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> Oil leak, Valve guide??
Eric_Shea
post Sep 28 2013, 09:46 AM
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euro911
post Sep 28 2013, 09:59 AM
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NORD
post Sep 28 2013, 11:30 AM
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Elliot; Make sure when you disasemble that you use a vac to get all that silicone out of that engine. Mine was sealed like that when I broke it down and as careful as I was to get it all, The first oil change after 20 minutes of running there was some silicone at the strainer. I'm sure it was from the pushrod tubes that were sealed like yours at the block.

Thinking about it, my motor only had 39,000 when it failed. Maybe the silicone shortens the motor life. It did not drip any oil though. Get it running. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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SLITS
post Sep 28 2013, 09:25 PM
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That is the problem with using RTV in areas where shards can break off and get into the oil. Being semi soft, they can pass thru the strainer and potentially plug an oil feed to a bearing.

If you're going to use it, apply tighten what ever and wipe clean what squeezes out when installing whatever and use a very small amount to begin with.

I used to use toilet paper to clean bearings prior to install because it doesn't leave lint. Lost an engine due to a small piece of asswipe plugging a rod bearing feed.
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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 30 2013, 05:00 PM
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I finally got the head off. These are cylinders two and one respectively. Does it look like cyl. two has been burning some Mobil 1? Number one is much better although it shows it's been running a little rich maybe? I really don't have the experience to tell. I'm pretty sure about number two though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)


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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 30 2013, 05:02 PM
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The cylinder walls look pretty good to me. I can't see any scoring. Both one and two look great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 30 2013, 05:05 PM
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I pulled out one of the ceramic valve lifters. After 25,000 miles they look just like they did when I installed them about 8 years ago. Thanks Clayton, (where ever you are).


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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 30 2013, 05:10 PM
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I'll be pulling the other head off soon and figure out where to take them to be worked on. I still can't see how oil got into the combustion chamber although I think the valve guides are a good bet to this amateur. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I don't have a spring compressor to remove the valves. I'll let someone else do that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) While the heads are being done, I guess about a case of carb. cleaner might get a lot of the gunk off. Maybe get some stuff powder coated so it looks clean at least for awhile. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)


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StratPlayer
post Sep 30 2013, 06:59 PM
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Elliot are those 94 or 96mm pistons?
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SLITS
post Sep 30 2013, 08:01 PM
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Not much wear .... you can still see the cross hatching on the cylinder walls. Looks good to go to me.
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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 30 2013, 09:20 PM
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QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Sep 30 2013, 05:59 PM) *

Elliot are those 94 or 96mm pistons?

96 pistons and 76 crank.
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r_towle
post Sep 30 2013, 09:23 PM
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Can you see the valve guide on the vale in question from the top?
Inside the spring?
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Elliot Cannon
post Sep 30 2013, 09:25 PM
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It has dual springs and I can't see anything.
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72hardtop
post Nov 11 2013, 02:33 PM
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Whoever used RTV needs to be tarred and feathered in public. If you use anything on the push-rod tubes only use 'Thread sealant'. It does not cure like RTV and won't plug anything up.

As for the case/cylinder mating surfaces Curil K2
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stugray
post Nov 12 2013, 12:28 AM
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72hardtop
post Nov 12 2013, 01:41 AM
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What P/C set was used? Any idea?

The following should suite you well:

http://aapistons.com/shop/vw-piston-and-cy...914-type-4.html
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