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> Help! Rebuilt Carbs, Now Engine Car Shudders at 4k RPM
ThePaintedMan
post Nov 17 2013, 07:00 PM
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That's a very common problem with Webers. Those ears for the float pivot pin are very fragile. I bet you could take the top to a radiator shop though and have them zap it real quick to weld the broken piece back on - it's aluminum.

Or you can get on the phone with Pierce Manifolds in California and they'll probably have a 44 top that they'll sell you fairly cheap.
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rhodyguy
post Nov 17 2013, 07:01 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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is this the set you were sent to replace the first ones? 44 bodies yes? this really sucks mike. you could try ACE too. common? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

k
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euro911
post Nov 17 2013, 07:13 PM
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On Webers, the tabs that the float pivot rod slides into is cast in the carb top.

This shows the missing portion of the tab

Attached Image
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'70PVW914
post Nov 17 2013, 07:50 PM
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Thats the spot....theres also this, i posted to the classifieds post as well.


...some nasty looking sheering of metal where the throttle linkages attach....are these carbs still usable, or should I stop dumping time and money into them?

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Dr Evil
post Nov 17 2013, 07:58 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Nov 17 2013, 08:13 PM) *

On Webers, the tabs that the float pivot rod slides into is cast in the carb top.

This shows the missing portion of the tab

Attached Image

Doh, I looked right past that to what looked like a missing tab on the float. I see. Yes, now all the other recommendations make sense. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Weld it, not a prob.
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ChrisFoley
post Nov 18 2013, 05:59 AM
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The broken leg is a bit too delicate to weld back on, but a good aluminum welder can build up the remaining leg so a fresh hole can be drilled.
I wouldn't bother trying to reproduce the split though.
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'70PVW914
post Nov 19 2013, 07:02 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Nov 18 2013, 04:59 AM) *

The broken leg is a bit too delicate to weld back on, but a good aluminum welder can build up the remaining leg so a fresh hole can be drilled.
I wouldn't bother trying to reproduce the split though.



Thanks man, this sounds like the most viable option! Gonna take it to get welded tomorrow....shouldn't be but a few sheckles i'd imagine.

After that I'm all set with new gaskets to do the valve adjustment, clean out my heater boxes, the carbs and the float adjustment, then sync and tune! Goal is to have her purring in my driveway by this sunday! Looks like I may even get a day of skiing in before then! Living in Colorado totally sucks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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brant
post Nov 19 2013, 07:11 PM
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be careful where you take that for welding

its a delicate part and takes a little skill or experience.
the muffler shop on the corner is not a good idea
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ChrisFoley
post Nov 19 2013, 07:44 PM
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QUOTE(brant @ Nov 19 2013, 08:11 PM) *

be careful where you take that for welding

its a delicate part and takes a little skill or experience.
the muffler shop on the corner is not a good idea

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Whoever does that really needs to already have experience doing buildup on tiny aluminum objects.
Its so easy to overheat that little thing and melt it into oblivion.
It may cost up to half an hour of labor.
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brant
post Nov 19 2013, 08:06 PM
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There is a certified aluminum welder in longmont...
the guy (as mentioned previously) has helicopter certification
he is absolutely amazing....

I've had him weld pot metal carb bowls previously.
sure its 5-10 bucks higher... but not screwing around and done right
cheap compaired to a new set of carbs!

b
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stugray
post Nov 19 2013, 08:43 PM
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Dont know if blurry pics help but this is a view of your problem:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1384915397.1.jpg)
Wish I had a pic of the float on to show how much room you have to work with.

More pics of carb rebuild in that folder.

http://s366.photobucket.com/user/stuartjgr...914_build_carbs
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stugray
post Nov 22 2013, 03:36 PM
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Any luck?

Something I forgot to mention. I stumbled across my aluminum solder rods last night.

You could build up that area with Aluminum solder and then redrill that hole.
If it doesnt work, that just means you couldnt get the solder to stick, so no harm done.

It would be nice to try on something other than the real part.
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somd914
post Nov 23 2013, 10:53 AM
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Not sure if you've been able to get your float leg repaired yet, but I went through the exact same break. My son has a friend who welds as a hobby - did a nice job.

All I asked for was a weld, I'd grind and drill. He did it all including a media blast, and dropped it off at the house for no charge - guess there is hope for the younger generation!

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'70PVW914
post Nov 23 2013, 10:10 PM
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Hey folks,

Got the repair done to the pivot leg and it looks great....
Attached Image
not as great as yours somd914...but functionally, it will work just fine and is a very strong weld! Had a friend of a friend who makes bicycles and did it for a 6-pack!

Have the new accelerator pumps on and floats adjusted! Just waiting for the warmth of tomorrow to properly seal up the valve cases after completing adjustment (yes!), do an oil change, put on the carbs and fire her up!

Hoping for the best!
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euro911
post Nov 23 2013, 10:33 PM
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Very good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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