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> Oil leak, Valve guide??
euro911
post Sep 27 2013, 01:37 AM
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I would go through both heads. It will help to assure uniform compression.

If you do have a ring issue, the hard part is already done - the engine is out and the heads off.

Inspect the cylinders. Might want to re-ring it too?
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SLITS
post Sep 27 2013, 06:28 AM
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Most engines that use guides, the guide for the valve hangs into the port. The only time I have ever seen a guide cut flush with the roof of the port was on a racing engine that was torn down after each race anyway. Others I have seen may cut the guide a bit shorter and then taper it in the direction of flow. The two above methods were to achieve maximum flow through the port.

It appears that one has moved. Yes the markings on the valve stem are from the valve moving in and out which is normal to me. The only way to tell is to remove the springs and retainers. Once that is done you will be able to see how much of the guide is sticking above the valve guide boss or if you have means of depressing the valve you might see the guide magically appear in the port.

I had an engine that the guide seized on the valve stem and pulled it. Smoked like hell and still ran though. It happened just driving around in a parking lot at low RPMs.

All in all, it appears to be a head issue. If you had a broken ring on a piston you would see grooving in the cylinder wall. On the way to Wickenburg for Route 66, this happened to me.

And whatever brand of fuel you are using is leaving deposits. Years ago I used Smell gas until I tore and engine down. Deposits are from the additive package.
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bulitt
post Sep 27 2013, 06:45 AM
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Slits has it. The guide has moved in the head. Either loose or a crack in the head.

As he said the guides normally protrude into the port. Old mass produced engine guides are simple tubes, usually cast iron. Your heads have been reworked to improve flow and have had tapered guides installed. If not cracked they can just install an oversize guide and new seal, and figure out why this one came loose.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.goodson.com-13632-1380287223.1.png)

Looks like the intake ports have had some mild porting done on them.
If you end up with a replacement head you will need the same work done
on the new one or it could have different flow rates then the other.
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rhodyguy
post Sep 27 2013, 07:14 AM
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remove, straighten, and 'pretty up' the engine tin.
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lsintampa
post Sep 27 2013, 10:26 AM
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IDK,

If the valve guide were leaking, it would smoke sure, but if the headers are on with a good seal, there shouldn't be oil on the outside.

See if you can move the valve guide, one on mine came loose and I could actually move the thing with my finger.

Good luck!
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stugray
post Sep 27 2013, 11:04 AM
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QUOTE
there shouldn't be oil on the outside.


If the valve guide is loose and leaking, that will cause higher than normal crankcase pressure as the exhaust gases blow by the guide into the head.
Since he has a head vent directly over where we see the oil leaking down the header stub, I think that is the source of the oil on the outside of the stub.
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914_teener
post Sep 27 2013, 12:04 PM
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I am with Mark......, Elliot....

I'd do both heads. Sounds and looks like the guides from your posts.


And for those that don't know him....He's a nice guy and is pretty meticulous with his car. He drives it more that anyone I know who owns a 914
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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 27 2013, 12:18 PM
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QUOTE(914_teener @ Sep 27 2013, 11:04 AM) *

I am with Mark......, Elliot....

I'd do both heads. Sounds and looks like the guides from your posts.


And for those that don't know him....He's a nice guy and is pretty meticulous with his car. He drives it more that anyone I know who owns a 914

I agree with Mark as well. Both heads coming off. I know Mark is a nice guy and is pretty meticulous with his car but I didn't think he drives it much because I'm not sure if he ever had a 914 that ran much. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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SLITS
post Sep 27 2013, 01:31 PM
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You two should get a room.

Can I pick on you now about the RTV under the head washers?

and

The "T" in the brake line? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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r_towle
post Sep 27 2013, 02:01 PM
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It looks like it moved.
I would re-ring it, but that is just me...you are in there, and its simple to do at this point...

Otherwise, do both heads.
Suck that it happened.

