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> Another 914 goes under the knife, UPDATE: IT'S ALIVE....FINALLY
vintage914racer
post Jan 22 2014, 05:59 PM
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The rust removal continues. Rick is working away to get all the bad metal out in prep for new pieces.

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vintage914racer
post Jan 22 2014, 06:04 PM
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While Rick has been working on the body, I've been tearing the engine apart. I will be replacing the valve cover gaskets, replacing the oil cooler seals, thermostat seals and chain housing gaskets.

When I went to adjust the valves earlier this week I found that a previous mechanic put the distributor in 180 degrees off and then adjusted the wire locations to compensate. I don't know why he didn't just flip the distributor, but I've learned this happens more than you might expect.

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rick 918-S
post Jan 22 2014, 07:53 PM
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Nice work Ben. I'm just closing up the hell hole tonight. I have the inner reinforcement all rebuilt. The bottom of the rail is finished. Here's the bottom of the rail and the inside shot showing the reinforcement and ribs repaired. This is all double walled. I used the spot welder on the flange like the factory.


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bigkensteele
post Jan 22 2014, 09:23 PM
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Incredible work, Rick!
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rick 918-S
post Jan 22 2014, 11:43 PM
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Top of the rail closed in. There is an inner panel under the outer skin of the hell hole that had to go in first.


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Socalandy
post Jan 23 2014, 11:11 AM
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All the usual rust spots (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) and another cool thread to watch. If Ricks Saucer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/alien.gif) wasn't on jackstands I could have used his skills on my project, great work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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doug_b_928
post Jan 23 2014, 09:15 PM
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Looks great, Rick! What kind of primer did you use on the inside of the long in the pics above: epoxy or self etching?
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rick 918-S
post Jan 23 2014, 09:37 PM
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QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Jan 23 2014, 09:15 PM) *

Looks great, Rick! What kind of primer did you use on the inside of the long in the pics above: epoxy or self etching?


It's Radnor Galvanizing weld through primer. I get it from the Air Gas store where I get my tanks filled.
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rick 918-S
post Jan 23 2014, 09:57 PM
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Blew up the compressor tonight! Drats! I have to order a new pump tomorrow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I did get a bunch of stuff done since last night though.

Transferred the carpet holding buttons from the rusty strip of floor pan.

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Punched the holes in the floor brace.

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Welded the brace to the floor pan with my spot welder. Test fit the floor.

I'm leaving the outer clam shell off until I have the floor pan welded in. That way I can use my pinch spotter on the longitudinal like the factory. I cut in the floor plug hole. Most don't bother but this is a factory 6 and I want the work to look as close as I can to the factory.

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sixnotfour
post Jan 23 2014, 10:17 PM
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Thank god the Mercedes is gone , you're rippin now... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Jan 23 2014, 10:30 PM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jan 23 2014, 10:17 PM) *

Thank god the Mercedes is gone , you're rippin now... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)


I got a call from the e-coat place. It's ready to be picked up. My friend is picking it up and bringing it home to Cleveland until I finish Ben's car and his father in law's 911. So it is coming back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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vintage914racer
post Jan 23 2014, 11:27 PM
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It looks like its really coming along ow
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1972 914 2.0
post Jan 25 2014, 09:03 PM
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I've always wanted to see a 914 on cookie cutters, very nice indeed!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Jan 25 2014, 10:29 PM
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Sux with no compressor! Pump won't be here until next week. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Here's a couple photos anyway.


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Bartlett 914
post Jan 28 2014, 08:42 AM
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Hi Rick

I will be working on door gap issues on a car later this Spring. I am watching your comments on correcting these problems. I notice that you have the car support high off the ground at the wheels. The door gap is braced. It looks to me that the car would want to close at the top. The brace is stopping this. Is this how you intend to weld in the long repair? It seems a little odd to support the car this way when we are so concerned about warping/ twisting when welding. I assumed it would have been best to have the car fully supported. Can you explain this please.
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rick 918-S
post Jan 28 2014, 09:06 AM
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By supporting the car under the suspension you are spreading out the weight where the chassis naturally carries it. You are adding less stress and pulling force to an already weak point.

Here's an example: take a piece of 11" X 17" poster board. Set up 4 pencils at the center 1/3 square of the poster board to support it. You will notice the poster board will sag dramatically at both ended.

Move your pencil supports out 2" in all directions and you will see an dramatic decrease in the sag.

If your repairing a car with no suspension you still need to try to move your support points out to the strut and shock mount points. this will decrease your odds of introducing stress in the chassis from heat and weight.

Other considerations are having a chassis stretch at the long when you have removed a huge section. Any time you do this you really need to plan ahead and add a second brace. You could hold the length with a brace from the door latch bolt holes to the upper hinge. This will sort of add a triangle to the targa brace.
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vintage914racer
post Jan 28 2014, 01:24 PM
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Jan 28 2014, 07:06 AM) *

By supporting the car under the suspension you are spreading out the weight where the chassis naturally carries it. You are adding less stress and pulling force to an already weak point.

Here's an example: take a piece of 11" X 17" poster board. Set up 4 pencils at the center 1/3 square of the poster board to support it. You will notice the poster board will sag dramatically at both ended.

Move your pencil supports out 2" in all directions and you will see an dramatic decrease in the sag.

If your repairing a car with no suspension you still need to try to move your support points out to the strut and shock mount points. this will decrease your odds of introducing stress in the chassis from heat and weight.

Other considerations are having a chassis stretch at the long when you have removed a huge section. Any time you do this you really need to plan ahead and add a second brace. You could hold the length with a brace from the door latch bolt holes to the upper hinge. This will sort of add a triangle to the targa brace.


Interesting. You learn something every day.
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rick 918-S
post Jan 28 2014, 06:00 PM
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The compressor is back up and running. I installed a new pump last night. I was able to cut some sheet metal today and fab up a couple pieces I needed to close in the base of the rear bulkhead.

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rick 918-S
post Jan 28 2014, 10:10 PM
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Lower bulkhead engine side repaired.

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r_towle
post Jan 28 2014, 10:19 PM
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While you have the floor off, could you please take a picture of the bottom of the long, drivers side, right under the seat belt nut?
And then with the floor board in place??

I need to fix it, just like to see the assembly
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