has had some repair already. What attention do I need to do here before I start a swap from my parts car?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1379005679.2.jpg)

Some bad spots on the door sills:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1379005679.3.jpg)

Some more questionable metal:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1227.photobucket.com-16328-1379005679.4.jpg)


Is this tub in need of a ton more work? What are your suggestions? Any advice from the experts on this board would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Michael

[jimkelly]

aside from the home made rear trunk pan - the hell hole might be an issue.

clearly some of the rust you are showing is non structural.

this is the thread I like to scare everyone with : )

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

[VaccaRabite]

Just go buy a mig welder and an angle grinder tomorrow.
If you don't know how to weld yet, you will before you start swapping stuff on to the car.

First things first. BRACE YOUR DOORS! You are going to need to cut into your longs a little to clear the rust that Jim has pointed out. If you don't brace your doors, you will twist that new chassis. Lots of threads on door braces. Not bracing the doors is one of the biggest mistakes that noobs make when restoring these cars.

Good luck, we will help you along the way.
Zach

[ky914]

If I start cutting out everything that looks a little like swiss cheese, I will likely be replacing a huge percentage of the metal. I see rust evidence a little at the top of the windshield, in the trays under the headlights, in the fresh air vents behind the doors, etc... etc... etc... There has to be a point where it is ok to grind out the rust with a wire wheel, hit with metal ready or ospho to keep more rust from coming back and move on without cutting out chunks of metal.

I think you only learn where that line is from experience. Seems like the answer I am getting from the experienced people on this forum is you should always cut out the rust and put in new metal. If that is the case, my tub may be too far gone already and I am better off to resume looking for a better candidate.

[boogie_man]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Do not like that rear floor pan at all but the good thing is you have access to all the bad areas. Go restoration design's web site to map out what you need like the battery tray kit and rear truck floor pan some of the smaller rust issues can be patched. If you change the rear trunk floor pan, you can also repair that rear body
panel to get it straight. You also get the jack mounts for the rockers where i've seen
people completly replace then or section just the lower half. As these guys said, brace and secure that car to keep it square and straight. Take your time and it will
reward you with a nice long lasting ride.


Scott

[Chris Pincetich]

welcome to the madness (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[ky914]

I found some time over Thanksgiving to visit my donor car and take a lot of pictures. I put an album on photobucket. If anyone is bored I would appreciate any feedback or comments. The album has 162 pics.

73 914 Donor Car