Best way to deal with surface rust in the center tunnel? |
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Best way to deal with surface rust in the center tunnel? |
falcor75 |
Nov 15 2013, 10:19 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,579 Joined: 22-November 12 From: Sweden Member No.: 15,176 Region Association: Scandinavia |
I have my '74 2.0 down to basically a bare shell (suspension is still in place) and I'm trying to figure out how to deal with the surface rust in the center tunnel.
A. Drill out all the spotwelds in the profile that holds the seat height adjusters and the tunnel itself and do it properly. Downside is that the flanges of the parts will be a bit mangled and might be hard to put back in place + very time consumning. B. Cut open sections (on the top of) of both the profile and the tunnel, to get access and do the best job possible. C. Using existing holes to scrape off lose rust and use a flexible arm with a rotating wire brush to get as much as possible out and then use long paint brushes to coat the entire tunnel with rust stopper. D. Other suggestions? I will run both fuel and brake lines under the car in the future and there is no rot to speak of, only surface rust + 40 years of dust..... |
URY914 |
Nov 15 2013, 10:25 AM
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#2
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 120,693 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
If it is only surface rust, I'd go with plan C.
The others are way too much work. |
puffinator |
Nov 15 2013, 10:50 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 193 Joined: 6-August 13 From: Annapolis, MD Member No.: 16,218 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
If it is only surface rust, I'd go with plan C. The others are way too much work. Eastwood sells a paint product for inside painting of frame rails. I have used it and I think it works great. http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coa...ray-nozzle.html |
gunny |
Nov 15 2013, 11:05 AM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 205 Joined: 17-October 12 From: Madison Al Member No.: 15,051 Region Association: South East States |
If it is only surface rust, I'd go with plan C. The others are way too much work. Eastwood sells a paint product for inside painting of frame rails. I have used it and I think it works great. http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coa...ray-nozzle.html Beat me to it. I have used in my tunnel. I had verylittle surface rust which I was able to scrape and vacuum out then I applied the coating from front to rear. The hose works great. I used 2 cans to coat but 1 may have done it. |
bulitt |
Nov 15 2013, 11:34 AM
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#5
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Achtzylinder Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 2-October 11 Member No.: 13,632 Region Association: South East States |
If it is only surface rust, I'd go with plan C. The others are way too much work. Eastwood sells a paint product for inside painting of frame rails. I have used it and I think it works great. http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coa...ray-nozzle.html I agree! Gets everywhere. Runs out of every hole so tape off where you don't want it to end up! |
boxsterfan |
Nov 15 2013, 12:49 PM
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#6
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914's are kewl Group: Members Posts: 1,776 Joined: 6-June 03 From: San Ramon, CA Member No.: 791 Region Association: Northern California |
Nice product. I suspect people here using that inside the longs also? If so, how's it holding up (assuming you have ever had a chance to look inside again)?
Of course, painting inside the longs without removing that "muffler" looking thingy which would require cutting and welding and which is probably rotted out, may or may not be a good idea. |
jimkelly |
Nov 15 2013, 01:18 PM
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#7
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Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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gothspeed |
Nov 16 2013, 08:37 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,539 Joined: 3-February 09 From: SoCal Member No.: 10,019 Region Association: None |
Yes I used quite a few of those Eastwood Internal Frame paint/sealer/rust treatment cans ..... it worked very well ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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rick 918-S |
Nov 16 2013, 10:11 PM
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#9
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,462 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
I've used the Eastwood internal spray in the support structure of the hood and rear deck lids. I just did the one for Sandy's car. I could see surface rust when I pried up the edge and looked between the lid and the reinforcement. I tapped on the structure and the stuff was flaking off. I used a putty knife, blow gun, Rustmort, them masked off all the edges to avoid seepage onto the lid and sprayed the Eastwood in all the openings and down all the channels. The product was thin enough to weep out through the folded flanges. As it dries it seems to expand slightly. The bond seems tight and uniform. I was very happy with the results. Once I was finished I used urethane seam sealer around all the edges of the inner structure then painted the lid. Very nice smooth finish.
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