OT - Need a structural Engineer or Architect, Anyone know of one in Ohio... Options

[tdgray]

I am in the planning stage of finishing my basement. I have a walkout basement (with no way to walkout yet) that when finished will hopefully add another 1,150 sq ft to my house as usable living space (total = 4750 sq ft). Going to put the usual things in it, pool table, bar, big screen TV etc.

I need to move some support posts to make the space flow better so I am sure that I will need a couple of beams engineered. More important than that I want to knock out the block wall so that I can put in about 14 feet of doors and windows. These will let lead out to my stone patio I put in last summer. I am sure that I will need some extra support but I am not sure how much, what spacing etc.

With that said does anyone know of a structural engineer or architect up in NE Ohio? If not how, without picking one out of the phonebook, how would I go about finding such a person? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

Thanks in advance.... you guys are a wealth of information. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

[URY914]

Try the American Institute of Architects website. They would problaly have a list of contacts in your area. Don't go for the big firms, they won't give you the time of day. Look for a single man or small firm which does residenial work.

Paul

[GWN7]

QUOTE (tdgray @ Dec 30 2004, 07:44 AM)

I need to move some support posts to make the space flow better so I am sure that I will need a couple of beams engineered. More important than that I want to knock out the block wall so that I can put in about 14 feet of doors and windows. These will let lead out to my stone patio I put in last summer. I am sure that I will need some extra support but I am not sure how much, what spacing etc. With that said does anyone know of a structural engineer or architect up in NE Ohio? If not how, without picking one out of the phonebook, how would I go about finding such a person? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) Thanks in advance.... you guys are a wealth of information. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

That's a lot of work.....you can remove support posts if the beam they are under is beefed up. That increases the load capacity and lengthens the span between posts. You might be able to put a steel beam along side the existing one to open up the floor plan. It all depends on how it's constructed now.

As to opening up the wall you will have to go to a steel header. It's the only way you will get enough head room to put in any doors. A wood beam spanning 14' would have to be at least 16" thick to support the upper story weight. You can put smaller steel beams in above the pockets where the windows are going to be instead of knocking down the whole wall.

Yep you need a architect (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

[Steve Thacker]

I'm a former custom home builder. If you can send me a crude layout and another with the planned changes. I'll tell you what you will need to support the area. Spanning 14' is a no brainer with a 2 X 12 with half inch plywood center. However I have to agree that you loose headroom. Since you are only removing pieces of the original block basement for doors and windows to egress outside ( I think that is what you are doing here right?).

The only thing needed is to support one section at a time under the joists. Then knock out the rough opening for each item to add, i.e window / door , then install a concrete termite header above the location where it butts up against the outside wall plate. This is more than adequate for exterior support. For internal 2X12 or 2x10 wood support beams that have steel supports under them, you need to support on either side of the beam against the joists and replace with a 4X8 or 10 steel I-beam. This is also depending on the span. If it is a long span 16' or more you need to go to a 12" I-beam to get away from a steel support beam in the middle of it. Doing post building beam changes is not a fun job to do, even if you already have knocked out a section of the block for a door egress to bring the beam into the basement. Those steel beams will require some ass to get it up and into the old beam location to go self supporting. Not to leave out getting around the joist bracing on the existing floor to get the old wood beam out. So, if you are only going say a span of 14' ft inside the structure of the basement, then a 4X10 steel I-beam should do the trick for a no post support. As far as the windows and " normal" doors a termite header (s) is the way to go on outside block walls. Hope this helps.....

See examples, the principals will be the same, even if your house is laid out a wee bit different.

[Steve Thacker]

and another

[tdgray]

Thanks guys, I knew I could count on you for some good info.

Thanks Steve for the advise. I am working the plans up as we speak if I get a chance I will post them (if I can get my scanner to work).

Paul - I will try the American Arc's web site, good thinking. I just want to make sure my ass is covered, professional help puts the little woman's mind at ease. My father and Uncle have been contractors for many years and I just don't trust 'em when they give you the old "sure that'll be fine just take that post out" line.

[r_towle]

Once you have the plans drawn up, I would suggest that you go to the local lumber yard and explain the you would like a microlam beam/gluelam beam...

The manufacturers of these products have licensed structural engineers on staff that provide a service for free.
They will size the required beam for you.

Most building dept. inspectors accept these because they are provided by a structural engineer.

Good luck.

Rich