They are press fit in there then honed out.
I believe the metallurgy has changed quite a bit and the new guide have a stronger blend of the alloy so they wont wear out as fast.

If you put them in correctly, which seems to be your issue.

BTW, they were never cast iron...
If those are stock heads, its time to do it.
If those were previously done by a machine shop 30k miles ago, you might want to consider bringing your business elsewhere for this time around.



Rich
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76-914
post Sep 27 2013, 04:57 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Damn Ron, you gonna let that "relay comment" slide. I remember when you were good for a couple of paragraphs on that one. Elyut, if you're a CSOB pm me. I've got a set of engine rubber seals 1 yr old, I won't be needing.
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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 27 2013, 07:02 PM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Sep 27 2013, 12:31 PM) *

You two should get a room.

Can I pick on you now about the RTV under the head washers?

and

The "T" in the brake line? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

You can pick on me about the RTV under the head washers because they were done by FAT Performance. I put the "T" in the brake line. What the hell is wrong with that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) You can pick on me any time because I know how much you love me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Besides, I think you might know a little more about this car than I do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)
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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 27 2013, 07:03 PM
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Mid-rise lift makes a good work bench.


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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 27 2013, 07:05 PM
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I hope I remember how all this shit goes back together? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 27 2013, 07:07 PM
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Both the rocker arm assemblies are totally clean. I thought there would be more gunk in there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) You know, besides all that orange shit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)


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SLITS
post Sep 27 2013, 08:54 PM
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When you pull the rocker assemblies get 8 each 5/16 bolts about 3" long. As you start to pull the rocker assemblies off the studs, push the bolts thru the stud holes. This will keep the rocker assemblies assembled and you merely slide the assemblies over the studs which will push the bolts out. Saves a bunch of time reassembling the rocker assemblies if you let them fall apart.

Before you pull the heads make sure you get the cheese head screws out of the block that holds the warm air guide under the cylinders. Heads won't come off otherwise.

but I know you know all of this.
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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 27 2013, 11:50 PM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Sep 27 2013, 07:54 PM) *

When you pull the rocker assemblies get 8 each 5/16 bolts about 3" long. As you start to pull the rocker assemblies off the studs, push the bolts thru the stud holes. This will keep the rocker assemblies assembled and you merely slide the assemblies over the studs which will push the bolts out. Saves a bunch of time reassembling the rocker assemblies if you let them fall apart.

Before you pull the heads make sure you get the cheese head screws out of the block that holds the warm air guide under the cylinders. Heads won't come off otherwise.

but I know you know all of this.

Thanks Ron. I haven't done this in about 8 years. Considering the fact that I can't remember what I had for lunch today, your advice comes at the right time.
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Eric_Shea
post Sep 28 2013, 12:02 AM
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QUOTE
So now what else should I do "while I'm in there"?


Paint the rest of it yellow...
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euro911
post Sep 28 2013, 02:50 AM
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I hope you tagged your push rods, and if you pull(ed) the lifters, you tag(ged) them as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ... so they go back in where they originally came from (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)


I'm pretty sure that Rob was referring to YOU about driving your 914 more than anyone else he knows. There's a lot of folks that have never seen me drive one, and probably think I only own a couple of Toyota trucks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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SLITS
post Sep 28 2013, 08:52 AM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 28 2013, 01:50 AM) *

I hope you tagged your push rods, and if you pull(ed) the lifters, you tag(ged) them as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ... so they go back in where they originally came from (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)


I'm pretty sure that Rob was referring to YOU about driving your 914 more than anyone else he knows. There's a lot of folks that have never seen me drive one, and probably think I only own a couple of Toyota trucks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


I saw you drive one once ... poorly, but you drove it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

And Elleyot, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif) even though you're a Vegan (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

"My candle burns at both ends;
It will not last the night;
But ah, my foes, and oh, my friends—
It gives a lovely light.
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