 Welding on a fender - bodywork Q, McMark......and body gurus |
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| Aaron Cox |
 Dec 12 2004, 09:14 PM
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#1
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Professional Lawn Dart  Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California  |
i need to pull a mcmark and section on a new fender... it was curled in heavil at the bottom by the door.... and a low spot above the wheel arch. PO bondo'd crap out of it.... i want to cut it off and weld on a new section....
urgerboy.....lend me your brain |
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Replies(20 - 32)
| balljoint |
Dec 13 2004, 08:52 AM
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#21
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,000 Joined: 6-April 04 Member No.: 1,897 Region Association: None |
If you can do a little practice with the trimmed pieces from your new fender and the cutout old fender then you are working on exactly the same thicknesses for the final welds. Lots of good advice already. Good Luck.
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| skline |
Dec 13 2004, 11:25 AM
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#22
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Born to Drive Group: Members Posts: 7,910 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Costa Mesa, CA Member No.: 17 Region Association: Southern California |
When he gets here, I will take a look at the fender and see how bad it really is. I agree that it would be better to fix what he has than to try to weld on a whole new fender. I have all the stuff here to pull out just about anything. Aaron, if you are out there, I am leaving now to take the truck in and should be back around 10:30 or so. Call me.
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| curtis |
Dec 13 2004, 11:37 AM
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#23
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Member Group: Members Posts: 192 Joined: 14-June 04 From: Redlands,CA. Member No.: 2,206 |
QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Dec 12 2004, 09:37 PM) thanks shawn... i got a primo fender already cut off a car. just need to cut and paste (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) shawn, when you leaving for work again? Im leaving tommorow at 4:30 pm give me a holler on the cell and maybe I could come down and give you guys some emotional support with.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/givemebeer.gif) and then we can... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 13 2004, 07:21 PM
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#24
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains  |
I'm not getting this...
Why wouldn't you "pick" the fender off at the original spot welds? Then do the same with the new fender and replace it the way the factory would? I don't understand the trimming and line scribbing stuff. A fender should be "picked" unless you're only replacing a portion. Picture included Attached image(s) 
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| Aaron Cox |
Dec 13 2004, 07:57 PM
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#25
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
the piece o have doesnt have the weatherstripping channel in thr fronnt trunk. also...isnt it IMPOSSIBLE to weld the cowl area back in?
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| Powerman |
Dec 13 2004, 08:48 PM
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#26
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 37 Joined: 24-November 03 From: Stafford, VA Member No.: 1,384 |
For the Mig wire, try some body wire that's easier to grind. Unibody X2 by Uniweld, or ez-ee grind by ESAB.
Stuff is ten times easier to clean up. |
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 14 2004, 11:37 AM
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#27
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE the piece o have doesnt have the weatherstripping channel in thr fronnt trunk. also...isnt it IMPOSSIBLE to weld the cowl area back in? You should get one that does. Brad has plenty. I found one off the board for $80.00. To me, it's worth the price to do it right. Nope... I've just witnessed two, professionally done, in the last 4 months. Not impossible AT ALL. One passengers side and one drivers side. Here's a shot of one area that needed a cowl repaired and a new fender was put on. You can see the welds in the weatherstripping groove. Aaron, do what you need to do. I've butt welded flares on which is nearly a fender replacement done as mentioned above but, if I were to replace an entire fender "I" would weld it along the factory seams. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) Attached image(s) 
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| Aaron Cox |
Dec 14 2004, 12:23 PM
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#28
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Dec 14 2004, 10:37 AM) Aaron, do what you need to do. I've butt welded flares on which is nearly a fender replacement done as mentioned above but, if I were to replace an entire fender "I" would weld it along the factory seams. :beer1: Eric. that does look alot better and easier and... ill work on procuring a replacement piece off of a solid car. just drill out the spotwelds? ALSO! are all cars spotwelded in the exact same place? (as in assembled on a jig....?) so i could match up spotweld holes? i bet it will be apparent when i tear off the fender |
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 14 2004, 01:02 PM
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#29
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE just drill out the spotwelds? ALSO! are all cars spotwelded in the exact same place? (as in assembled on a jig....?) so i could match up spotweld holes? i bet it will be apparent when i tear off the fender (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) If'n it were that easy, yeah, just drill them out. My guess is it will take a day per piece (or, a 1/2 day but you'll be so sick of drilling welds that you'll just drink the rest of the day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) ) No they're not all welded in the same place. You'll want to drill or grind the spots off ginding through the layer of metal you "don't" intend to keep. Meaning: if you look at the first picture I posted of the fender off the car, you'll notice that there are no holes drilled "through" that metal. Now, the replacement piece can have the holes where the spot remover drill went through it or you can drill them yourself. You will use those holes to "rosette" weld the piece on to the chassis. My body-guy uses the side of a small grinder wheel to go through the first layer of metal only. It's a talent but it can make short work of the spots when you get in the rhythm. He then performs the same procedure on the "backside" of the new piece to "pick" it off the welded ares. He then drills rosette holes where he wants the welds to go. Make sense? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
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| Aaron Cox |
Dec 14 2004, 01:10 PM
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#30
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
just rosete weld the new fenders through the holes you drilled the old welds out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) right?
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 14 2004, 01:15 PM
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#31
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Basically... but leave the base metal w/o holes so you have a foundation for the rosette.
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| Aaron Cox |
Dec 14 2004, 01:17 PM
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#32
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Dec 14 2004, 12:15 PM) Basically... but leave the base metal w/o holes so you have a foundation for the rosette. roger that. now, how hard is it to set doorgaps and alignment before welding? clamp in place ...adjust and weld? |
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 14 2004, 01:21 PM
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#33
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE clamp in place ...adjust and weld? Yup... but again, if'n it was that easy. There is a talent to it. The entire right side of my car was replaces with the exception of the door. The gaps are better than new. All I can say is measure, measure, measure and work slow. And PRACTICE with a couple pieces of scrap metal to get the wire feed rate and power "just right". You want penetration but not too much heat -or- you'll warp the fender right off the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
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